Leaf springs
#3
#4
Well, the V8/V6 isn't the big deal; the GVWR is. A higher GVWR would be stiffer. (It may also screw up the weight dependent proportioning valve; how badly that worries you is up to you. Wouldn't worry me that much, I don't plan to be driving where I'd have to worry about the rear end locking up.)
As to "Where", I cheat; we have a spring shop that's been in business in my town since the 1940's (!!!) so I'd just go there and have them rearch / rebuild / replace. (For more money they can even use teflon between the leafs, making a much smoother riding rear spring over the stock rubber. But do notice the 'more money' part ... it ain't cheap!)
HOWEVER - RockAuto does list Dayton springs as I type this at $165 approx. Don't know if that's a single or a pair, though.
There are other sources, but that's a good first cut.
RwP
As to "Where", I cheat; we have a spring shop that's been in business in my town since the 1940's (!!!) so I'd just go there and have them rearch / rebuild / replace. (For more money they can even use teflon between the leafs, making a much smoother riding rear spring over the stock rubber. But do notice the 'more money' part ... it ain't cheap!)
HOWEVER - RockAuto does list Dayton springs as I type this at $165 approx. Don't know if that's a single or a pair, though.
There are other sources, but that's a good first cut.
RwP
#5
Well, the V8/V6 isn't the big deal; the GVWR is. A higher GVWR would be stiffer. (It may also screw up the weight dependent proportioning valve; how badly that worries you is up to you. Wouldn't worry me that much, I don't plan to be driving where I'd have to worry about the rear end locking up.)
As to "Where", I cheat; we have a spring shop that's been in business in my town since the 1940's (!!!) so I'd just go there and have them rearch / rebuild / replace. (For more money they can even use teflon between the leafs, making a much smoother riding rear spring over the stock rubber. But do notice the 'more money' part ... it ain't cheap!)
HOWEVER - RockAuto does list Dayton springs as I type this at $165 approx. Don't know if that's a single or a pair, though.
There are other sources, but that's a good first cut.
RwP
As to "Where", I cheat; we have a spring shop that's been in business in my town since the 1940's (!!!) so I'd just go there and have them rearch / rebuild / replace. (For more money they can even use teflon between the leafs, making a much smoother riding rear spring over the stock rubber. But do notice the 'more money' part ... it ain't cheap!)
HOWEVER - RockAuto does list Dayton springs as I type this at $165 approx. Don't know if that's a single or a pair, though.
There are other sources, but that's a good first cut.
RwP
#6
Heh.
You really need to pick up the factory service manual.
But.
There's a proportioning valve connected to one of the rear springs; when there's more weight, it allows more brake fluid pressure through the lines to the rear brakes, to keep it from locking up when empty vis not braking at all when fully loaded.
As to the weight; check the door sticker for your GVWR and see how that compares to the spring weight.
Another suggestion: While replacing, install new bushings in the rear shackles. I'm fond of the Energy Suspension or Prothane bushings myself, to help firm up the rear end; but it's your truck, your choice as to rubber, poly, or possibly finding delrin or solid bushings.
RwP
You really need to pick up the factory service manual.
But.
There's a proportioning valve connected to one of the rear springs; when there's more weight, it allows more brake fluid pressure through the lines to the rear brakes, to keep it from locking up when empty vis not braking at all when fully loaded.
As to the weight; check the door sticker for your GVWR and see how that compares to the spring weight.
Another suggestion: While replacing, install new bushings in the rear shackles. I'm fond of the Energy Suspension or Prothane bushings myself, to help firm up the rear end; but it's your truck, your choice as to rubber, poly, or possibly finding delrin or solid bushings.
RwP
#7
Heh.
You really need to pick up the factory service manual.
But.
There's a proportioning valve connected to one of the rear springs; when there's more weight, it allows more brake fluid pressure through the lines to the rear brakes, to keep it from locking up when empty vis not braking at all when fully loaded.
As to the weight; check the door sticker for your GVWR and see how that compares to the spring weight.
Another suggestion: While replacing, install new bushings in the rear shackles. I'm fond of the Energy Suspension or Prothane bushings myself, to help firm up the rear end; but it's your truck, your choice as to rubber, poly, or possibly finding delrin or solid bushings.
RwP
You really need to pick up the factory service manual.
But.
There's a proportioning valve connected to one of the rear springs; when there's more weight, it allows more brake fluid pressure through the lines to the rear brakes, to keep it from locking up when empty vis not braking at all when fully loaded.
As to the weight; check the door sticker for your GVWR and see how that compares to the spring weight.
Another suggestion: While replacing, install new bushings in the rear shackles. I'm fond of the Energy Suspension or Prothane bushings myself, to help firm up the rear end; but it's your truck, your choice as to rubber, poly, or possibly finding delrin or solid bushings.
RwP
Trending Topics
#8
That should be close enough.
On my 1988, it's on the frame, but with a "hook" to the front of the driver's side rear leaf spring.
Your truck might not have one; if so, then it's a concern you don't have that I do *grins*
Here's a couple of pics of my valve, complete with the link to the front of the driver's side rear leaf.
RwP
On my 1988, it's on the frame, but with a "hook" to the front of the driver's side rear leaf spring.
Your truck might not have one; if so, then it's a concern you don't have that I do *grins*
Here's a couple of pics of my valve, complete with the link to the front of the driver's side rear leaf.
RwP
#9
That should be close enough.
On my 1988, it's on the frame, but with a "hook" to the front of the driver's side rear leaf spring.
Your truck might not have one; if so, then it's a concern you don't have that I do *grins*
Here's a couple of pics of my valve, complete with the link to the front of the driver's side rear leaf.
RwP
On my 1988, it's on the frame, but with a "hook" to the front of the driver's side rear leaf spring.
Your truck might not have one; if so, then it's a concern you don't have that I do *grins*
Here's a couple of pics of my valve, complete with the link to the front of the driver's side rear leaf.
RwP
#10
Then again, my concern is not your concern *grins*
So forget that item.
With that concern not there, then you should not have any problem.
Be sure to get new U-bolts also; and this is a perfect time to replace the old tired rear shocks.
May I suggest a firm set, maybe Ranchos?
(I've got some KYB GR2's to go on my truck; then again, I don't squat the rear of mine much.)
RwP
So forget that item.
With that concern not there, then you should not have any problem.
Be sure to get new U-bolts also; and this is a perfect time to replace the old tired rear shocks.
May I suggest a firm set, maybe Ranchos?
(I've got some KYB GR2's to go on my truck; then again, I don't squat the rear of mine much.)
RwP