Mitigating parasitic losses
#1
11-19-2018, 11:01 PM
Mitigating parasitic losses
My latest repair, water pump replacement, has taught me a few things... The result is my truck has a bit more power now and we'll see if mileage gains are realized as I calculate mpg on the next few tanks.
Before I start out.... No, I won't get rid of the mechanical fan and go all electric. I like the maximum cooling setup that came with the tow package. The tranny feels mint due to it and my 25K ATF drains from the aftermarket drain plug. Still, I will do all I can to minimize the losses.
Parasitic loss#1 - Old water pump was binding up. I could barely move it by hand. I should have changed it a long time ago. Going forward, I will periodically remove serpentine belt and spin the water pump at the pulley, to see if it's binding. Suggest y'all try this periodically, esp if pump hasn't been done in a while. Before you do that, you can also grab the fan blade and rock it back and forth. If it's rocking, your WP bearings are likely shot.
Parasitic loss#2 - Optimizing fan clutch. While the fan/clutch was removed, I sprayed PB Blaster in the center, right on the bi-metal thermal spring and the valve to which it is attached. The result seems to be full disengagement of the fan at highway speeds and idling while cool. The clutch was not working as efficiently as it could have been it seems Freeing up the valve with the penetrant made a difference. Less roar and sounds more like a V8 sedan now. There are also videos online on how to manually adjust a mechanical fan clutch by moving the spring's anchored end into a different slot on the clutch assembly. Going 1 slot counter-clockwise means the clutch will lock up faster. Going clockwise means the clutch will disengage faster. Unfortunately I didn't get to try it. I came across the info after buttoning it all up.
Parasitic loss#3 - Dry pulleys. Wasn't experiencing an issue, just passing along the info. Anytime you get the opportunity and have the belt off, spin everything by hand and also regrease any dry sounding pulleys. A tiny flat screwdriver can be slipped under the inner circumference of the bearing seals (which won't leak due to centrifugal forces) and the seal can be removed. I popped off the grease seals and regreased the idler and tensioner pulleys again by simply pushing in grease with my fingers.
Parasitic loss#4 - Thick oil. Been running 0W20 full syn for years. If you haven't tried this oil in your Dak, you should. Torture test have shown that this oil has a tougher film than thicker oils. Dodge dealerships are using 5W20 as standard fill for all 4.7L. With 0W, I'm getting faster flow when cold.
The Dak idles like a sewing machine now and accelerates very briskly.
Before I start out.... No, I won't get rid of the mechanical fan and go all electric. I like the maximum cooling setup that came with the tow package. The tranny feels mint due to it and my 25K ATF drains from the aftermarket drain plug. Still, I will do all I can to minimize the losses.
Parasitic loss#1 - Old water pump was binding up. I could barely move it by hand. I should have changed it a long time ago. Going forward, I will periodically remove serpentine belt and spin the water pump at the pulley, to see if it's binding. Suggest y'all try this periodically, esp if pump hasn't been done in a while. Before you do that, you can also grab the fan blade and rock it back and forth. If it's rocking, your WP bearings are likely shot.
Parasitic loss#2 - Optimizing fan clutch. While the fan/clutch was removed, I sprayed PB Blaster in the center, right on the bi-metal thermal spring and the valve to which it is attached. The result seems to be full disengagement of the fan at highway speeds and idling while cool. The clutch was not working as efficiently as it could have been it seems Freeing up the valve with the penetrant made a difference. Less roar and sounds more like a V8 sedan now. There are also videos online on how to manually adjust a mechanical fan clutch by moving the spring's anchored end into a different slot on the clutch assembly. Going 1 slot counter-clockwise means the clutch will lock up faster. Going clockwise means the clutch will disengage faster. Unfortunately I didn't get to try it. I came across the info after buttoning it all up.
Parasitic loss#3 - Dry pulleys. Wasn't experiencing an issue, just passing along the info. Anytime you get the opportunity and have the belt off, spin everything by hand and also regrease any dry sounding pulleys. A tiny flat screwdriver can be slipped under the inner circumference of the bearing seals (which won't leak due to centrifugal forces) and the seal can be removed. I popped off the grease seals and regreased the idler and tensioner pulleys again by simply pushing in grease with my fingers.
Parasitic loss#4 - Thick oil. Been running 0W20 full syn for years. If you haven't tried this oil in your Dak, you should. Torture test have shown that this oil has a tougher film than thicker oils. Dodge dealerships are using 5W20 as standard fill for all 4.7L. With 0W, I'm getting faster flow when cold.
The Dak idles like a sewing machine now and accelerates very briskly.
Last edited by Dodgevity; 11-20-2018 at 08:15 AM.
