Have not been able to get the truck scanned, having issues still with the abs/brake lights. It had quit doing the partial abs kick on left turns. Tonight, pulling slowly out of a parking lot, I barely tapped the brakes to slow/stop before pulling out into the road. Barely touched the brakes, going straight forward, and abs kicked in full time, didnt even attempt to slow, just rolled out into the road. Lights were both on. I thought when the lights were on, abs was OFF? I jammed on the brakes as hard as i could and it finally caught and locked up solid. I pulled back into the parking lot, brakes were working, I pulled the big abs fuse in the underhood block and drove carefully home. I hope that has killed the abs intervention. I grew up driving cars without power brakes so I really dont need the computer telling me its safe to roll on out in the road on dry flat pavement at less than ~5 mph. Im tempted to just go out and unplug every electrical connection on the pump.

The lights were an issue from the moment we got it, but I didnt start having unwanted abs issues until I put this new wheel bearing on last week. :| I know the lights are either the rear abs sensor or the one on the trans, but is this issue something with the pump or the new wheel bearing thats also already making noise. It was tourqed correctly, and yes it was the cheap pos. My f*** up I know. The other one was about to just come off and I thought maybe the cheap one would last a month or two untill I can come up with the other $150 more to get the timekin. I always run timekins, but just plain didnt have the $250 to do it this time. If its just the crappy wheel bearing and its sensor, I can live with that, as long as removing the abs fuse will kill it. I dont need any more heart attacks, already been in one bad wreck a few years back that I shouldnt have walked away from.



One last thing, what is the damn whoosh noise on startup? I thought it was the purge valve for the evap system, but I havnt heard it since I killed the abs via fuse. It has also been randomly making its noise, not doing it on startup, but after I start driving off and sometimes more than once. Related? Or is this thing letting the ghost out all at once?

 

Yeah it sounds to me like your ABS pump is shot. I'd unplug the connections going from it for your safety and just live with it until you can afford to get a new one. As for the whoosh when it starts I believe that's the brake booster pressurizing up an if its doing it randomly, I'd say look into maybe a cracked vacuum line or something.

 

OK, thats good to hear. Unplugging it is fine with me. Only time I really dont mind having it is on ice, but even then it can be a little much of a pain..... I wont get into the whole abs debate it does have its advantages and I'll admit it, but damn, when it fails it should default to completely off.....

On the whoosh..... its something electrical is why I was wonding about a purge valve. I thought the brakes were only vaccume operated by the running engine. Normally, it would do it when you turn the key on and waited a second to start, or if you turned the key and started in one fluid motion, then right after it started. You can see the lights slightly flicker when it does it, from pulling amperage. Realllllllly wish I could get in to get this thing scanned good. Thanks for the info again.

 

Assuming ABS is fine, you need to bleed and bleed and bleed THE REARS again. Poor setup there will kick in the ABS with just the slightest brake issue... even just stopping at a stop sign.

IndyD

 

I havnt had the system open, ever. You suggesting a small leak? Im not trying to be an ***, just trying to figure this out so please dont take that the wrong way... One more little thing, looking at new pumps, I noticed there classified as awal and rwal for all wheel and rear only. The truck has 4 wheel abs, but the fuse in the box on the dash says abs/rwal. Is that anything I need to be concerned about? Or did all of them say that regaurdless? I pulled that fuse also but then the speedometer didnt work so I put it back. I will unplug the harness/es from the abs pump later today before the truck moves. Thank you guys for the help and advice. With the main fuse out, I can stomp on the brakes and it stops very quick with a very small amount of skid at the end if I really try, if that helps anybody out on guessing/diagnosing. I havnt just tried to all out put the pedal through the floor, but I imagine it would screech. It appears to stop straight now on a panic stop.


Does the abs pump need to be bled with a scan tool? Do I need to just bleed all 4 corners and check or bleed the entire system?

 

If you have ABS sensors on the front wheels then you will have AWAL (All Wheel Anti-Lock).


If you don't have front wheel sensors then you have RWAL (Rear Wheel Anti-Lock).


You could also try to replace the ABS module with one of the same year and 4 wheel or 2 Wheel ABS. You could pick one up at a local junk yard, just again you have to get the same type of system and year as yours. However this does sound like a pump, it could very well be the module.

 

Started out today with the abs unplugged, hmmm guess the speedometer goes through the abs first. Plugged it back in and left the fuse out underhood and so far so good. Drove a little aggressive when safe to do so. Didnt notice anything glitching or bs today. Think this will work till I can get another module. It is 4 wheel abs, but the numbers are rubbed off the label mostly. Can somebody give me the part number(s) I can use? Can it be converted to just rear wheel abs by changing the pump or is it all in the main computer too?

 

afaik you will get an idiot light turned on it you put the wrong module in it (if you have 4wheel and put a 2wheel module in then the light will go on)

 

If you open the system, say to replace the ABS pump, or get air in the master... YES you need to have the ABS bled at the dealer.

If you keep the system closed, are careful when bleeding to not pull air from the master and just bleed the corners, no air gets into the ABS pump and you do not need to go to the dealer.

Brake fluid gets old and should be replaced. In Europe this is a requirement by law... not so here in the USA. Should be probably.

Final note, start bleeding from the farthest point away from the ABS pump and work until you are closest. Also, bleed the hidden one under the trap door in the drivers wheel well. That's the ABS. Again, any air gets in there and the dealer will need to cycle it to purge the air.

HTH,

IndyDurango

 

Doesn't matter the part number, just get the exact same type module from the same year and model and ABS system as yours and then it's plug and play.


Indy<----A small bit of correction, if any air gets into the ABS pump or above (toward the master cylinder) then you need to bleed the ABS and that can only be done at a shop with a ABS system (basically take it to a dealer). If you get air into a lower section then you should be able to bleed the system without.