Any pointers for Power Steering Hose Replacement
 

I swapped out the rack a year ago (leaky) and all was well. Now I'm getting fluid on the floor again. I crawled under and had a look, believe it's not rack seals again, so think I'll swap out the 18 yr old high pressure line as a start. Anyone been there recently and have advice/tricks that may help? ...maybe pulling the battery to get better access from above?

Yeah, remove anything easy to make access better.
Drown the fittings in pbblaster, makes 'em a bit easier to break loose.
Get both ends flare nuts (or whatever) started before you tighten either end down completely.
Jack up the front, if you haven't already, refill the reservoir, let the engine idle, and turn the steering lock to lock a couple times. First time is likely to empty the reservoir right quick, so, pay attention. :)
When fluid actually stays in the reservoir, at first, it is going to be foamy. So, let it sit for 30 minutes or so, for the air to come out of the fluid, then, start the engine, run steering lock to lock a few more times, and shut it down. Recheck fluid level, and see if its still foamy. If it is, repeat the process. Might take a few rounds of refill/play with steering/wait, before all the air is out. Once done, set it on the ground, and go for a ride. See how the steering is.

Check the return line as well. They tend to rot, and if screw clamps were used, they can crack around the clamps, and also leak pretty good.

Thanks Brian. Good idea on maybe doing the return lines too. Since those are low pressure, rack to cooler and cooler to pump, are they just clamp lines? ...just replace rubber hose part?

Wash it all down with engine wash, so you can pinpoint the leak.

Make sure you have lots of line wrenches. My replacement line had different sized hex heads than the original did.

Change both lines while you are in there. Very cheap on RockAuto. I bought my Durango and he had recently done the pressure line. Truck was dry when I test drove it and idled it for 1/2 hour when looking at it. On the way home with it the low pressure line failed (the steel end of it near the rack) and it was a nightmare to do behind the high pressure line. I ended up taking the HP line off to do the low as well. I did mine through the wheel well and had to bend my hands in ways they have not bent in 20yrs, lol.

On that, I don't know..... but, they have been in there just as long as the pressure line. :) They don't work as hard, but, the rubber has likely degraded to the same point.... so, no better time than when the pressure line is also out of the way. :D

The low pressure line clamps on the cooler and has a threaded end in the rack. I believe you can replace just the rubber though.

Was looking at the Rock Auto site, which has both with and without 'switch port'. Switch for what? ...a sensor of some sort?

Was that one of those switches that raised the idle if you were turning the wheel?