Vibration after replacing rear differential
#1
Vibration after replacing rear differential
The other day while I was driving down the road, my c clamp slipped out and sent my axle left while I went right. I got it home and the differential was all jacked up. The thrust washers were all in pieces and gears were chipped on nearly every tooth. I got a new differential. This is the first time I've ever worked on a rear so please bare with my terminology. To get the gear tooth pattern correct, there are threaded adjusters on each side of the bearings rather than shims. I adjusted them until the pattern was perfect, then I tightened them both fairly tight. These push the outside bearing ring tighter on the bearings and hold the differential tighter into place. I think this is where I went wrong. Can these adjusters be tightened too tight? Basically the vibration that I have is when I accelerate from a dead stop. It feels like I'm running over rumble strips and it only lasts less than a second. Other than the the truck drives fine without any noticeable problems. Has anyone ever worked on these rears and know how tight the adjusters should be? I hate to tear it all apart again just to loosen the adjusters but if that's what's causing my vibration problem, I'll do it.
This is a 1997 4x4 Dakota ext. cab if that matters.
This is a 1997 4x4 Dakota ext. cab if that matters.
#2
#3
hard ?
Never worked on a Diff are they hard to do correctly a pain in the behind or easy with the correct tools calipers so on.
I may replace my diff gears with a different set some time or get a rearend off a crashed Dak looking to get the disk drakes and a 9.50 3.92 geared diff to replace my older 8.25 3.55 geared rearend with the crappy 9 inch brakes that suck.
Also looking to replace my driveshaft with an aluminum shaft my 2.5L needs all the help it can get.
I may replace my diff gears with a different set some time or get a rearend off a crashed Dak looking to get the disk drakes and a 9.50 3.92 geared diff to replace my older 8.25 3.55 geared rearend with the crappy 9 inch brakes that suck.
Also looking to replace my driveshaft with an aluminum shaft my 2.5L needs all the help it can get.
Last edited by 98DAKAZ; 10-24-2011 at 08:23 PM.
#4
Never worked on a Diff are they hard to do correctly a pain in the behind or easy with the correct tools calipers so on.
I may replace my diff gears with a different set some time or get a rearend off a crashed Dak looking to get the disk drakes and a 9.50 3.92 geared diff to replace my older 8.25 3.55 geared rearend with the crappy 9 inch brakes that suck.
Also looking to replace my driveshaft with an aluminum shaft my 2.5L needs all the help it can get.
I may replace my diff gears with a different set some time or get a rearend off a crashed Dak looking to get the disk drakes and a 9.50 3.92 geared diff to replace my older 8.25 3.55 geared rearend with the crappy 9 inch brakes that suck.
Also looking to replace my driveshaft with an aluminum shaft my 2.5L needs all the help it can get.
I didn't touch the pinion gear so I don't know anything about that, but I think it also needs changed if you're changing gears.
#5
OK, I have the same issue. It could be - worn U joints or an issue with the driveshaft. I was reading up on this and there are some specifications that need to be correct between the driveshaft angle etc. I will find it and post the link here.
http://arrc.epnet.com/autoapp/8960/8..._BALANCING.htm
http://arrc.epnet.com/autoapp/8960/8..._BALANCING.htm
Last edited by New 2 Dodge; 10-28-2011 at 12:53 PM.
#6
OK, I have the same issue. It could be - worn U joints or an issue with the driveshaft. I was reading up on this and there are some specifications that need to be correct between the driveshaft angle etc. I will find it and post the link here.
http://arrc.epnet.com/autoapp/8960/8..._BALANCING.htm
http://arrc.epnet.com/autoapp/8960/8..._BALANCING.htm