5.9L half runs
#21
04-19-2008, 08:32 PM
RE: 5.9L half runs
DON'T just move wires haphazardly! You can't turn the rotor without also turning theengine, but it DOES matter how the distributor is "clocked" in relation to the rotor.
You need to set the engine to #1 TDC. That is, when both valves are closed on the #1 cylinder and the piston is at Top Dead Center (where the cylinder is ready to fire). Note where the rotor is (and what direction the rotor turns), and install the cap on the distributor and note which terminal is at the location where the end of the rotor is...in other words, the firing terminal. That's where your #1 plug wire goes. Know the firing order of the engine. It's 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2.
That is, install your #1 wire on that #1 terminal. Then, if the rotor turns clockwise, the next terminal in the clockwise direction is where the #8 wire goes. Then, the next one clockwise is where the #4 wire goes, etc. If the rotor actually turns counter-clockwise, then go in that direction.
But again, don't just go moving wires around. You NEED to set the engine to #1 TDC in order to properly time the engine. If that means removing a valve cover to see what the valves are doing, that may have to be what you need to do.
You need to set the engine to #1 TDC. That is, when both valves are closed on the #1 cylinder and the piston is at Top Dead Center (where the cylinder is ready to fire). Note where the rotor is (and what direction the rotor turns), and install the cap on the distributor and note which terminal is at the location where the end of the rotor is...in other words, the firing terminal. That's where your #1 plug wire goes. Know the firing order of the engine. It's 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2.
That is, install your #1 wire on that #1 terminal. Then, if the rotor turns clockwise, the next terminal in the clockwise direction is where the #8 wire goes. Then, the next one clockwise is where the #4 wire goes, etc. If the rotor actually turns counter-clockwise, then go in that direction.
But again, don't just go moving wires around. You NEED to set the engine to #1 TDC in order to properly time the engine. If that means removing a valve cover to see what the valves are doing, that may have to be what you need to do.
#22
04-19-2008, 08:57 PM
#23
04-19-2008, 09:02 PM
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RE: 5.9L half runs
ORIGINAL: JasonA
DON'T just move wires haphazardly! You can't turn the rotor without also turning the engine, but it DOES matter how the distributor is "clocked" in relation to the rotor.
You need to set the engine to #1 TDC. That is, when both valves are closed on the #1 cylinder and the piston is at Top Dead Center (where the cylinder is ready to fire). Note where the rotor is (and what direction the rotor turns), and install the cap on the distributor and note which terminal is at the location where the end of the rotor is...in other words, the firing terminal. That's where your #1 plug wire goes. Know the firing order of the engine. It's 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2.
That is, install your #1 wire on that #1 terminal. Then, if the rotor turns clockwise, the next terminal in the clockwise direction is where the #8 wire goes. Then, the next one clockwise is where the #4 wire goes, etc. If the rotor actually turns counter-clockwise, then go in that direction.
But again, don't just go moving wires around. You NEED to set the engine to #1 TDC in order to properly time the engine. If that means removing a valve cover to see what the valves are doing, that may have to be what you need to do.
DON'T just move wires haphazardly! You can't turn the rotor without also turning the engine, but it DOES matter how the distributor is "clocked" in relation to the rotor.
You need to set the engine to #1 TDC. That is, when both valves are closed on the #1 cylinder and the piston is at Top Dead Center (where the cylinder is ready to fire). Note where the rotor is (and what direction the rotor turns), and install the cap on the distributor and note which terminal is at the location where the end of the rotor is...in other words, the firing terminal. That's where your #1 plug wire goes. Know the firing order of the engine. It's 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2.
That is, install your #1 wire on that #1 terminal. Then, if the rotor turns clockwise, the next terminal in the clockwise direction is where the #8 wire goes. Then, the next one clockwise is where the #4 wire goes, etc. If the rotor actually turns counter-clockwise, then go in that direction.
But again, don't just go moving wires around. You NEED to set the engine to #1 TDC in order to properly time the engine. If that means removing a valve cover to see what the valves are doing, that may have to be what you need to do.
Chris
#25
04-19-2008, 09:44 PM
RE: 5.9L half runs
I am kinda agreeing with jason & wink. Turn your engine until the line on the crank damper is even with the TDC mark on thecover. Take #1 plug out, and put a coat hanger or something in the hole and see if #1 piston is up, then take distributor cap off, and see if the rotor is pointing to the #1on the dist cap. Make sure plug wires are right.
#26
04-19-2008, 09:55 PM
Grand Champion
RE: 5.9L half runs
just put a socket and a johnson bar on the crank bolt andturn it till #1 is at TDC. you will have to make sure that both valves are closed too. then you can double check the timing and make sure its not off at all. who knows if the guy you bought the motor off of removed the distributor or not.
#27
04-20-2008, 12:07 AM
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RE: 5.9L half runs
ORIGINAL: jonnymagnum
just put a socket and a johnson bar on the crank bolt and turn it till #1 is at TDC. you will have to make sure that both valves are closed too. then you can double check the timing and make sure its not off at all. who knows if the guy you bought the motor off of removed the distributor or not.
just put a socket and a johnson bar on the crank bolt and turn it till #1 is at TDC. you will have to make sure that both valves are closed too. then you can double check the timing and make sure its not off at all. who knows if the guy you bought the motor off of removed the distributor or not.
It seems to run a bit better each time I start it too, so I am not sure...
#28
04-20-2008, 04:31 AM
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RE: 5.9L half runs
Okay here is something:
http://varsisstudio.com/oddidle.3g2.zip
A video use quicktime to open it. Not sure how else, but you can see the rev's and hear the engine a bit. The clanking im thinking is the exhaust...
http://varsisstudio.com/oddidle.3g2.zip
A video use quicktime to open it. Not sure how else, but you can see the rev's and hear the engine a bit. The clanking im thinking is the exhaust...
#29
04-20-2008, 08:20 AM
RE: 5.9L half runs
Thanks for the video. That helps describe the problem for us.
I don't think you need to necessarily remove the distributor. As long as the rotor points to the #1 terminal on the cap when the #1 piston is at Top Dead Center, the timing should be on.
How much do you know about this engine? It could really be a variety of things... Have you performed a compression test on each cylinder? Did you hear it/see it run before you bought it? In other words, do you KNOW it ran right before it was pulled from the previous vehicle?
I don't think you need to necessarily remove the distributor. As long as the rotor points to the #1 terminal on the cap when the #1 piston is at Top Dead Center, the timing should be on.
How much do you know about this engine? It could really be a variety of things... Have you performed a compression test on each cylinder? Did you hear it/see it run before you bought it? In other words, do you KNOW it ran right before it was pulled from the previous vehicle?