hey all, have read and read but havnt seen this one. Bought 89 Sport from Backyard, err mechanic. Supposedly 3 speed Auto, ya right. Drove it 60 miles and started first with the brake fluid leak. Fixed brakes, new line master cylinder, etc and then gunked engine. Drove it 10 miles and it quit at idle. waited five minutes started it , loked at bride and said, Yep he was a good mechanic. Pulled fuel filter, so clogged ya could barely blow thru it. Ran two gallons of fuel into fuel can before reconnecting new filter, installed puriolator small see thru at throttle body to assure no fuel supply problems. O.K. next problem, again no spark no fuel, did the splice thing checked all fuses subscribed to the online service and learned. Tested all the breakers on the drivers fender and cleaned up the wiring mess. Did the tests with ignition on and start, never get power to the anti desil relay when in start position. exercised relays at battery with small jumpers. Now I have fuel and no spark. Disconnected map sensor nothing, replaced hall plate cap plugs rotor and coil also. still no spark. No codes from CPU. with the key trick. Can not find a diagram of the cpu connector to look for contiunity from wherever my instructions are. Borrowed new CPU from Napa( Dealer friend over 30 years), still nothing either cpu. Also interior lights wirked one time with door open. Radio heater lights all work fine. Fuse panel inside broken time delay relay but no one knows the replacement part number, and i can't find an explination of what it does. oh yes have stripped the harness stripped to the splices and all is good there. The battery tested weak so I replaced that also. Anyone have any suggestions, other than a few gallons of gas an empty lot and a match?

 

Now the bride has read about the wheels falling off of the front and is worried about that, this is her truck to carry our two precious sweet little dogs, Anika, German Shephared, and Mr. Nice Guy, Staffordshire Terrior( in short Big Pit Bull.)

 

For a wiring diagram, follow this link: http://rapidshare.com/files/20549398...ota_wiring.pdf
For the PCM (SBEC) pin-outs, see page 8W-102 (page 102 of the document).
**REMEMBER-- ONLY DISCONNECT THE WIRING HARNESS TO THE PCM AFTER THE ENGINE HAS BEEN OFF AND THE KEY OUT OF THE IGNITION FOR AT LEAST 30 SECONDS**

At all points in the continuity checks below, wiggle/jiggle or otherwise move about, the immediate length of wire, as well as nearby harness.
1) Disconnect both battery cables, remove the auto shutdown relay, and disconnect the connector from the PCM/SBEC.
2) Test for continuity between pin 3 (contant battery input) and the positive battery connector. There should be very low resistance.
3) Test for continuity between pin 3 and the negative battery conector. There should be extremely high resistance (typically shown "OL" on digital multimeter display)
4) Test for continuity between pin 4 and the like-colored wires on: distributor, MAP sensor, coolant sensor, throttle position sensor, and, if possible, oxygen sensor. Again, there should be very low resistance.
5) Test for continuity between pin 5 and negative battery connector. Pin 11 and pin 12 and negative battery connector as well. All three should have very low resistance.
6) Test for continuity between pin 6 and like-colored wires on: throttle position sensor, and MAP sensor. There should be very low resistance. Check for continuity between pin 6 and ground. There should be extremely high resistance.
7) Test for continuity between pin 7 and like-colored wire on the distributor. There should be very low resistance. Than, check for continuity between pin 7 and ground. There should be extremely high resistance.
8) Test for continuty between pin 8 and auto shutdown relay output. There should be very low resistance. Than, check for continuity between pin 8 and ground. There shyould be extremely high resistance.
9) Keep battery disconnected. Put key in ignition. Turn to "RUN" position. Test for continuity between battery positive connector and pin 9. There should be very low resistance. Than, move switch to "START" position, continuity should still stay very low. Turn switch to OFF, and there should than be extremely high resistance.
10) Redo step #9, except test for resistance between battery NEGATIVE connector and pin 9. At all times, there should be extremly high resistance.
11) Test for resistance between pin #15 and like-colored wire on the #2 fuel injector. Should be very low resistance. Than, test resistance to ground, and it should be extremely high.
12) Repeat step 11, only it will be pin #16 and injector #1.
13) Test for continuity between pin 19 and negative (like-colored) connector on the ignition coil. Should be extremely low resistance.
14) Test for continuity between pin 22 and like-colored wire on throttle position sensor. Should be very low resistance.
15) Test for continuity between pin 24 and like-colored wire on distributor. Should be very low resistance.
16) Test for continuity between pin 51 and auto-shutdown "ground" terminal. There should be very low resistance.
17) Test for continuity between the auto-shut down relay output and the ignition coil positive connector. There should be very low resistance.
*You can now reconnect any connectors, reinstall the automatic shutdown relay, and reconnect the battery.*

After you are done, post back with the results. It may seem tedious, but this is testing a lot of the wiring, which is better than swapping out more parts that might not solve anything.

 

Thank you, have some instructions from another site but do not have a diagram that shows the pin terminal numbers. Another thing that I missed was the new distributor lead has three pins, however there are not three wires in the connector so I made an assumption that this was for multiuse for other wiring to make the distributor fit other series and wiring of the 3.9 Today I am stopping at the Napa and looking at a Hall effects for the 89 and see if it has the same thre pins or just two pins. Refering to changing parts, THE GENTLEMAN," that we bought this from was such a fantastic tech and considering the age of the components I felt it was wiser to replace a lot of items on the truck rather than wait for the breakdown on the innerstate. LOL the local Dodge Dealer position on this one is I have to buy a new control module from dodge because the rebuilt ones from elsewhere are not reliable. Also the Service Writer at dodge here set an appointment to bring it in so they could test it, but I know a tech that works there and he told me they did not have equipment to test this one so dont waist the 98 bucks.( Talk about a strech to bring in a buck). One test that I did was to check the terminal of the ASD when turning on the ignition switch. The test failed no power to that terminal, 12 volts to the other side as specified. Heck I dont even know if this guy had the relays coneected to the proper terminals at this point. Another thing I did was to pull each relay and connect via jumpers to the battery exercising the relays for proper operation while reading the normally open then the normally closed terminals with a conrunity meter. Although the relay is clicking the reading never changed. Although I use a fluke Meter for that test that I use Daily, ( I am an electrical Tech by trade), I went to good old radio Shack, bought a multimeter and retested. Still the same results.