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Auto. Trans. Rebuild.

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Auto. Trans. Rebuild.

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  #1  
Old 10-08-2018, 06:24 PM
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Default Auto. Trans. Rebuild.

Finally got my 360 magnum swap up and running. But, blew the pump seal out of the trans in less than a mile. I even checked the fluid, added a a quart and a half, right in the middle of the stick at operating temp. Just wondering if it's worth rebuilding these trans (3 speed with overdrive). I found a true 3 speed 727 from a 71 fury, is it a direct bolt in? Gut only wants $175 for it. Says it has about 50,000. On it. Of course I'd do a filter, and all the seals before putting it in. I have to worst time with these Auto. Trans. Not the first one I burned up. Pump seals seem to be weak spot. Best one I had was in a 68 fury, drove it like a manual, and it learned when I shifted, it would chirp the rear tires up shifting to second. If that 727 is a direct bolt in I'll go that way, don't need o/d on this thing. Just a toy/project. So rebuild what I have or go with a true 727?? What hp are these stockers good to?? Lol
 
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  #2  
Old 10-08-2018, 09:48 PM
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i would take the 46RH over a 727. i would try replacing the pump seal and see if the trans is still good make sure to check the fluid with the truck in neutral. people always miss that part. especially if it is a new torque converter that is empty. i forget how many quarts it took to fill my buddies rebuild 46rh and system but i think it was at least 12-15 quarts and we would old run it for 20-30 seconds at a time starting/stopping it in neutral to check fluid level. the transmission sucked back the fluid real quick. it would drain his extra deep pan in the 20-30 seconds that the engine ran. the extra gear makes a huge difference for fuel mileage on the highway even if you had gears like 3.55. my 81 with 3.23 gears runs 80km/h at about 2000rpm and my 93 runs about 90kmh @ 2000rpm with 3.55 gears and overdrive. huge difference
 
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Old 10-08-2018, 11:27 PM
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I was actually thinking of changing the seal. Before the engine build I just did a filter and fluid change. And the seal blew out about 100 yards from the driveway. Fluid was still nice and red. I'll do another filter change, try to get some of the metal out of the system. I tried a trans so bad once the fluid looked like engine oil, but didn't smell like engine oil, I'm sure you know the smell of burnt atf, lol. It needs a shifted shaft seal anyways. Will I have to adjust the bands at all?? It looks like a reman trans, it's very clean compared to the 5.2 I took out of it. That poor 318 looked like it was dipped in crude oil, and put back in the truck. I'll keep updated, won't get to it until this weekend possibly.
 
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Old 10-08-2018, 11:50 PM
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i don't think you would have done much damage driving 100 yards unless you were revving it and it wasn't moving. revving it and it not moving may cause damage but i am guessing you may have noticed the leak pretty quick. it might not hurt to try adjusting the bands if you are in there anyways replacing seals.
 
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Old 10-09-2018, 06:04 AM
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Yeah, I felt it. It wasn't pulling like before. So I basically just let it coast along, had to give it a rev to get up in the driveway, but I used the slight downhill grade of the road, with some light accelerator to get enough momentum to get it parked. Being a magnum swap, and having to enlarge a flexplate tc bolt hole, could the TC not be centered on the flexplate causing the seal to not seal?? Seems like it would have blown out on the first few minutes I had it running. I ran it long enough to cycle the coolant, Purge the air. Check timing, adjust a/f on the carb. And also check the fluid in the trans. Plus the time it spent running for me to look for any leaks, and admire my work lol. I ran it for at least an hour before I drove it, if not longer. And it didn't leak until the end of my little test run.
 
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Old 10-09-2018, 08:29 AM
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but if only pumps fluid in neutral or in gear so no fluid was pumping when it was just sitting there. you shouldn't have needed to enlarge any of the holes on the flex plate the toque converter should only bolt to the flex plate 1 way which can be a real pain if you only discover it while under the vehicle.
 
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Old 10-09-2018, 08:40 AM
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360 is an external balance engine. On the 95 and older trucks, the balance weights were on the torque converter. Later models put them on the flexplate. You MUST have one, or the other, (not both) else you will continually be eating those seals, and rear main bearings.
 
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Old 10-09-2018, 06:53 PM
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I'm using the flex plate that came on the engine, the TC should be neutral balance, it had a 318 before. The magnum swap website said I'd have to elongate one of the four TC bolt holes to get the LA TC to bolt to the magnum flex plate.
 
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Old 10-09-2018, 07:02 PM
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Think I'll start looking for 5 speed, and switch it over. I've never had any luck with Mopar Auto trans. But 1 lol. Not knowing if this original TC is actually neutral balanced. Would they have put a balanced TC in the 91 5.2 d150s?? Will a LA balanced TC work on the magnum?? I read the flexplates won't interchange. This is getting mind boggling lol. I think a straight drive is in order. I don't need to be rebuilding this engine. Should I look for a neutral balanced TC for this thing? Or get a different flex plate? TC is $450 up on summit, a flex plate is $75 for a 360 magnum external balance.
 

Last edited by rebeltaz83; 10-09-2018 at 07:56 PM.
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Old 10-09-2018, 09:22 PM
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Think I found my answer after rereading the magnum swap site, lol. And rattling my memory the 318 I pulled had a flex plate that looked like a + sign with no weights, so it has a balanced TC, with a neutral balanced flex plate, so I need a neutral balanced TC with the balanced magnum flexplate and I'll be good, after changing the seal, and filter. It makes more sense after calming my nerves thinking I just wanted thousands on an engine build for nothing. Hopefully the rear main bearing is ok. After running it that long, it didn't shake though. I didn't notice any extreme vibrations, even when driving it that short distance.
 
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