Well I had dual universal 14/16 in electric fans installed already, but the mounts I built gave way and the fan gouged a good hole in the radiator. I got the radiator repaired and decided to try out the famous Ford Taurus Electric fan swap. It has 2 settings, Low 2500CFM High 4500CFM. I think my old 16in fan was 1,500cfm alone. So the Taurus fan by numbers is better than both together. I got my new/used fan from my local U-Pull for $23. I bought an extra one just in case I need a 2nd one.

If anyone wants to know here is the interchange for that fan.
Low 2500CFM
High 4500CFM

FORD TAURUS GL (1992 - 1995)
FORD TAURUS L 1992
FORD TAURUS LX (1992 - 1995)
FORD TAURUS SE 1995
FORD THUNDERBIRD LX (1994 - 1997)
LINCOLN CONTINENTAL (1988 - 1990)
LINCOLN CONTINENTAL EXECUTIVE (1991 - 1994)
LINCOLN CONTINENTAL SIGNATURE (1988 - 1994)
MERCURY SABLE (1992 - 1995)

There is a great chart which I can not find on CFM needed per engine size. But a quick general rule I quickly found is:
1,250 CFM for a 4-cylinder
2,000 CFM for a 6-cylinder
3,500 CFM for a 8-cylinder

Edit: This setup works good but on the 100 deg + days with AC on the temp gauge can start to get a little higher then I would like, not overheating but not as cool as wanted. I don't want to know what it would be like while towing a very heavy load in this high heat, I don't think it would adequate.

Here is a quick chart of what size fans per vehicle application.
http://www.haydenauto.com/upload/Hay...ctric-fans.pdf

Here is the 95 Taurus Fan.


Here is my old dual fan setup.


Here is the mounts and fan shroud mounted on the radiator. The lower mounts I just make a slot for them to slid into and hold them tight. The top two I bolted it down, which is how the Ford had it mounted.


Here is the fan installed on the radiator.


When I took off the radiator I noticed more problems. First is the Harmonic Balancer was starting to separate. Next was the external transmission cooler had a pinhole size leak and needs replacing. Next is the fans I mounted in front of the AC condenser were getting loose and needed re-bracketing.

I got the Harmonic Balancer replaced. Next is the other projects. I will post up pics of the radiator and new fan installed in the truck as I go. For others I will do a quick write up on the mechanical fan modification later.

 

Cool. How is the fan operated?

 

It ought to work well for you Crazy, I've had a MarkVIII fan mounted in an Off-Topic 4x4 for a few years and it is a *beast* on high speed
The Mark VIII has the same drive motor with a slightly bigger shroud, the Taurus/Sable unit the lurkers want to find came in cars with the 3.8 V6, smaller engines got a smaller fan.
My only problems came from trying to use a cheapo thermal switch for the thing, the fan motor draw will spike into the 40 to 50 amp range from a dead stop, even with a 40 amp Bosch cube on the controller it died a horrible death , You don't want to skimp on wiring, I used 10 gauge for hot and ground when I wired it.
I'm running mine manually switched off of a 250 amp rated golf cart relay right now, no more hiccups there

 

I plan on using two 40 amp relays for the high and one 40 amp on the low. For now I'll have the fan relays wired to a toggle switch inside the cab. I want a good control box but don't have the money, this and the SAS is eating all of it. Upgrades down the line.

 

I have the mark v111 mounted in my Dakota. I originally started off with a 40 amp relay and a Hayden thermostat fan controller. I wired it with 12 gauge wire. The relays would last 4-8 months before they would burn out. The wires got hot enough to melt the plastic covering. The main problem is that the fan motor can draw up to 100 amps on startup and 40 amps continuous.

About 6 months ago I got tired of changing relays and upgraded the system. I put in a continuous duty silver contact solenoid rated at 100 amps continuous draw and up to 200 amps surge. The solenoid was about 40.00 and it’s worked like a champ. I also went with 10 gauge wire and a 200 amp auto resetting breaker in the battery to solenoid wire. I’m still using the Hayden controller to power the solenoid. The controller has a sensor that screws into the water jacket and is adjustable. I have it set to come on at about 195 and off at 180. It also turns the fan on whenever the ac is turned on.

That fan motor looks the same as the Mark v111 and it’s a beast when it comes to current draw as well as cooling.

 

Like mentioned above a continuous duty DC contactor/solenoid is a better choice than relays in this case.

You should be able to pick one up at Napa.

 

Cool. I will look for a solenoid to control the high. A starter solenoid should be cheep and can handle more than enough amps, but can it handle continued use vs. momentary engagement is the only question. For the low setting do you guys think a simple relay will do or another solenoid?


As an update I got the fan installed on the truck. Here is a pic.


Here is the trashed Harmonic Balancer.


Here is the new transmission cooler, I didn't mount it straight. LOL Oh well it won't hurt the performance of it.


For anyone who does this swap I strongly suggest to cut off the large nut from the fan clutch and thread it back on to keep the water pump pulley secure. It is pressed on but I say it is good insurance.

 

I tried a ford starter solenoid out of the 'goodie box' first thing after the off-brand Hayden fried. It worked for a few weeks, not up to the continuous draw, NAPA fixed me up with the golf cart unit on it now(around $35 in '08). I may still have the stock number around, I'll post it if it turns up today.
I'm only using high speed on mine right now, didn't have any time for tinkering, but I assume you'll want something a bit heftier than a Bosch cube on the low speed side too....
If my free time continues I'm planning to set mine up to run off of an OEM switch in the lower radiator hose, you can find a bunch of good info on these setups if your willing to wade through the BS of the boy-racer crowd over in mustang and camaro forums, Google is your friend

 

Crazy – You’ve got the same clearance I have between the fan motor and the pulleys, almost none! Your concern about whether a starter solenoid will hold up to continuous duty is valid. I had the same experience as GEZN2 when I tried a starter solenoid years ago on another setup that required continuous duty. I fried it as well.

This motor does draw some serious amps at startup. When I was doing the swap to 10 gauge, and the solenoid, I wired the setup with 10 gauge wire and tried running it with the 40 amp relay. With the heavier wire the motor could draw its full amps at startup and I fried 3 relays instantly. I had to switch it back to 12 gauge till I could pick up the solenoid. The 12 gauge wire was getting hot and melting but it was also limiting the draw and protecting the relay. When my fan starts up it looks like someone cut the wire to my volt\battery dash gauge. After a few seconds it does climb back up.

It kind of sucks but the wiring setup for this fan will probably be more expensive then what you paid for the fan.

 

If it were me to give some margin of error I'd run 8 gauge wiring and a Trombetta Bear contactor #114-1211-010. Neither would be the cheapest option but you for sure would not worry about melted wiring or relays.