Got a Rotted Rear Bumper?
#1
10-24-2016, 06:01 PM
Got a Rotted Rear Bumper?
If you have a rotted rear bumper, you have basically four options. You can ignore it, you can find a not rotted one at a junkyard (good luck), you can custom build a bumper, or you can do what I did for about $130.
I purchased a Westin Universal Fit bumper. This Fey Diamondstep 63000 in particular. Westin offers mounting kits for many vehicles including the 1st gen Dakota. The kits are in the range of $50 I believe. I decided to see if I could save $50 by modifying the stock mounts. I guess the mounts are made of galvanized steel which is why they didn't rot out along with the bumper.
As it turns out, you can use the stock mounts with the Westin bumper by drilling only 1 hole on the truck side of each mount to relocate it forward. No bending, cutting, or welding required. No modifying the Westin bumper, no modifying the frame. As you will see, the bumper sticks out more than ideal, but to push it forward any more than that, I would have to cut slots in the bottom of the bumper so it slides past my Curt trailer hitch. Additionally, it would require further cutting and drilling of the mounts so they don't hit the leaf spring hangers. None of this would be too difficult, but I decided to do the bare minimum. In the future I may improve the fit.
Unmodified bumper side mounts:
Modified truck side mounts, the upper hole was drilled.
This was before paint of course.
I purchased a Westin Universal Fit bumper. This Fey Diamondstep 63000 in particular. Westin offers mounting kits for many vehicles including the 1st gen Dakota. The kits are in the range of $50 I believe. I decided to see if I could save $50 by modifying the stock mounts. I guess the mounts are made of galvanized steel which is why they didn't rot out along with the bumper.
As it turns out, you can use the stock mounts with the Westin bumper by drilling only 1 hole on the truck side of each mount to relocate it forward. No bending, cutting, or welding required. No modifying the Westin bumper, no modifying the frame. As you will see, the bumper sticks out more than ideal, but to push it forward any more than that, I would have to cut slots in the bottom of the bumper so it slides past my Curt trailer hitch. Additionally, it would require further cutting and drilling of the mounts so they don't hit the leaf spring hangers. None of this would be too difficult, but I decided to do the bare minimum. In the future I may improve the fit.
Unmodified bumper side mounts:
Modified truck side mounts, the upper hole was drilled.
This was before paint of course.
Last edited by tbugden; 10-24-2016 at 06:30 PM.
#2
10-24-2016, 06:38 PM
Looks good. I've replaced my rear bumper twice. Once was a rust free unit from a vacation to va. Beach. But it had a decent dent in it and I just so happy to find a new old stock aftermarket factory bumper on cl for $40. The only thing that's not OEM on it is the bumper steps. Instead of the ram logo, it has a R in a cirlce.
But even that will be coming off next year and I'm going to buy this:
Look at this on eBay http://www.ebay.com/itm/171963139515
Comes already welded together with d rings and Reese hitch. It'll just need to be widened some to fit. But can't beat that price for an even more sturdy bumper with recovery points.
But even that will be coming off next year and I'm going to buy this:
Look at this on eBay http://www.ebay.com/itm/171963139515
Comes already welded together with d rings and Reese hitch. It'll just need to be widened some to fit. But can't beat that price for an even more sturdy bumper with recovery points.
