Hardwire bypass foglight switch for HID setup.
#1
03-07-2010, 11:57 PM
Hardwire bypass foglight switch for HID setup.
This is for when you use HID headlights on our trucks, to get the headlights to work correctly.. Fixes the following problems.
1. Flickers
2. Random lights going off
3. Sticking Hi Beams
4. high Beam dash light
5. Bypass fog light cut off when using hi beams
6. Allows you to use 4x fog lights and Headlights if you wanted to (other 2 fog-lights would be halogen stock using factory harnesses)
7. Blow fuses/relay harness burn outs ect using stock switch
Things needed:
1 roll of 16 gauge red wire (power to HIDs)
1 roll of 16 gauge black wire (ground to HIDs)
1 roll of 10 gauge red wire (power to battery/switch)
1 roll of 10 gauge black wire (ground wire switch)
1x 10-20amp Fuse Holder 12-10gauge
1 box of wire connectors 10gauge
1 box of wire connectors 16gauge
1 box of female/male connectors 16gauge (quick disconnects)
1 box of female/male connectors 10gauge (quick disconnects)
1 box of 10gauge ground mount rings
Electrical Tape
Friction Tape
Drill Bit small - size of switch
File
Wire cutters/crimps
1. The first thing i did was take the dash off 2001
2. Found a decent spot to mount the switch which was on the lower part (NOT ON THE BEZAL)
3. I drilled out a decent size hole and then used a file to make the notch for the switch so it would not turn, then i filed it out big enough for the switch to fit into, but small enough to make it VERY tight.
4. test fit the switch in the hole.
5. Run the 2 16gauge black and red wires and the 10gauge red wire through the rubber grommet (see photo)
6. Use a 10gauge female connector to wire in the 10gauge black ground and the 16gauge ground to the switch. 2 wires will be coming out, every other connector will only have 1 wire.
7. Run the 10gauge wire to the ground nut under the grommet you ran the wires through make sure its long enough.
8. use a 10gauge and 16gauge female connectors to mount the other wires to the back of the switch, you will need a ground to chassis and HID, + to battery with fuse inline 10-20amp, and + to source (HIDS).
9. Mount the switch and pull all slack out of wires and ziptie to make them neat under the dash. You are now done with the switch.
10. Cut the 10gauge Red to battery wire for the 10-20amp fuse holder use the 10gauge connectors to connect it
11. Run the 16gauge red/black wires around the fuse box and under the battery box (following the stock wire harness down to the fog lights)
Your wire is now ready and you can now start mounting the Ballist hangers/mounts.
12. Refer to photos on where i mounted the ballasts they are right behind each headlight on a piece of the frame bracket they fit perfect i just so happened to have 2 screws that where able to thread themselves into the holes and keep the brackets in place.
13. Once brackets are installed put the ballasts in the brackets and use a screw driver or pick to pull out the locking pin to make sure the ballast doesn't fly out of the holder. Leave the HID bulbs in the cases while you run the wires down to the fogs, you don't want to break them.
14. Make sure all the connectors for the ballast and the bulbs are connected should be 3 total leaving 2 male prongs that are suppose to plug into the stock harness, but doing that for some reason on our trucks ****s the whole system up, and causes some of them to no power on, or flicker, or just not work correctly.
15. Take the bulbs out of the housings. Remove BOTH plastic washers, and only use the rubber washer, push the bulb in tight and turn. Should fit perfect for the 880 housings.
16. tuck the stock harness up somewhere and ziptie it off... as you dont need it. (Side thought is that you can still use your factory fogs and mount 2 extra bulbs somewhere if you want as the switch with halogen bulbs will still work fine, this allows you to use 4x fogs and 2 headlights.. if you wanted to.
17. Now its time to wire up the fogs, you should have a LOT of extra 16gauge red/black wire cut the wire to give you slack to run it down to the first driver side bulb.
18. Cut another 2 pieces red/black about 4-5in long
19. Cut another 2 pieces about 3foot long
20. The wires coming down to the driver side bulb attach a 10gauge connector to it.
21. Twist the 5in and 3foot wires together on one end and put them on the other side of the connector like a "Y" the short part will go to the driver side bulb and the long part will go to the passenger side bulb.
22. At the end of the pieces to the bulbs attach male quick disconnects to the them for + and - and connect them to the male prongs on the hid bulb harness, do this on both sides.
23. Ziptie and tuck the wire, electric tape up everything and use whatever else you want to make it look factory wire loom, whatever.
24. Attach the 10gauge power to the battery and turn the switch on... you should have 2 perfectly running Fog lamps in HID that stay on with the bright on, and also do not affect the Headlight HIDs at all
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1. Flickers
2. Random lights going off
3. Sticking Hi Beams
4. high Beam dash light
5. Bypass fog light cut off when using hi beams
6. Allows you to use 4x fog lights and Headlights if you wanted to (other 2 fog-lights would be halogen stock using factory harnesses)
7. Blow fuses/relay harness burn outs ect using stock switch
Things needed:
1 roll of 16 gauge red wire (power to HIDs)
1 roll of 16 gauge black wire (ground to HIDs)
1 roll of 10 gauge red wire (power to battery/switch)
1 roll of 10 gauge black wire (ground wire switch)
1x 10-20amp Fuse Holder 12-10gauge
1 box of wire connectors 10gauge
1 box of wire connectors 16gauge
1 box of female/male connectors 16gauge (quick disconnects)
1 box of female/male connectors 10gauge (quick disconnects)
1 box of 10gauge ground mount rings
Electrical Tape
Friction Tape
Drill Bit small - size of switch
File
Wire cutters/crimps
1. The first thing i did was take the dash off 2001
2. Found a decent spot to mount the switch which was on the lower part (NOT ON THE BEZAL)
3. I drilled out a decent size hole and then used a file to make the notch for the switch so it would not turn, then i filed it out big enough for the switch to fit into, but small enough to make it VERY tight.
4. test fit the switch in the hole.
5. Run the 2 16gauge black and red wires and the 10gauge red wire through the rubber grommet (see photo)
6. Use a 10gauge female connector to wire in the 10gauge black ground and the 16gauge ground to the switch. 2 wires will be coming out, every other connector will only have 1 wire.
7. Run the 10gauge wire to the ground nut under the grommet you ran the wires through make sure its long enough.
8. use a 10gauge and 16gauge female connectors to mount the other wires to the back of the switch, you will need a ground to chassis and HID, + to battery with fuse inline 10-20amp, and + to source (HIDS).
9. Mount the switch and pull all slack out of wires and ziptie to make them neat under the dash. You are now done with the switch.
10. Cut the 10gauge Red to battery wire for the 10-20amp fuse holder use the 10gauge connectors to connect it
11. Run the 16gauge red/black wires around the fuse box and under the battery box (following the stock wire harness down to the fog lights)
Your wire is now ready and you can now start mounting the Ballist hangers/mounts.
12. Refer to photos on where i mounted the ballasts they are right behind each headlight on a piece of the frame bracket they fit perfect i just so happened to have 2 screws that where able to thread themselves into the holes and keep the brackets in place.
13. Once brackets are installed put the ballasts in the brackets and use a screw driver or pick to pull out the locking pin to make sure the ballast doesn't fly out of the holder. Leave the HID bulbs in the cases while you run the wires down to the fogs, you don't want to break them.
14. Make sure all the connectors for the ballast and the bulbs are connected should be 3 total leaving 2 male prongs that are suppose to plug into the stock harness, but doing that for some reason on our trucks ****s the whole system up, and causes some of them to no power on, or flicker, or just not work correctly.
15. Take the bulbs out of the housings. Remove BOTH plastic washers, and only use the rubber washer, push the bulb in tight and turn. Should fit perfect for the 880 housings.
16. tuck the stock harness up somewhere and ziptie it off... as you dont need it. (Side thought is that you can still use your factory fogs and mount 2 extra bulbs somewhere if you want as the switch with halogen bulbs will still work fine, this allows you to use 4x fogs and 2 headlights.. if you wanted to.
17. Now its time to wire up the fogs, you should have a LOT of extra 16gauge red/black wire cut the wire to give you slack to run it down to the first driver side bulb.
18. Cut another 2 pieces red/black about 4-5in long
19. Cut another 2 pieces about 3foot long
20. The wires coming down to the driver side bulb attach a 10gauge connector to it.
21. Twist the 5in and 3foot wires together on one end and put them on the other side of the connector like a "Y" the short part will go to the driver side bulb and the long part will go to the passenger side bulb.
22. At the end of the pieces to the bulbs attach male quick disconnects to the them for + and - and connect them to the male prongs on the hid bulb harness, do this on both sides.
23. Ziptie and tuck the wire, electric tape up everything and use whatever else you want to make it look factory wire loom, whatever.
24. Attach the 10gauge power to the battery and turn the switch on... you should have 2 perfectly running Fog lamps in HID that stay on with the bright on, and also do not affect the Headlight HIDs at all
0IMG00048-20100306-1657.jpg
5IMG00049-20100306-1700.jpg
4
16IMG00038-20100306-1645.jpg
12IMG00033-20100306-1643.jpg
13IMG00034-20100306-1643.jpg
14IMG00035-20100306-1643.jpg
15IMG00036-20100306-1644.jpg
17
18IMG00040-20100306-1650.jpg
20IMG00037-20100306-1644.jpg
19IMG00041-20100306-1654.jpg
1IMG00042-20100306-1655.jpg
7IMG00051-20100306-1753.jpg
2IMG00045-20100306-1656.jpg
3IMG00046-20100306-1656.jpg
9IMG00053-20100306-1815.jpg
10IMG00054-20100306-1815.jpg
6IMG00050-20100306-1752.jpg
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Last edited by User; 04-07-2010 at 02:24 AM.
#4
03-08-2010, 02:43 PM
Grand Champion
#5
03-09-2010, 04:56 AM
Here are pics of the same set of my 2000 that burnt down, below are the links to the HID Kits.
9007 for heads i use 55wat
880s for fogs (use 35wat "standard") otherwise the 55wat will melt the fog light housing.
Headlights - http://www.mydepots.com/55w-hid-kit-bixenon-p-12.html
Foglights - http://www.mydepots.com/normal-hid-k...-beam-p-1.html
Click here to see them on the 2000 r/t, middle row first 5 photos across.
http://www.dfwdakotas.com/DFWDakotaS...er_photos.html
#6
03-09-2010, 10:26 AM
Grand Champion
#7
03-09-2010, 03:05 PM
The stock housings do not have this cut off line and cause lots of glare. Which sometimes can annoy other people. I had them on m 2000 for awhile and got flashed about 5 times because of my HIDs i just flashed them back using hibeam HID to let them know that was my low beam im sure that pissed them off even more if they thought the low beam was bright.
The projectors they make for the Dakotas are ugly as hell, so i got a pair of these to use, they are the same one i used on my 2000.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...K%3AMEWNX%3AIT
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#9
03-25-2010, 02:28 AM