Hard Starting Neon
 

Any info is greatly appreciated. My daughter has a 95 neon. It is hard to start, turns over tries to start, sometimes starts sputters then dies. If it does eventually start and warms up it starts fine the rest of the day. A bad sensor?

it could be a coolant temp sensor... but it could also be weak fuel pressure... has the fuel filter been changed lately? seen as its a 95 it should have an external (normal) style fuel filter... if thats been changed might be worth having the fuel pressure checked cause the fuel pressure regulator could be weak or the fuel pump may be weak

I dont think the car would run fine when warm if it had a plugged fuel filter, no/weak fuel pressure. It doesnt miss a beat once it is started or through out the day after it is warmed up. What about the air temp sensor. I am shure it has something to do with the air temp or temp of the engine.

it still could be the coolant temp sensor and it deff still could be the fuel pressure regulator or fuel pump... number one sign for those starting to go bad is hard starting after sitting (cold engine starts)... i've only had to replace the fuel pressue regulators on 4 vehicles for the same exact symptoms you described... i haven't had it on my neon yet but several other vehicles...

Get a tune up to start and follow with a diagnostic check.

I agree with Ghost.

You don't specify how many miles are on the car, when it was last tuned up with new plugs, wires, etc., when/if any sensors have been replaced (mainly the o2 sensors and even then mainly the upper one), what/if any fault codes that may be stored on the PCM (you can do the On-Off key dance to get the two digit codes and go to almost any parts store to get a ODB-II readout for the detailed P codes). The 1995 model was the ONLY Neon model to have an external replaceable fuel filter and as it starts clogging up, it will cause issues.

Depending on when the car was last maintained and how many miles are on the car, you may want to pay for a full tune-up and have the timing belt and tensioner replaced - and if it were me - I would replace the water pump too as it is not that expensive, and when a good pump goes bad, it WILL wreak the timing belt, bend valves, and cause far more damage and cost a whole lot more then just replacing the pump!

I know this from working on MY 1995 car. I was given to me by my friend (had 158K on it) and when it blew the timing belt (either it blew because the water pump seized, or the timing belt warped it when it snapped) the #1 intake and exhaust valves were bent, and all three rocker arms needed replacing too - as the hydrostatic adjusters were torn off.

Spend a little money and keep it going. These are good little cars. Mine is giving me fits right now, but I am going to see it through. Beats the heck out of car payments!

Where is the coolant sensor. Cant tell by the drawing on this board. Is it on the front of the block or backside by the firewall above the rack and pinion. Thanks...

The temperature sensor for a SOHC engine is on the driver side end of the cylinder head, right next to the Camshaft position sensor. You will need to remove the air pipe from the air filter to the throttle body and shift the wiring harness and brake booster hose out of your way. You may even want to go ahead and remove the EGR pipe just to give you plenty of room to get the sensor out.

Dude I must have been lucky i bought my 97 dohc for 500 bucks cause the water pump went out and tore the timing belt up... threw a new water pump on and a new timing belt and runs perfect... 6 months later and 10k miles loving it, getting killer milage and the car is a blast to drive...

stuck EGR
 

An egr valve stuck open will cause hard starting as you discribed and no engine codes.