Can you post pictures of the harness and other stuff?

 

Both harnesses are wrapped already. I actually just finished wrapping them. I'll post pics of them before I put the plastic covers back on but as of right now it's just wires wrapped very tightly in electrical tape. If u have questions though I can probably point you in the right direction.

 

I just want to see the full harness so I can determine what I might be getting into if I decide to pull it and do what you have done.

 

We'll it's 2 harnesses. The first comes out of the pcm works it's way around to the injectors, alternator, injectors again, batter cables, throttle body, then down to your distributor, crank sensor, o2 sensor, then trans and transfer case. The other harness starts at the fuse box, goes under wiper tank, then the cab plug, cuts over to the pass side if truck where there's 2 grey plugs where it connects to the first harness. It took about an hour and a half total to pull both harnesses. I'll post some pics of the harness is tomorrow once I have all the plastic back on. Here's what you will need if you decide to do it.
1. Soldering iron
2. 60/40 rosin solder wire
3. Wire cutters/ strippers
4. Various electrical connectors
5. About 150 ft of electrical tape
6. 2ft of 18g wire
7. 2ft of 16g wire
8. Box cutter or exacto knife
9. 1/8 in 3:1 shrink ratio heat shrink tubing
10 1/4 in 3:1 shrink ratio heat shrink tubing
11. 1/2 in wide masking tape
12. Sharpie
13 zip ties
14. Patience, lots of patience

 

I will say that it will be worth it. Dodge used hockey tape, which holds moisture, to wrap there soldered connections. Completely stupid. Soldering them the right way and heat shrink in each soldered joint gives you something that's sealed against all weather. Dodge barely wrapped the harness with electrical tape and it's so old by now that it really doesn't do much good holding the wires in place. Completely re wrapping the harnesses gives you something you can run through a mud hole with no worries of it shorting out. On top of that you can find and fix any bad spots in the harness so 20 years from now the wire harness will work like it's still brand new. I live in Michigan, salt and snow in the winter will kill wires, plus I like to trail ride. So I wanted to do it the right way so I don't get stranded somewhere. My truck has lots of rust and 200k miles, I'm fixing it piece by piece. First point of attack was getting it running reliably which the harness work will do for sure. Might pull the body harness for all the lights and do them to lol.

 

While doing the headlights, consider adding a relay harness that pulls its power straight (through a fuse!) from the battery, on 14ga or 12ga wire.

It will help your headlights stay nice and bright; and it will help keep the headlight switch from resembling Mount Vesuvius *grins*

RwP

 

My lights are gonna end up all getting switched over to a toggle switch or two. I gotta replace my radio and I'll have that nice little gap where the storage compartment should be when switching to a single din radio. Thinking a nice flat piece of aluminum with toggle switches would fill that up nicely

 

BTW a good idea is to use the heat shrink electrical tape on the harness. Gives a better tighter seal. My local stores didn't have any so I stuck with the plain old electrical tape

 

Here's the pdc harness
Injector harness

 

Take pics before you remove the harness so you know where to put it when you put it back in the truck. And take pics of all the plastic protective loom so you know where it goes. I feel like an idiot because I did t do any of that and now I'm trying to basically figure it all out from scratch as I'm outting the harness back in. It's like 34 degrees in my garage right now. This is not fun lol