not getting full 12v at coil
#1
not getting full 12v at coil
I have a 95 ext. cab 4x4 dak with 3.9, I drove truck into the garage and thats where it still sits 2weeks later, I replace the timing chain and tensioner got it all back together and now it wont start, I noticed that i didnt hear the fuel pump kick on when i turn the key on, so I got online and was reading about the splice issues, checked them they are good, then I went to the power distribution box swapped the starter and fuel pump relays same results then swapped the auto shut down relay, same results, then I was reading about crank/camshaft sensors so I checked for spark and I am not getting any, but when I check the voltage at the coil connector it fluxuates between 6.5 and 4.3volts on both wires, I thought it should be at 12 volts but could be wrong. Went on to the computer out on the pass side inner fender and didnt really know what to start with there but what I found was if I unplug the computer and plug it back in the first time I turn the key on the fuel pump kicks on but will not kick the 2nd time and so on. Suggestions Please. Thanks
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#7
Alright, I went ahead and redone all the splices I am getting voltage through the red/white wire, and when the key is on I get voltage through a dark blue wire. While redoing the splices I found that there is a splice that has blue/yel wires and I hooked a test light from the ground to it and when the key is on the asd relay functions on its own. Anyone have a wiring schematic? I am leaning toward ground issue now, any suggestions or thoughts? Thanks
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#9
Well I got the truck back up and running, when I reinstalled the alternator I didn't hook both ground wires back up so the computer ground was tucked under the alternator and I couldnt see it, I got it hooked and it fired right up to hear a lifter noise ( man was I p*ssed) so back apart it came and I found some little bearing pins just laying in the valley (Just great). Is there any tricks to pulling the lifters without having to remove the heads?