98 Durango OBD 1597 HELP
#1
#3
Now when you say you had the code read you mean ODB only correct? Meaning the CEL came on.
You replaced the rear sensor ( On the rear differential ) and the problem stopped? When was that?
If you replaced the rear sensor on the diff and the problem wasnt solved and the wires leading to were fine i suggest bringing your vehicle to a shop with a ABS scanner to narrow down your results. You cannot scan ABS codes yourself, pricey equipment that shops/dealers have...
You replaced the rear sensor ( On the rear differential ) and the problem stopped? When was that?
If you replaced the rear sensor on the diff and the problem wasnt solved and the wires leading to were fine i suggest bringing your vehicle to a shop with a ABS scanner to narrow down your results. You cannot scan ABS codes yourself, pricey equipment that shops/dealers have...
#4
I replaced the speed sensor on the rear end in the summer, reset the error, and the ABS and parking brake light came right back on. I returned the sensor to the store.
I'm kind of new to this scanner so I'm not quite sure what you are asking. I hooked my scanner to the connector and ran my software and it came back with the error code 1597.
Two years ago the abs and pbrake lights came on and I replaced the rear speed sensor and the lights went out.
One other problem I had was the abs and parking brake light came on and the engine idled very fast. I determined it had something to do with the brake fuse under the hood. When I removed the fuse it was fine but I had no brake lights. I ended up bypassing the fuse and running a hot wire from another fuse directly to the brake pedal switch. Everything was fine for a year after that.
I haven't looked to the 60 pin connector yet. Please let me know if you have any other ideas. I'm trying to avoid taking it in.
I'm kind of new to this scanner so I'm not quite sure what you are asking. I hooked my scanner to the connector and ran my software and it came back with the error code 1597.
Two years ago the abs and pbrake lights came on and I replaced the rear speed sensor and the lights went out.
One other problem I had was the abs and parking brake light came on and the engine idled very fast. I determined it had something to do with the brake fuse under the hood. When I removed the fuse it was fine but I had no brake lights. I ended up bypassing the fuse and running a hot wire from another fuse directly to the brake pedal switch. Everything was fine for a year after that.
I haven't looked to the 60 pin connector yet. Please let me know if you have any other ideas. I'm trying to avoid taking it in.
#5
Check the connection harness on the rear diff.
You might have a vacuum leak from a bad check valve on the brake booster causing the high idle. (lil black valve on the booster)
As for the wiring issue, you really need to find the problem and fix it. Just jumping voltage isn't the best way to take care of an issue.
You might have a vacuum leak from a bad check valve on the brake booster causing the high idle. (lil black valve on the booster)
As for the wiring issue, you really need to find the problem and fix it. Just jumping voltage isn't the best way to take care of an issue.
#6
The harness looks good. The fast idle, check engine, abs and p brake all came on when I plugged the Brake fuse in. I removed the fuse and the problem went away but no brake lights. I'm assuming some short but the wiring is a needle is a hay stack. That is when I ran a direct feed to the brake pedal switch. In troubleshooting the problem I removed the auto start and alarm system to eliminate them as the problem. It was good for a while then the ABS and p brake light came on but no fast idle. Could it be the abs sensors on the front bearings? Is there a way to test this?