98 durango idle issue
 

i have a 1998 dodge durango V8 5.2L with an automatic transmission. whenever i remove my foot from the gas pedal it dies. i notice that the rpms drop below the 1,000 mark before it quits(i belive that it hits something like 970 before dying) my theory is that the idle has fallen out of adjustment. i may be wrong but it makes sense to me. how do i go about adjusting that, and if that isnt the problem, what else could cause this? i just put a new battery in the vehicle(it had a 360 volt battery which to my understanding is nearly half what it requires, it now has a 600 volt unit if im not mistaken) as well as a starter and replaced all the fluids except transmission fluid(ive put some in but not replaced all of it/flushed the transmission which i need to have done but havent got the money) big thanks in advanced

EDIT: also i apologize if this has been covered but i figured that any similar problem didn't have the same circumstances, that said im looking through the back topics and if i fix it before any help comes my way ill say so and state my fix incase anyone else has a similar problem. also this vehicle has been a real pain and a money pit to boot so ill be back, im not about to let that money be wasted

a fully seperate issue for any who know
 

one additional annoyance and i know everyone here has probably seen this more than can be counted.

ok so as you may have guessed its the good ol window problem, now i dont want a fix because frankly i dont care if it rolls up or down i just want it up and not stuck DOWN!!:mad: so what can i do to get it off the track and jam it closed. or something like that...also i know the motor itself is bad. the plastic bits have been nearly shattered and are barely hanging on, i figure if i were to just finish busting up those plastic parts i would be able to slide it freely (provided those cables aren't busted as well, and id be able to jam something in between the glass and the seals. also what would be the best thing to jam in this area? or alternatively would it be safer or easier for me to just cut up some of the wood planks i have lying around. I'm not too bad at carpentry and i have plenty of wooden planks and dowels so it wouldn't be too terribly hard to fabricate some kind of system. like i said i don't give a crap about fixing the window I'm just tired of the wind on my freeway commute to work and general driving, and I'm sick of putting money into this truck.

WOW! YOU CANNOT IDLE UNDER 10K RPM? 600V BATTERY? Might want to get some information straight here.... LOL!

i think he means cant idle under 1k RPM (these trucks redline at like 6k :D) and probably the CCA rating not volts, but i will wait for him to confirm


and on the issue with the window, it would be best to just fix it, you can probably get the entire unit out of a door from a junk yard for like $50 USD and just swap it in, but if you are set on just wedging it in there int he closed position it CAN be done, the best way is probably to duct tape it into position inside the door panel, but if you feel better with useing wood to hole it go for it, its YOUR truck.

aie, i was posting at way-too-early-oclock am:D your right though it wont idle under 1k, and its the cca not volts...i feel smart. anyways the nearest junkyard is a good 3 hour drive. and i plan on fixing it eventually just not now so the window is a temporary fix, ill ebay the items a bit later and see what i can come up with. thanks for the help with the window and in advance for the idle issue

LOL! It happens to the best of us... Just giving you a hard time newb! Really, I would help but I am an engine and electrical guy... Not a body guy...

For your idle issue, try to clean the throttle body the correct way... Take the throttle body off and take the sensors out of the TB... Clean very good... There is a how to on here somewhere that you can go by... You will need a new throttle body gasket... I had this same problem when I changed my battery, when the PCM was reset from the new battery, I think it was trying to learn with not enough air and too much fuel... While before the battery change, the PCM adapted to the dirty TB allowing it to idle...

You need a new battery and a new window motor.

Low RPM idle problems is classic battery related.

If the window is down and it dies there, it stays there.

IndyDurango

@neo it had the problem far worse before the new battery, hell i had to idle at 1400 rpm to keep it from dying so im fairly certain thats not THE problem but i dont see it making it any worse...unless i screw up but it seems simple enough that i shouldnt have a problem

@indy the battery is less than 2 weeks old so... and with the window, thats what i was afraid of.

I totally agree with Neo on this one.

Idle should be at around 600 RPM.

IAC or TPS but I think a good cleaning of the TB and sensors with a good Carb Cleaner, clean connection, PCM reset and some time to re-learn the settings is in order.

If that don't work replace the IAC.

Question is when was the last time you did a tune up and what parts did you use...... These rigs are picky!

New batt and it is worse? Then it is the batt. Check the connections and make sure the batt is good. New does not always mean good.

IndyD

no indy as i said it was much worse BEFORE the new battery now it only does it after being driven for about 2-3 miles. just for clarification i can start it go a few blocks, for instance to pick up a friend, and itl idle with my foot off the gas while i wait for them to come out. before i had to pump the gas pedal to start it and keep it idled at 1k or it would quit.

as for last time it was tuned up...i have no clue, ive had it for maby 3 months, a friend sold it to me for like 1500 bucks and i knew it needed work, she cant keep a car running for the life of her so i doubt its had anything in the 2 years shes owned it, ill have to ask.

Also, go check the air filter and see how it looks... You should at least be able to see some daylight coming through when you look through it at some lighting...

I smell tune up!

I'd say TPS but this is just my 2 cents. the only time I pump twice is in my old 74 with a carb

Alright so i got in thismorning and drove to the local coffe shop. i was waiting in the drive through and got lazy so i took my foot off the gas. and guess what...ITS FINE:confused: figuring it was a fluke i went for a bit of a drive and ran some other errands. it seems that it needed nothing but time to adjust. i am however going to do everyones suggestions just because it can use it. thanks for all the help, ill be back when i need help fixing the gass leak...these things are just one thing after another arent they.

Not anymore so then any other truck.. just depends on how well it has been maintained. They all come with a maintenance schedule, 90%+ never get followed and thats not the trucks fault.

Try owning an Audi!

Ive heard some horror stories but i doubt they could be as bad as my old nightmare of a jeep grand cherokee. i couldnt keep electricity in that thing to save my life, and the gengine was two things after another. add to that that im 6'5" and mostly legs making it so i dont fit in the damn thing and psychostick's song two ton paperweight comes to mind
two ton paperweight(WARNING! EXPLICIT)

EDIT:it appears bbcode doesnt work the way it normally does but this song describes that and all of my cars so well and is just such a great song that im sure we could all relate to at some point or another that i decided to leave it

your right and i know this thing needs some good tlc but i know people who own them and take good care of them and have constant problems and i also know people who take lousy care of them and they work great, not to mention my uncle who is BEYOND anal retentive about maintaining his vehicles has more problems than i do and has a 99 with a step bigger engine. it seems problems are lesser or worse from vehicle to vehicle in this particular model. im just glad i have one in the middle...

I like to add some information that maybe coming from left field. Unplug the clocksring and ck the 60 way connector under the dash too. The clockspring shares a ground going to the TPS sensor.

Gavin,

I understand the feeling about junk cars. We've all had one or more.

BTW, song sucks! LOL

IndyD

Gas leak!!!!!

Question is, if you have a gas leaks air could be coming into the fuel line and as the fuel pushes by it can create a vacuum pulling aie in. Not to meniton filling the system with air bubbles and back feed into the pump.


The computer needs time to adjust and this is usual. This should occur anytime you reset the computer. If you look on the first page in here it will show you the info on reseting: Engine Code Index (Check Engine Light?)

Was the Evap system and charcoal cannister checked=vents the gas tank of vapor at start up then the solenoid is supposed to shut or a vacuum leak in the system can play havoc----what is the vacuum of the motor at idle=should be steady and about 18hg my 5.2 is with 190980 is

first off..... I love this forum tons of information here for someone that does not deal with these things on day to day basis

and sorry for resurecting old thred.

Anyway, my wife likes this truck and does not want to part with it and in her infinite wisdom before leaving for business trip she left interior light on. When to start the truck few days later to find out battery went flat. No problem drag the charger out, let it run overnight in the morning cranks just fine, starts and dies below 1000RPM voltage stays at about 14v, put new TPS in never realized to take a look at battery hence it starts OK and has good voltage

Any way talk terminals off, post on battery are ok but the OEM clamps were so oxidized that it actually increased in size. Put new clamps on and she is back and running.

Anyway sorry for bringing the dead from the past but the moral of the story here is dont forget to look at the obvious even though it seems to be ok

OH you pooor baby, who could imagine owning such thing?!?!?! Seriously tho I know those are expensive I hit one just over a year ago........

I dont neccesarily have an answer but I've ran into this problem after draining out my battery which ive done like 3 or 4 times since I bought my 98, 1st it was the back power lock draining it, Fixed that. Had a damaged wire on the amp that was another cause, fixed that. last time was me cranking my radio with the truck off & in roughly 30 mins my **** was dead,lol

everytime I have charged the battery back up so it turned over & ran I would let it run for a few mins then jump in and id shift into drive & it would die, It would keep doing this basically till I just gunned it out the driveway and took off in it & then it wouldnt do it no more, only seemed to do it right after the charge up

So maybe their could be some battery relation to your problem