1996 dakota will not start when warm
#1
1996 dakota will not start when warm
I have a 1996 dakota 3.9 v6. Manual tranny.
will start cold. Will run perfect til shut off at operating temp. Will not start back.
was parked for 6 months.
we have already replaced the:
plugs
wires
dist cap
rotor
cam position sensor
crank position sensor
fuel pump
idle air control valve
what are we missing?
thanks in advance.
will start cold. Will run perfect til shut off at operating temp. Will not start back.
was parked for 6 months.
we have already replaced the:
plugs
wires
dist cap
rotor
cam position sensor
crank position sensor
fuel pump
idle air control valve
what are we missing?
thanks in advance.
#2
#4
it maintains 50 psi at all times. Using fuel pressure gauge. After relieving pressure it returns. Not sure if injectors are active at startup at operating temp. It also has a new radiator, water pump and thermostat installed.
#7
As mentioned, check for spark. Borrow or buy a set of NOID lights (most of the bigger auto parts chains will "loan" them to you - you buy them, but get your money back when you return them, on their version of the Loan-A-Tool program, for the units ON said LAT program) and verify you're getting injector fire.
Before I REPLACED the PCM, I'd disconnect the negative battery cable, then five or six times take the connector(s) off and put them back on, then reconnect the negative battery cable and see if that helped any. It may be as simple as corrosion that gets worse when it gets warm.
RwP
Before I REPLACED the PCM, I'd disconnect the negative battery cable, then five or six times take the connector(s) off and put them back on, then reconnect the negative battery cable and see if that helped any. It may be as simple as corrosion that gets worse when it gets warm.
RwP
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#8
As mentioned, check for spark. Borrow or buy a set of NOID lights (most of the bigger auto parts chains will "loan" them to you - you buy them, but get your money back when you return them, on their version of the Loan-A-Tool program, for the units ON said LAT program) and verify you're getting injector fire.
Before I REPLACED the PCM, I'd disconnect the negative battery cable, then five or six times take the connector(s) off and put them back on, then reconnect the negative battery cable and see if that helped any. It may be as simple as corrosion that gets worse when it gets warm.
RwP
Before I REPLACED the PCM, I'd disconnect the negative battery cable, then five or six times take the connector(s) off and put them back on, then reconnect the negative battery cable and see if that helped any. It may be as simple as corrosion that gets worse when it gets warm.
RwP
will give it a try. Thanks.
#9
As mentioned, check for spark. Borrow or buy a set of NOID lights (most of the bigger auto parts chains will "loan" them to you - you buy them, but get your money back when you return them, on their version of the Loan-A-Tool program, for the units ON said LAT program) and verify you're getting injector fire.
Before I REPLACED the PCM, I'd disconnect the negative battery cable, then five or six times take the connector(s) off and put them back on, then reconnect the negative battery cable and see if that helped any. It may be as simple as corrosion that gets worse when it gets warm.
RwP
Before I REPLACED the PCM, I'd disconnect the negative battery cable, then five or six times take the connector(s) off and put them back on, then reconnect the negative battery cable and see if that helped any. It may be as simple as corrosion that gets worse when it gets warm.
RwP
#10
If they're not getting power, you trace the wiring back to where they don't get power. In a Dodge, that's upstream to the Auto Shutdown Relay; pull it, bypass it, and see if you have power. If so, you then see if it's the relay failed or the signal from the PCM; easiest is to swap the relay. (On my 1988 it's a Bosch style relay; I have a few I bought at $1 each, so easy to swap.)
RwP
RwP