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Rear wheels locking Not ABS Related

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  #11  
Old 08-30-2013, 11:57 AM
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When you replace the shoes and have the drums resurfaced, put a new set of wheel cylinders in as well. They're really cheap and can solve a host of problems--you may have a wheel cylinder piston that's hanging up some of the time.
 
  #12  
Old 08-30-2013, 12:02 PM
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I retract my last comment..... i pressed the brake pedal, and the P/S cylinder blew apart and that whole side is outta whack now.... LOL

Brian in tucson, that is the plan, at the moment my truck is on jack stands and wont come off until the job is done, replaced the Rack n pinion, the clutch master/slave cylinder with a system that has no air in it, and now ima smack this rear brake problem around until its solved, this should be a fun first time doing drum brakes..........

Edit, LMAO someone just told me i wasnt supposed to touch the brake pedal while the drums are off..... hahahaha trial n error is a fun game
 

Last edited by LosadaMichael; 08-30-2013 at 12:05 PM.
  #13  
Old 08-30-2013, 12:42 PM
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Did you press the pedal with the drum off? If so that'll cause the rubber ends of the wheel cylinder to pop off and explode brake fluid.

You keep braking and braking but there's nothing to stop the brakes from expanding. That's the drums job.

May need to replace the cylinder if they ate old and filthy but most times you would be okay popping the rubber ends back on.
 
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Old 08-30-2013, 12:45 PM
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Originally Posted by sxrsil3nt
Did you press the pedal with the drum off? If so that'll cause the rubber ends of the wheel cylinder to pop off and explode brake fluid.

You keep braking and braking but there's nothing to stop the brakes from expanding. That's the drums job.

May need to replace the cylinder if they ate old and filthy but most times you would be okay popping the rubber ends back on.
yes i pressed the pedal with the drums off.... the D/S did not explode or fall apart like the P/S did... but im sure everything needs to be replaced, shoes, cylinders, springs

EDIT: Anyone got a diagram of the brakes, i can find some online but theyre not identical
 

Last edited by LosadaMichael; 08-30-2013 at 01:27 PM.
  #15  
Old 08-30-2013, 01:37 PM
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If they were down to metal they can grab and that may be what is going on.

I'm thinking one side of the cylinder is locked up on you. Be very careful replacing the cylinders you can snap off the brake line with ease don't twist the line at all be very careful you can pull the line back a bit the line will bend just don't overdo it just enough to get the line off and out of the way.

You don't want to need to replace the brake line major problem if that happens.

If the brake fluid keeps dripping out on you you may need to plug them up as you don't want to get air in the master cylinder.

This usually doesn't happen but be aware of this if you see brake fluid dripping and dripping constantly.


You should flush all the DOT 3 out after you finish the breaks as the fluid may be old just bleed the system till new Dot 3 comes out the bleeder but don't let the master cylinder get so low it starts sucking air in it keep adding fluid as you flush the system out.


Watch a few YouTube vids on this flushing the braking system out and how to bleed the system to be sure you understand this as this is something most screw up if new to this.
 
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Old 08-30-2013, 01:45 PM
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Originally Posted by 98DAKAZ
If they were down to metal they can grab and that may be what is going on.

I'm thinking one side of the cylinder is locked up on you. Be very careful replacing the cylinders you can snap off the brake line with ease don't twist the line at all be very careful you can pull the line back a bit the line will bend just don't overdo it just enough to get the line off and out of the way.

You don't want to need to replace the brake line major problem if that happens.

If the brake fluid keeps dripping out on you you may need to plug them up as you don't want to get air in the master cylinder.

This usually doesn't happen but be aware of this if you see brake fluid dripping and dripping constantly.


You should flush all the DOT 3 out after you finish the breaks as the fluid may be old just bleed the system till new Dot 3 comes out the bleeder but don't let the master cylinder get so low it starts sucking air in it keep adding fluid as you flush the system out.


Watch a few YouTube vids on this flushing the braking system out and how to bleed the system to be sure you understand this as this is something most screw up if new to this.
+1 be very careful when you replace the wheel cylinders as you need to remove the brake lines. Soak them in penetrating oil for a couple days and use heat (blow torch works well) to get it off. Use a flare nut wrench and if you don't have one - buy one.

I stripped my brake line nut when I did my wheel cylinders... not fun.

Don't forget to bleed your brakes.
 
  #17  
Old 08-30-2013, 03:11 PM
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Get the service manual on this forum and follow it

Remember with the 2.5L engine you should have the 9" drums look in your glove Box for this info should be a sticker on the door so all your parts are for the 9" brakes.

LINK


My Photobucket Pic's on the rear Brakes LINK I hope the link works with Photobuck its hit and miss

Remember each side is like a reverse of the other side. So do one side then the other side so things don't get confusing and take some pictures for your self so you can remember how to put it back together.

And check to be sure it was correct to begin with check the service manual you never know the last person may have put it together wrong.
 

Last edited by 98DAKAZ; 08-30-2013 at 03:37 PM.
  #18  
Old 08-30-2013, 05:24 PM
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Thats it i give up, im never touching drum brakes again, all new shoes, new spring kits, new wheel cylinder, and im stuck........... Took it apart, it wont go back together, i dont have 6 hands to hold the shoes in place and put the springs in place as well......

i would much rather tear apart manual transmissions than to tamper with drum brakes, im Done, not touching them, F%&K Drum brakes, i guess im stuck here at my shop until i can get someone to come and show me how to do mission impossible, cause i aint doin it, im too damn big to be rollin around doin this, ive done some hard things before, but this tops the cake........

EDIT: I see your pics, but i dont get how to start in reverse order, everything falls off/apart.

And that Wire, i dont understand how im supposed to put the loop before putting the springs, because the wire will try to come around the front of the clip, and then when i do get the loop in place, i cant turn the spring to put it in place over the loop because the wire ***** the clip sideways so i cant turn the spring to put it in place........ Seriously yo?
 

Last edited by LosadaMichael; 08-30-2013 at 05:41 PM.
  #19  
Old 08-30-2013, 06:22 PM
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C clamps to hold the shoes to the backing plate to get started. Then those little post/spring/eye retainers. The hardest part for me has always been to get those cross springs in--vice grip needle nose pliers help for that. I have an actual drum brake spring tool--even works (sometimes.)

It CAN be done! I've done motorhome drum brakes--they're like 3 times harder to get back together.

If at first you don't succeed, try, try again!
 
  #20  
Old 08-30-2013, 07:07 PM
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Yea they can be a Pain to hold in place and put together but not imposable just kind of hard.

Some C-clamps do help but slide off on you also two people is the way to go one to hold and one to put the springs in.

Just relax and go at it again its better than paying some shop $150 to do it
 


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