91 d150 360 Magnum swap, 46RH non locking, no OD. So I pulled the harness from the dash entirely, followed all the useless wires and got rid of them (abs) I had no power to the blower motor, still don't. But it's supplied from the ignition switch, I plan on putting that in. Do I have to pull the steering wheel?? It looks like all the bolts are accessible after I pull the plastic cover off.

I just put in a fuse box to get rid of the fusible links, PO had wire with wire nuts, looked like complete crap, and I'm sure there were some wires not getting a feed....... One I pulled right out of the black rubber insulator. I plan on running my alternator wire down to the starter. I eliminated the two wire plug from the battery (pink wire and brown wire) that the starter wire hooks to, put in a separate plug in for that. Just trying to tighty it up a little. Question on the fusible links is there a maximum voltage/amperage they are rated for?? I'm starting small with the fuses 10 amp on the 2 smaller wires, and 20 amp on the 4 bigger wires. This thing had allot wiring problems, it had cruise control at one time, and it must not have been fused, because I found where it melted into other wires that cross over the fire wall from left side to right side, I went over this harness 100% under the hood, and inside the cab. Including the harness from the trans. I took that out when I replaced the trans. And checked it over. Even pulled the bed off and fixed the wiring mess at the sending unit. Removed the trailer wiring, fixed the mess back there also. All the lights work, horn works, everything but the blower motor, I'm pretty certain it's the ignition switch, no power to cab fuse.

 

if there is no overdrive and non locking torque converter can you really call it a 46RH. sounds like a 36RH. is there power at the fuse heater fuse with the key in the run position? does it have a/c? i think most fusible links are rated for about 30amps or less depending on the circuits it powers.

 

Lol, yeah a 36RH......... No power with key on at heater/blower fuse. It DID have ac, everything for that is unplugged/eliminated. It's really back to basics, no radio either, No speakers I pulled it all out. Speakers were trash from the window seals being non existent, radio wiring was all cut up, no pig tails. I'll keep an eye on the new fuse block if it pops a fuse I'll go up 5 amps. I'm only powering the fuel pump, ignition (Mopar electronic), lights, wipers, and hopefully the blower motor............. I'll put in a switch if I have to and have high only if it comes to that, put in a relay to keep the draw to a minimum. I'm trying to remember if there is anything else I've done to help lol. I've done so much to this thing it's hard to remember it all. All my gauges work, dash lights work...... For the cluster that is. Brake light/check engine and OD button are all unhooked, useless with the carb setup. I'm still using the factory fuel pump wires, I got the fuel pump relay bypassing the asd relay with a ground to the chassy, still powered when I turn on the key. Ignition is wired on an extra plug that has power when the key is on/start. It's still factory so I know where the wires go for the most part, but it's custom lol.

 

i think you will likely start poping fuses pretty easily when you start using stuff. blower motor alone usually pulls 20 when you get it working. lights i think pulls about 15 plus i would guess the wipers use about 5-10 plus another 5 or so for fuel pump and maybe another 5-10 for ignition/charging system. wrap the back of speakers with trash bags before installing them to keep them protected from leaking seals. a/c truck controls are a weak spot in dodges. when they get older they are more prone to being overloaded and melting/failing and being hard to find a replacement.

 

Yeah, I'll stay in the drive way when I start turning on the electrical components one at a time, and watch my fuses. Each wire has it's own fuse. This thing has been a joy lol. I saw a few plug ins that got a little warm at one point in it's life when I was working on the cab harness. A white connector was discolored, and a black connector was melted going to the abs control module behind the glove box that I completely got rid of, I followed each wire and pulled it unless it tied in with another wire I just clipped it off as close as I could get to the splice and taped it up. If it went to a connector I pulled the pin. I did it neat and clean, would never know it had abs lol. It won't ever have AC again. Radio maybe in the future after I get it painted, new window seals are a must, all the felt is gone. Door seals also. LMC truck has everything I need, and they sell both sides in a kit.

 

So I eliminated all of the wires that ran the tbi, and got rid of any wire that wasn't connected to anything. Got rid of allot of useless wires. It starts faster, and runs better. Has better throttle response so I think those fusible links must have been making a crappy connection. Now I'll tackle that ignition switch next weekend I guess. And that should be the end of the wiring for a while I hope lol.

 

never really had much issue with mine starting slow. they have always started pretty fast as long as everything is working as it should. this should help you trouble shoot the ignitions. power in at pink for heater and out at the black/red

 

Thanks for the diagram
I think the wire nuts and wire that the PO put in had allot to do with it. Plus the after market cruise control that burnt into wires under the hood. Somebody had beat me to removing that it was gone when I got the truck, but the wire was still burnt and shorting across three other wires at the fire wall. Those are gone now. All I got going to the passenger fender now is the lights, washer pump, blower motor, and the pig tail for the trans. Harness. Much more simpler now. Still have the fuel pump relay, and starter relay like factory. Ran the alternator wire across the top of the timing cover, put it inside the split wire loom so it don't rub. Cleaned up the engine bay real nice.

 

Ignition switch in, I now have a blower motor. The old switch looks like it got a bit hot, the white plastic was wavy looking, and blackish like it got a little warm. The inside of the bottom column cover had a spot were a wire melted into in from the after market cruise control. Everything works like it should now. 😁😁

 

the blower motor circuits on trucks with a/c are known week spots. i have seen melted fuses in the fuse panel and melted control panels. i haven't seen a melted ignition switch but it would not surprise me if it failed because of the load. i would even consider putting the blower motor on a relay if you use it enough.