Let's make sure we get this straight.

1. Your float can physically be stuck against the side of the tank when the fuel pump was installed/replaced. The gauge will show completely full or empty and never move from its current position. This can easily happen while installing a pump.

2. Your sending unit is going bananas causing the gauge to bounce around and only show correct levels whenever it feels like it. The only thing to do would be to replace the fuel pump unit or try cleaning the exposed variable resistor at the base of the float arm. But I can't imagine anyone doing all the work of dropping the tank without just putting a new pump in.

3. I'm going out on a limb to say that there could be a problem with the gauge in your instrument cluster. Could be but not as likely as the other two explanations.

Maybe it was always that way since your dad bought it, or maybe he had someone replace the pump?

If this problem would fall into category 2, I would save the money to have it replaced. The pump is about to lay an egg. If category 1 describes the behavior, I would say always clear out the trip meter.

 

so if the gauge stays on e all the time, you're saying that the low fuel light will still come on when it is low? Also, i have heard that it may be a bad ground problem. I was told how to test it. there is a dark blue wire leading to it. cut it, strip the end and find a ground point and rake it across the ground. You will see the gauge slowly rise up toward full, if it is bad ground. Supposedly, Chrysler does opposite of GM and Ford with their wiring system on the fuel level, and it takes ground to activate the level reading. if it doesn't help, it is likely the sending unit in the tank. some times it gets stuck and has to be freed up manually. It isn't a priority on my list, considering I get 19-20 mpg and just keep track of mileage. I go through about 12 gallons in 250 miles, so I just fill it up every 300 miles. I used a total fuel system cleaner in my gas and it really made a difference.

 

I have seen a truck with the float stuck in the always full position and I have seen one with it stuck in the always empty position. The low fuel light was always on as well.

I have seen one that fell into the category 2 I described ^ and it did need a new pump within a year.

 

I had a problem with my 95 Dakota gas gauge. At first I thought it was the tank sensor but after changing it, no difference. I took apart the dash and could find nothing wrong. I found some loose grounds and that still didn't fix the problem. So I began to look for electrical problems in the wires. On the 95 Dakota, the brake light has a middle brake light in the tail gate. That electrical connection over time would get caught between the body and the tail gate and crack the outer casing so that the connection became exposed. Every time that I would press the brakes the connection would begin to get hot and melt the wires in the harness that goes to the brake lights. Those wires run through the same harness as the gas gauge. Over time the wires began to melt the coating on all the wires in the harness. So sometime the gas gauge would work and some times not. I found the problem right where the wires for the gas tank leave the harness and head toward the gas tank. I disconnected the rear middle brake light, and then I repaired the wires in the harness and now my gas gauge works fine. Don't know if this is your problem but it's worth a look.

 

I have a 94 Dakota with this same problem. Recently spent major bucks to have it fixed. Just the other day I returned it to the shop for the third time (4 times in all including original trip). Got some song & dance about how the Dakotas used 2 different tanks... and about how the replacement unit was a little different from the factory unit... etc, etc, etc..... I'm getting tired of this routine but the shop has a 3 year warranty on all work - so I guess I'll keep taking it back until they get it right. And finally, I don't know WHY this seems to be such a hard fix. Seems to me it's just a matter of replacing some parts. And apart from the physical labor - how hard could this be?? I LOVE this little truck, but this is getting exasperating. Oh, BTW - I also have a 93 Dakota with this same problem. Go figure........ FredT

 

They have a 15 and 22 gallon tank. That doesn't make a difference to the fuel pump which a combined unit with the fluid gauge and sending unit on it. The 22 gallon tank has a lobe off one end from the top half of the tank. There is a problem with the wires and connectors that I saw mentioned many times when I first joined and was looking to fix my fuel gauge. It turned out for me that I had placed the fuel pump in with the float facing the wrong way. Once I turned it so the arm of the float faced forward it works fine. Here is a TSB I found when I was researching it maybe this will help you? It shows two different part numbers for the sending unit. I have the 22 gallon tank and a used pump from a V8 and it works just fine.
http://dodgeram.info/tsb/1994/08-33-94.htm

 

Same problem, check the float sometime there gas in the float, will not notice it so get a new float this will clear up the problem with your gas gauge staying empty. I have 96 neon and that was my problem. What a problem not willing to buy a new pump, they come off they have latching that you pull off to get another float. Lucky me still had the old fuel pump with float. Good luck

 

22 gallon tank will fit directly in same spot as 15 gallon tank, takes same tank straps even, and same pump unit for either. been there done that,

 

The gas gauge quit months ago (empty reading). After being T-boned I had the body shop replace the fuel gauge sensor while the bed was pulled back. The gas tank was about 3/4 full at that time. They replaced the sensor with an after market unit which the first one did not register gas level. The second unit seemed to work OK. When I got the truck back the gauge indicated about 3/4 full. I filled the gas tank I got the usual over fill indication. However, the gas gauge now does not drop below about 3/4 full. I put over 14 gal of gas in the tank after the trip indicator read 185 mile. I read several of the gas tank threads and am sort of caught in the middle. Is there a reset or calibration that meeds to be done after a fuel sensor replacement? I hate to have to take it to the dealer and spend big bucks. Maybe the float is stuck?? I would pull the pump sensor, but, not sure what I would be getting into?

Lou K

 

I had the gauge issue. Anyway my problem was that the float arm was pointed in the wrong direction and hitting the side of the tank stopping movement. It should extend toward the front of the truck.
Otherwise there is a thread on the FAQ page that shows a guy took out his pump and repaired the sending unit the float arm attaches to. Or you can put in a new or used pump you know worked.