Do these ball joints look right to you?
 

I am lowering my 1984 Dodge D150 and I installed 2500 van lower control arms and installed new bushings and ball joint in the factory uppers. Did a axle flip in the rear. I set it on the ground to check the stance and the front is 1.5" higher than the rear. Started looking around the front end and the upper ball joints look in a bind to me and the cotter pin isn't going through the crown nut. Just looks weird to me. I do remember when installing the ball joint that the socket I took off the old ball joint was to big to fit the new ball joint. Could I have been sold the wrong ball joints? Also, Can the cam bolts be under pressure or bind up? https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/dodgefo...390a08cfa5.jpg
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/dodgefo...1a385db506.jpg

do you have a part number for the lower control arms that you used? something about your setup definitely does not look right at all. it is pretty normal for cheap ball joints to have the cotter pin not go through the castle nuts. i will usually bent the cotter pins up to keep the nut from turning.

I bought the lowers from Rock Auto and the part # is RK620242 and RK620242 Ultra-Power brand, cross # 4210584 and 4210585. Says 1984 B150 1/2 ton cargo van.

Check out the distance between the spindle and the upper control arm, looks like to much room to me.

after looking under my 93 the gap on that looks pretty normal. just looks like the boot sits funny. https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/dodgefo...22e6380e19.jpg

Yeah I found a picture on the internet from a van lower control flip that someone else did and it look the same as mine.....I guess the front sitting higher than the rear through me for a loop, but I did put new coil spring on the front and left the old leaf springs on the rear, maybe that explains the front sitting higher.

Should there be weight on the front suspension before I tighten the upper cam bolts (or sway bars) or does that matter? Was thinking if I tighten them while the suspension was at full droop that maybe it had some tension or binding.
May have to add a ADD-a-leaf to the rear to get it to level out.
CrazzyWolfie I just wanted to say thanks for helping me out....you are always a wealth of information and I appreciate the time and patients you take.

ya it might take a while for the new springs to settle and level out with the back end.

ya you should probably have some weight on it before tightening them but the alignment shop will likely have to loosen them up and adjust things again once you do get things ready to go again.
as far as adding a leaf in the rear wouldn't really anything since the axle now sits over the leaf springs.
no problem. always try to help out when i can. i spent my fair share of time on the forums learn myself

Did you check the suspension travel(all the way down to the stop) to see if the ball joints binds up. If it does you could bend or possibly brake the upper ball joint. Might be time to look into drop control arms. You can add a washer to the nut to space it where the cotter pin goes threw the nut.

Didn't think about adding the washer to get the cotter pin located right....I have bounced the front end up and down and it seems to move freely and without binding. I guess the sitting higher in the front is due to new coil springs....I'm going to drive it a bit this week and if the front end doesn't settle down any I will either pull a leaf out of the rear or put the old coils back in under the front.