ok so i have been building my 97 dakota for about 3 months now. before i started the truck was totally stock. aside from then cold air intake and some beefy 31 x 10.50s

ok so i started by doing a torsion bar key lift with a 3 inch lift. blocked the rear and with home made blocks. i then did a 2 in body lift. from there i installed the interior from a 1999 slt. i modded the center heater vent to hold 3 gauges. i removed the dash completely and modded it so i could install my linear then i covered it with a soft fabric. i then used the location of the passangers air bag. and the top of the glove box to install the CB and wiring. i used the aux power hole to install a 100 amp power switch for the fog light that i mounted on the role bar in the bed. i drilled a hole in the bed light location on the upper brake light to run the wiring for the CB antenna and fog lights and my caution and work light. this was then resealed. all the wiring was run threw the head liner so you dont ever see it. the light controls were all consealed in the center arm rest. the dash was painted silver one the front. i added power windows and locks. also installed an external unlock button do to not having a BCM to run the locks i couldnt use the key fob from the '99. i replaced both the head lights and tail lights with blacked out ones. and the head lights are a solid light instead of the split turns and head lights. under the lights im building a custom front bumper which will hold the winch and have my plow frame build right on to it. (i plan to use the plow frame to hole my D rings in the off seasons. i changed the black grill for a crome one to accent the lights and give the nose a little lift. i changed the windshild washers to lighted crome one installed in the hood to cut the hood lines a little. also adding a windshield visor or cab marker lights not sure which yet. also building a rear bumper which will have a resessed plate holder and tow hitch mount included. i removed the spare from under the bed and installed a holder in the rear of the bed agenst the cab which i plan to install rear work lights on in the future for when you loading the trailer or starting the fire on that field some where or what ever other reason one could think to use them. Streight piped 3'' from the down pipe thur the cat to the bumper. stainless steel

now.... save the best for last. i modded the kegger intake a few years back on my other motor. i finely got it sent out and build the 390 stroker. i had RPM in vermont build it for me. i havent gotting to put it in yet but i did install the high flow water pump 160 amp alt. 180 T stat. a center force 2 disk ceramic clutch. with the force pressure plate. both front and rear diffs are locked thanks to detroit. and with a nice set of 4.56 gears to complete the package. i think the kumo 35 x 12.50 15s that santa dropped off to the shop will have no issue covering my rusted flat black truck with mud. and i hoping it will still be able to smoke that pretty mustang down the street, i dont see when the extra ponys and gearing wont over come the weight and tire size do you??

Questions for the public:

extra gas tank yes or no?
lift 6 more inches or leave good enough alone?
removing front sway bar?
rancho or rough country?
wheel spacers or offset rims?
stock seats or Race seats?
streight pipe or flow master super 44.
LED or HID fog lights
HID or LED head lights
Body part company??

i think that about all. ill have pictures up as soon as i can organize them all and figure out hot to attach them. also i didnt get everything pictured. and the bumpers are still in build so i will be adding much more to this post. ask me anything you would like to know ill try to explain my best or answer in a timely manner. providing i know the answer.

 

I'd definitely love to see some pics, especially of the interior... I'm curious to see what you've done.

I would vote rims over wheel spacers - I love the look of wide rims, but I don't like the idea of wheel spacers. Heard some nightmare stories, but I can't attest to them.

I've keep stock seats over race seats, especially in a lifted 4x4 mudder.

How would you accomplish the extra 6 inches? I'm sure you're closer to just doing an SAS.

 

no need for extra fuel tank, unless you want to remove the factory one and just one in the bed.

You can pull the front bar, but the truck will have a little more roll to it.
offset wheels over spacers
keep the mufflers, but add cutouts infront of them
HID lamps
Seats are your preference.

 

ok so im going to try and add photos its gonna be a lot because its about 3 or 4 months with the before and afters so bare with me here. i think the end product will be nice.

 

http://s942.photobucket.com/user/mat...114/slideshow/

please flip threw and enjoy also share if youd please. this is 5 years, two shops and one prison term. over the last 3 months i have collected and reassembled this truck and hopefully this week will be close to finishing it. and putting it on the road.

 

Ahhh the reality of NY salted roads! I grew up in Upstate near Saratoga. Know all too well how vehicles deteriorate in that area. Since you have quite a bit of rust in the fender wells already, forget the 6" lift and go with some Bushwacker Cutouts and they will give you more room for bigger tires= more ground clearance. You can cut most of the rust out in the process. It's a win/win.

 

yea i also just got harrassed..... in this wonderful state you cant have the bottom of your bumper be over 37 inches in hight.

 

surprised they didn't snag you for the headlights being too high.

What i have seen done, is put a 2" square tube on the "real" bumper, then make a road-legal secondary bumper that slides into it like a trailer hitch. problem solved.

 

the headlights arnt an issue as of yet because its on a dealer tag. also im trying to figure out the plate thing, i need to have it mounted on the front bumper and visable but i
have a winch mount that is 27 inches and the bumper face is only 43 inches wide. the normal plate is 12 x 6 and normal numbers and letter on the plate are 9.5 inches im hoping to have just enought room to mount this plate flat and have all the letters visable but if i cant does anyone have any ideas on what i can do aside from mounting it one the 30 degree angle and saying **** the poo poo

 

That's quite a conundrum. I don't know if it's legal there, but here in texas, as long as the plate is there, you wont normally get harrassed. I've seen license plates that have been center punched by trailer hitches and barely legible and front ones that are barely there. On trailers, half the time the plate is mounted vertically on the fender along the curve at the top, not even illuminated.

I think you'll be fine if the last digit hangs off the 30 degree arm. Just mount the main part of it, and fold the rest back with a hammer.