Hey guys, I have the same issue with my 1997 ram 5.2. Is there a main fuse somewhere else that needs to be checked. also getting spark fuel and air...i hate electronics...uugghh

 

If you're getting spark and fuel, the ASD relay is fine.

 

WOW!!!! thats all i can say im thankful i found this forum before i started sinking money into it. i started looking and what do you know I HAVE THE CORRODED WIRE PROBLEM!!! fixed

 

Crazy 4x4RT,
Thanks again found link to this thread ...looks like a good place to start!
I have suspected bad wiring (fought that battle with my other 92 Dakota in a different place). I have a "flock" of older British cars ...didn't know Lucas "prince of darkness" made some of the components in my Dodge! After re-wiring the "LBC's" they work in 3 modes of Lucas electrics: OFF/DIM/FLICKER . but not the 4th one... IGNITE.

 

so i had the dieng problem .... soldered the wires tonight and then lokked inside the box where the asd relay is and i see three relays but the diagram labled asd relay's corrisponding relay receptor is missing ? truck was just dieng and not starting sometimes randonmly .... any thoughts? i know this thread is pretty old ......

 

Hello all, I am new here and need help pls. I am experiencing a similar problem with my 1991 Dodge Dakota 3.9 V6 described in this topic. The only difference is, my truck won't start if the ambient temp is 45F or colder (will turn over fine). Above 45F and it will start fine and run fine. If there was a break in the electrical or bad relay it wouldn't start at all.
The truck has 155k miles and in very good condition, Previous owner replaced the following:
coil, cap, rotor, pick-up coil, plugs, plug wires and ASD relay, checked fuses. no luck. (he was so mad he GAVE me the truck)

One thing I did notice, the ambient temp was warm and the truck started. I turned the truck off. I used the "KEY-ON, KEY-OFF" method to extract any codes in memory. The only codes were "12" (replaced battery) and "55" end of code cycle.
The next morning was very cold and thought I'd try starting the truck. Cranked over fine..... Well, no spark, no fuel = no start. OK, I'll try checking codes again. I noticed the "check engine light" or "maint. reqired" light wasn't showing at all when I turn the key on. So I left it alone most of the day until the ambient temp was warm. About 2:30pm I tried extracting codes again. This time the "check engine" and "maint. required" showed on the instrument, check engine light did it's thing for me with no new codes. and yes, the darn thing started right up! I tried this 3 days in a row. Cold morning=no start=no check engine light(with key on position). Warm afternoon=start right up=check engine light functioning(with key on position)
I'm in the dark on this one.
Thanks all
Peter

 

Sure sounds like the power splices. Did you check them?

 

Hey crazy4x4rt. Yeah, I opened the entire harness and checked ALL the splices and connectors. Everything was clean and no oxidation or corrosion. I was able to isolate the problem by means of leaving the truck in the shop over night. The next morning I arrived 6am. The truck wouldn't start as usual due to the cool ambient temp.
I hooked up a small electric heater and pointed to various areas under the hood (about 20 min each point). I also left the ignition key in the "ON" position so when the system "woke up" i would hear the relays kicking in. ECU was next in line for the heat test. Shure enough, about 5 min the relays started kicking in and out. I turned off the ignition switch and waited another 15 min. with the heater pointed at the ECU. The truck fired right up after 20 min of heat pointed at the ECU. Now, all connections have been inspected. I always thought when a computer gives up then thats it but not in this case. I proceeded to disassemble the ECU for inspection and possibly resolder or replace some radioshack componants. When I opened the cover I was surprised to see the entire board sealed with some kind of ruberized jello. So I guess the ECU can not be repaired? Looks like I'll have to buy another ECU!

 

Yup the PCM un-repairable. It is silicone, it is enclosed to keep it whether proof since it is under the hood. If you got a V8 it is best to get the Mopar High Performance PCM instead of stock style. 1 other possibility is the coolant temp sensor.

 

Hey crazy4x4rt. I changed the temp sensor too but didn't make any diff. My dodge is 3.9 v6.
I see there are swap for remanufactured PCM or send mine out for repair. Any trueth to that?