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-   -   318 will not accelerate! Please help (https://dodgeforum.com/forum/1st-gen-ram-tech/184152-318-will-not-accelerate-please-help.html)

csd4682 12-28-2008 08:01 AM

318 will not accelerate! Please help
 
So I had some transmission issues before, I think they are resolved. My problem now, and really always has been is that I can push the gas pedal to the floor and the truck will barley move, and may even stall out, also backfires from time to time why accelerating at any speed. Its an 83' 318 auto. Here is what I have done in the past 2 weeks. New fuel pump, fuel filter, spark plugs, plug wires, ignition coil, altenator, water pump, carb rebuild. I took a reading from the spark plugs, and only one side of the plug is turn ing brown, the other side is completly white. The brown side looks perfect. Why would only one side change color. I have set the timing and its dead on. I have had the rear right wheel lock up a couple of times after backing up and then putting it into drive. Would that cause this. I have been so worried about getting the motor right I just havent fooled with the wheel. Im going to do a compression test today on all cylinders. What pressure should my fuel pump be operating at. I want to see that its working correctly also. I should note that when the truck is in park, I can rev the motor great without a single miss, its only when there is a load, also when working on the truck last night, after a test run around the block, I poped the hood and the headers were glowing red in the middle. I've never seen headers glow. Is this normal?

jeff___H 12-28-2008 08:04 AM

Sounds like your catalytic converter is clogged.

Wheel has nothing to do with it.

csd4682 12-28-2008 08:17 AM

I never thought of that! Thanks! I guess I can cut it out, drive around the block and see.

lugnuts 12-28-2008 09:47 AM

Backfire through the carb or out the exhaust? Carb is plugged exhaust, late timing or lean, exhaust is electrical, unburnt fuel piles up in the exhaust.
If the converter doesn't do it also chk the mechanical and vacuum advance both. If the mechanical is stuck,and the vacuum canister diaphram is busted or hooked up wrong, all you'll have is base timing. Late timing raises exhaust temps. Make sure the vac. advance is hooked to ported vac. {above the throttle blades,no vac at idle] and not manifold vacuum as manifold vac. drops when you open the throttle.

3.5 - 4 psi on the fuel pressure, no more than 7psi. The plugs sound normal.

csd4682 12-28-2008 07:21 PM

I dont really understand what you mean by "mechanical, and vacum advance" Its not the cat, so I am open to any and all ideas. Please, if you can describe to me what you are talking about so I know what im looking for. Thanks again for everyones input. This thing is driving me crazy, and my wife very well may start making me sleep in this thing.

lugnuts 12-28-2008 09:47 PM

Well that was a pisser. Typed a long winded reply and it wouldn't let me post. POS. OK here we go again,finger cramps an' all.

First just crank the dist counter clockwise a 1/2" or so and see if it improves the performance. If so go from there.

The mechanical advance mechanism is under the plate that the pick up coil is attached to. It has 2 weights opposed by springs that are arranged to advance the rotor in relation to the shaft. As RPM's increase the weights are forced outward centrifugally opposing the springs. The springs pull the weights back against the stop pins as the engine returns to idle.

The vac. advance is the canister on the side of the dist. It attaches to the pick up plate and advances the timing of the pick up in relation to the reluctor wheel.

Pull the dist cap and turn the rotor clockwise. It should move about 3/8" and return freely. If it's sticking or stuck, pull the dist. and disassemble it. Pull the vac. advance off.
Note the location of the roll pin in the reluctor wheel, there's 2 keyways but only 1 is correct. Pry the reluctor off the shaft. Remove the pick up plate. Under the felt pad in the center of the shaft is a snap ring. Remove it and the advance mechanism should lift out. Check for wear and broken springs. Clean everything up, put a little lubriplate on the bushings and slots. Reassemble and put a few drops of oil on the felt pad to keep things working freely.

Apply vac. to the canister. Arm should retract without bleeding off. Replace if needed.

Now down to the nut cuttin'. To set the timing properly you need an adjustable timing light. Without it you'll have no idea of what's really going on with the curve. Disconnect the vac. advance. With a stock or mild cam I don't worry about the base timing too much,as long as it starts and idles OK. Set the light to 36 degrees advance,rev the engine to 3000 rpm and turn the dist. to bring the timing mark to zero. You now have 36 deg. dialed in the dist. with the mechanical advance only. Tighten the dist.

Apply vac. to the canister manually and rev the engine to 3000. Bring the mark to zero with the light. Read the setting on the light. This is the TOTAL advance. Should be around 50 degrees. 36 mech+14vac.=50. Reconnect the vac. advance [to ported vacuum]and take 'er for a spin and see if it surges or clatters. If so back the timing up 2 deg at a time until it quits. If the timing seems slow at idle I'll tell you how to adjust the vac. advance which will allow more base timing and clean up the idle.

Even if this doesn't fix your lack of power,we'll have at least eliminated one possible cause. EDIT: Keep in mind that over time the outer ring on the balancer can slip,screwing your readings. See if the rubber in the balancer is badly deteriorated. There's a way to check the accuracy but it's a pain.

csd4682 12-29-2008 05:28 AM

Thanks for such a detailed response. I will start checking everything out after work today and see what we come up with. Thanks again.

charlie1935 12-29-2008 10:01 AM

Very detailed, lugnuts. You forgot the pictures! LOL

csd4682 12-29-2008 12:01 PM

IS there any way to test or replace the mechanical advance. The vacum advance seems eaisy enough. Finding an adjustable timing light maybe tricky!

lugnuts 12-29-2008 01:33 PM

Adjustable or advance timing lights are available from Harbor Freight if your financially challenged like me. May not be a $300 Snap On, but generally acurate enough for the occasional tune up. It's what I have. $39.95 if I remember right.

With today's computer controlled everything,setting up a dist. is becoming voodoo. How long since you changed a set of points Charlie? I can't remember the last set I've done. Or worked on a magneto?


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