I find that I will need rebuilt heads for my 97 5.2, any suggestions as to where to get them will be appreciated as there are not a lot of sources here in Idaho.
I can have them rebuilt locally for about 140 each, then I'll need full gasket sets and head bolts. I saw an ad for a company from Georgia that advertised a special on heads for about 450 including bolts and head gaskets. Is that a good deal or not?
New to this working on new cars, I stopped doing car work except for the easy stuff in the 70's, been just driving my life away until I retired a couple of years ago and I'm trying to get back into this stuff. Anything I need to watch out for that an old guy won't be watching for in todays engines? All help would be listened to.

 

Why are you replacing the heads? Are your originals cracked?

The stock castings were rather thin, hence, prone to cracking. Spending money on them is pretty much a waste. There are several companies that offer NEW castings, with thicker decks, that are much more durable. You can pick up a pair, fully assembled, for around 600 on ebay. (clearwater cylinder head, odessa cylinder head, both the same company.)

Get a good, fel-pro gasket set, and have at it. If the motor is high mileage, consider doing the timing chain and gears to. Have you fixed your plenum yet?

 

l bought this rig with a cracked head on the drivers side, I purchased a used motor (150K vs the 204K original) and put it in. Now in the first few days of use, it appears that I may have another cracked head (last time was number 5, now its number 7). I have two original passenger heads that I could have rebuilt, is it worth the effort or not?, I don't even know if I can get a useful set of heads from my two rebuildable ones that I have, I've never been a rebuilder, I've never had a car crack a head in all the years I've driven and worked on cars. I guess from what you say, that these heads are just junk and not worth trying to save. by the way, my second engine came out of a Durango, and I did not do anything to it except change oil pump and pan.
thanks for the help.

 

I've seen to many threads where folks spend money at the machine shop on the stock heads, only to find out they are trash. Personally, I like to rebuild the motor once, and then drive it for at least a couple years...... New heads guarantee (for the most part) I can do that. Reconditioned heads generally get the deck surfaced, which makes the 'thin deck' problem even worse. Sure, it's an expense, but, in my (not-so) humble opinion, worth it for the peace of mind.

 

My problem is that all I find are reman heads, and new Elderbock aluminum heads for 1100 dollars each and I can't afford to spend that for just a pair of heads.

 

Found 'em, however, seems the prices for these have gone up a LOT. Over 1K, but, for a pair at least.....

 

Okay , I have found a company called King out of Oakland California that builds new heads with upgraded specifications (and about 2 pounds per head of material), new valves, springs, etc.
Under 800 for the pair shipped to Idaho with a Victor Gasket Set.
I now need a new cam and a few items like a new oil pump and cam bearings so I can start putting it back together.
.

 

New cam? What happened to the old one?

 

Buy EngineQuest heads. Can get a pair assembled fairly cheap from the usual places.

 

Do NOT change the cam unless you make a serious change in the pushrods or rocker arms or valvesprings. #1`easiest way to destroy parts is to combine an aftermarket cam with factory pushrods and rockers and springs.