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Manifold bolts broke off in head. Should I .....

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Old 01-15-2014, 12:38 PM
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Default Manifold bolts broke off in head. Should I .....

Truck is a 97 3.9L 4x4 automatic trans.

Thought I had a lifter peck until I checked. Both bolts holding the manifold on #3 port (driver's side middle cylinder) are broken off. I can see part of the stud on 1 of the bolts but haven't checked the depth on the other to see if it is flush with the block or not.

Don't want to remove the head. Stealership wants $300 labor plus parts If they don't remove the head.

Should I soak the remaining down in PB Blaster everyday for about a week or so then get the engine up to operating temp and try to remove the remaining manifold bolts or what.

Anybody got any ideals or faced this situation?
 
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Old 01-15-2014, 01:26 PM
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I assume you are talking about exhaust manifold? I have had this happen on my 4.7. On mine, only the head of the bolt snapped off. I was able to remove all the good bolts, pull the manifold away from the head without removing the exhaust pipe, enough so I could use a small vicegrip on the remaining stub, and removed the broken bolt that way. Be very careful when removing the good bolts, that you dont round off the heads, or you will have to cut the heads off the bolts. I dont know about your 3.9, but the bolts used on my 4.7 have pathetically small heads, and I think the heat softens up the metal, so they are very easy to damage. My exhaust gasket is metal, and I was able to reuse it.
Hope this helps.
 
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Old 01-15-2014, 01:36 PM
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soaking with pb blaster for a few days is a good prep after that this works good

items needed
mapgas torch
spray bottle with water
center punch sharp one
left handed drill bit
small ball peen hammer
lots of Patience

heat the aera around the stud with the map gas torch for 45 seconds or so then spray the bolt 3 or 4 shots of water then try drilling it out with left handed drill or
if you can use center punch and gently tap on the outside of the bolt in a counter clock wise rotation and walk the bolt out this takes lots of light tapping to do it don't hammer just tap it

you are using the theory of expansion and contraction I have used this many times i prefer to put a center punch in the center try a small left drill then use the punch around it about every 2 or 3 minutes heat it up again and spray the bolt with water

keep punch sharp real sharp like a pin
 
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Old 01-16-2014, 12:31 AM
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Depends if they a flush with the head. Much easier if they are sticking out. I've saw guys weld a big nut on them with a good hot weld and they have came right out.
 
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Old 01-16-2014, 11:08 AM
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Thanks for all the good info.

It is the exhaust manifold I'm talkin bout.

This will be a summer project so everybody but me will forget about this but I will report back to let everbody know how it went.

So far my summer projects include

replacing both front axles (4x4)
shocks on front
maybe hubs depends on result of axle replacement
cat replacement
both O2
changing both brake cylinders (swap sides and replace bleed screws) see https://dodgeforum.com/forum/2nd-gen...own-tools.html
get E-brake cable adjustment freed (rusted can't adjust)
replacin CB and cell antennas
patchin rust spots (mostly on underside of extended cab just fill with expanding foam)
fixin rear bumper now just have a reese hitch no bumper see https://dodgeforum.com/forum/3035659-post13.html
maybe take ladder rack off

and anything else that might pop-up between now and then.
 



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