Torque converter replacement. 1996 Dakota slt
#1
#2
Put truck on jackstands.
Remove rear driveshaft.
Drain fluid from trans. (trust me, you want to do this BEFORE you drop the trans.....)
Support trans on jack.
Disconnect shift linkage, tv cable, and any electrical connectors.
Remove starter motor, and dustshield from bellhousing.
Remove torque converter to flexplate bolts.
Remove bellhousing bolts.
Remove rear crossmember. (trans should now be supported on just the jack.)
Gonna have to pull the trans back a couple inches, to get it to disengage from the dowel pins on the bellhousing.
Lower trans.
Pull it out from under truck.
Remove rear driveshaft.
Drain fluid from trans. (trust me, you want to do this BEFORE you drop the trans.....)
Support trans on jack.
Disconnect shift linkage, tv cable, and any electrical connectors.
Remove starter motor, and dustshield from bellhousing.
Remove torque converter to flexplate bolts.
Remove bellhousing bolts.
Remove rear crossmember. (trans should now be supported on just the jack.)
Gonna have to pull the trans back a couple inches, to get it to disengage from the dowel pins on the bellhousing.
Lower trans.
Pull it out from under truck.
#3
Thanks
Put truck on jackstands.
Remove rear driveshaft.
Drain fluid from trans. (trust me, you want to do this BEFORE you drop the trans.....)
Support trans on jack.
Disconnect shift linkage, tv cable, and any electrical connectors.
Remove starter motor, and dustshield from bellhousing.
Remove torque converter to flexplate bolts.
Remove bellhousing bolts.
Remove rear crossmember. (trans should now be supported on just the jack.)
Gonna have to pull the trans back a couple inches, to get it to disengage from the dowel pins on the bellhousing.
Lower trans.
Pull it out from under truck.
Remove rear driveshaft.
Drain fluid from trans. (trust me, you want to do this BEFORE you drop the trans.....)
Support trans on jack.
Disconnect shift linkage, tv cable, and any electrical connectors.
Remove starter motor, and dustshield from bellhousing.
Remove torque converter to flexplate bolts.
Remove bellhousing bolts.
Remove rear crossmember. (trans should now be supported on just the jack.)
Gonna have to pull the trans back a couple inches, to get it to disengage from the dowel pins on the bellhousing.
Lower trans.
Pull it out from under truck.
#4
#5
#6
They are all pretty much the same when it comes to changing 'large' parts. Everything works pretty much the same way.
#7
Re-aren't there 16 of them
Amazing that they think an engine needs two plugs per cylinder, but I suppose hemi(s) have one of the most efficient fuel to power ratios of any V8 ever put on the market and it does mean that if one plug fails to spark there is a backup plug.
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#8
its for emissions. There's one on exhaust and one on intake. Ford 4 cylinders used to have them. If one plug fails, it needs changed. Theres no back up for it.
#9
Actually, while ford may have done that on their 4 cylinders, dodge did not. Dodge first implemented the twin plug design when they started making the third generation Hemis, this burned the fuel in the chamber faster and more consistently then one plug and while it did admittedly improve emissions, that was not the intended goal. Sorry warford but if there is one thing I know it's American made V8 engines. Look up their history if you like, it will tell you that the third generation blocks use a coil on plug distributionless ignition and that they had two plugs per chamber. I appreciate the insight into Ford's small engine tech though because I honestly did not know they where set up that way.
#10