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Some time ago, out of nowhere, it started to run hot.
Let it cool and checked rad; it was low.
Checked res and it was still full so thought maybe it was cap.
Replaced cap but a few weeks later... same thing.
Took the time to bleed the system and after 30 minutes still had tiny bubbles.
Through all this time res never changed.
Been topping off every few days but now seems to puking it a bit too often when in stop and go traffic. Didnt do this before.
Got block tester and I get green, not yellow, but also not blue.
I was faced with the same dilemma. Didn't know if it was leaky gasket or cracked block and didn't want the expense of finding out on an old truck. I took the easy and cheap way out and it worked great for me.
I was faced with the same dilemma. Didn't know if it was leaky gasket or cracked block and didn't want the expense of finding out on an old truck. I took the easy and cheap way out and it worked great for me.
I ran the K&W mixed with tap water for 500 miles, might have been two weeks or so. It is important that you don't use the stuff that's simply added to to the coolant. That can block the heater core cause you leave it in. Keep in mind your truck will be down for like a week, as it dries.
Yes, it passed the block test that it previously failed.
I disconnected the heater core by pulling off the two heater hoses where they attach to the heater pipes that run across the motor. Don't pull the hoses at the firewall, as the inlets there bend too easily and will leak. I bought a roll of heater hose from the parts store and basically bent it into a loose "U" to loop the heater piping together. To flush, just connected the new heater hose (or any hose for that matter, to the heater piping on motor and hold a tapered hose nozzle to one end. Water will flow out the other end. Alternate it both ways. Prior to doing this, remove the thermostat and leave it out for the entire procedure, including driving 500 miles and final flushing, etc. Note, I removed the radiator temporarily, as it makes removing the thermostat a lot easier. When doing final flush, flush out the radiator and the overflow bottle. You don't want that stuff anywhere it's not needed. Matter of fact, I ran the 500 miles without the shroud/washer/overflow. I had the overflow hose going into a glass bottle, which I would pour back into the radiator daily.
EDIT: Forgot to mention that you must also drain the radiator and flush it with water. All coolant must be gone when using the product.
I wrote a lot, so if it's not clear, feel free to ask further. Of course, you'll want to do all this before cold weather hits.
Ok so got the stuff. Have cap off and water level doesnt go down.
Quite a bit has gone out but just keeps coming.
I was under the impression that when the stat opened water went down.
What are you trying to do right now? You need to remove the thermostat completely and set it aside till the job is done. Follow bottom radiator hose to motor and that's where the thermostat is located. Start by draining radiator first, opening the petcock. You need to drain the system of coolant and flush it with water repeatedly, then drain the water out. Rear end should be higher than front so it drains properly. Did you buy the hose so you can disconnect the heater core and loop the pipes?
09-06-2018, 07:42 PM
Cracked head or leaking gaskets?
