Rear Differential Oil Change
#21
11-13-2010, 10:09 PM
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I see you already performed this but I wanted to mention a couple quick things that I didn't see anyone else mention:
-You can change the rear-end fluid without removing the cover by using a siphon or similar tool.
-You could always pick up a new rear-end cover for cheap (online buying=always cheaper)and paint it well before you even put it on.
-I know a few people who use and like POR15(paint over rust). You can apply it right over rust after cleaning it off a little, it lasts for a LONG time, and certain types have a shiny finish.
-Don't forget to change your fluid on a level surface to make sure you have the proper fluid level when you check to see if the fluid is flush with the bottom of the drain hole.
-You could try cleaning the drain hole with some wet Brillo so the smooth surface gives whatever plug you use in the end (preferably new) a better seal to help stop leaks.
-You can change the rear-end fluid without removing the cover by using a siphon or similar tool.
-You could always pick up a new rear-end cover for cheap (online buying=always cheaper)and paint it well before you even put it on.
-I know a few people who use and like POR15(paint over rust). You can apply it right over rust after cleaning it off a little, it lasts for a LONG time, and certain types have a shiny finish.
-Don't forget to change your fluid on a level surface to make sure you have the proper fluid level when you check to see if the fluid is flush with the bottom of the drain hole.
-You could try cleaning the drain hole with some wet Brillo so the smooth surface gives whatever plug you use in the end (preferably new) a better seal to help stop leaks.
#22
11-13-2010, 10:59 PM
#23
11-14-2010, 12:34 AM
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#27
11-14-2010, 01:52 AM
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#28
11-15-2010, 02:51 PM
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If your also talking about what type of rear you have either standard or limited-slip, keep in mind the previous owner could have changed the internals from one type to another and you wouldn't know which you have unless you pop off the rear-end cover and take a look or stick a wire cam down on the hole. I found that out when my truck rear-end blew out over 3 years ago I wanted a limited-slip rather then just one-wheel-peel I had the option to either take the internals from the new rear and put it in the other or just change the entire rear. I opted to just change the entire rear since the drive train specialist said it would be faster and more cost efficient to just change the entire thing.
#29
11-25-2010, 12:37 AM
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1) The 1995 FSM recommends using 80W-90 gear oil. I assume there is no difference for '93. When I filled my differentials, I actually used Lucas Oil Stabilizer. It said on the bottle you can use 100% capacity in differentials, and it has worked out great for me. Also, if you have a limited slip differential, be sure to add 4 ounces of friction additive. As for capacity, its 2.1L, but instead of worrying about measuring it out, just fill it up to the bottom of the fill hole as long as you're on flat ground.
2) I would start by scrubbing it down with car wash soap and a green scotchbrite pad. This will get the oil and dirt off of it as well as start scuffing it up. Then, use 220-320 grit sandpaper, or if you have air or power tools, use a roloc fiber disc. I would recommend just spraying it with black rustoleum spray can paint.
3) That rubber plug is probably dry rotted. Replace it when you get the oil and while you're prepping it for paint, be sure to clean up the hole.
2) I would start by scrubbing it down with car wash soap and a green scotchbrite pad. This will get the oil and dirt off of it as well as start scuffing it up. Then, use 220-320 grit sandpaper, or if you have air or power tools, use a roloc fiber disc. I would recommend just spraying it with black rustoleum spray can paint.
3) That rubber plug is probably dry rotted. Replace it when you get the oil and while you're prepping it for paint, be sure to clean up the hole.
#30
11-25-2010, 12:42 AM
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