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3.92 Rear End With Magnum 3.9

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  #11  
Old 12-13-2013, 12:20 AM
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I appreciate that tid-bit there, but she's a five speed. I don't want to go as far as 4.56s yet I still have to go to college haha. Also any input about doing the axle flip and leveling kit ? I could also just change the gear and not the axle I just haven't found the gear by itself yet.
 

Last edited by Josh17; 12-13-2013 at 12:22 AM.
  #12  
Old 12-13-2013, 02:03 AM
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Originally Posted by Josh17
I appreciate that tid-bit there, but she's a five speed. I don't want to go as far as 4.56s yet I still have to go to college haha. Also any input about doing the axle flip and leveling kit ? I could also just change the gear and not the axle I just haven't found the gear by itself yet.
gear setup is a meticulous process to do on your own and risk not doing it right. They usually run $250-$350 depending on brand, then 3-4 install hours on labor. My 4.10's were 1K out the door.

I was just saying that 4.56's will bring a V6 up to the V8 level of torque, but at the grave loss of fuel mileage due to higher RPM. Most of the ram guys go to 4.56's because they have a tall OD and tall tire that makes it work. If I was race-only, I'd go to 56's or maybe even 88's in a heartbeat. What i'm going to do instead is keep the 4.10's and run a 26" slick for a 5.00 effective ratio or 24.5" slick for a 5.18 ratio, and just change tires at the track. I can use a stock 15" wheel from the rimyard/junkyard for $35 a piece and pick from two Mickey Thompson tires- #'s 3015 (24.5 x 8 - 15, $203 each) , or 3052 (26 x 8.5 - 15, $183 each). That will also drop the back end down, helping to get some weight transfer to where there's no static weight at.

But I have to get the axle locked up first. Not looking forward to another $800 bill to put a lunchbox locker in the diff carrier.
 

Last edited by magnethead; 12-13-2013 at 02:18 AM.
  #13  
Old 12-13-2013, 02:45 AM
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That was very informative. Thank you !
 
  #14  
Old 12-13-2013, 07:54 AM
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Originally Posted by Josh17
That was very informative. Thank you !
yea, the shop that I use charges more, but he used to work at a mercedes dealership and has a whole rap sheet of experience. Now he runs an off-road shop in Dallas. I forget what his labor rate is since we get a *slightly* lower rate on our racing stuff, but it's still 3 digits an hour.

I have nitro gears in mine, a quality but low cost brand. USA standard is another such company.

The 4.10's for the chry 8-1/4 are $190
The 4.10's for the chry 9-1/4 are $260
The lunchbox locker for the chry 8-1/4 is $450
The lunchbox locker for the chry 9-1/4 is $480
 
  #15  
Old 12-13-2013, 07:00 PM
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I'm guessing I have the 8-1/4 ?
 
  #16  
Old 12-13-2013, 07:25 PM
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Originally Posted by Josh17
I'm guessing I have the 8-1/4 ?
The easy way to tell, count the cover bolts. If you have 10, it's the 8 1/4.
If you have 12, it's the 9 1/4".
 
  #17  
Old 12-13-2013, 07:54 PM
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Originally Posted by magnethead
Not looking forward to another $800 bill to put a lunchbox locker in the diff carrier.
From what I know about you, you would have no trouble at all installing a lunchbox locker yourself, assuming you currently have an open rear diff. I've done several of them myself (Lock-right, Spartan, and some other piece of crap I can't remember the name of) and I can say that if it takes you more than an hour, you're doing it wrong. You don't even need to remove the carrier from the truck. Just pull the cover and the axles (again, assuming you have a stock open carrier now).

Of the three, I would recommend the Spartan for ease of installation. The Spartan and the Lock-right were both trouble-free once installed, but the Spartan was easier and seemed a little stronger just by visual inspection.
 
  #18  
Old 12-13-2013, 09:41 PM
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Originally Posted by Tom A
From what I know about you, you would have no trouble at all installing a lunchbox locker yourself, assuming you currently have an open rear diff. I've done several of them myself (Lock-right, Spartan, and some other piece of crap I can't remember the name of) and I can say that if it takes you more than an hour, you're doing it wrong. You don't even need to remove the carrier from the truck. Just pull the cover and the axles (again, assuming you have a stock open carrier now).

Of the three, I would recommend the Spartan for ease of installation. The Spartan and the Lock-right were both trouble-free once installed, but the Spartan was easier and seemed a little stronger just by visual inspection.
Since I have the 4.10's already, the ring has to come off for the cross-pin to come out. Otherwise you bet I'd be doing it at home. >.>
 
  #19  
Old 12-13-2013, 09:44 PM
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Ah, bummer. It can still be a DIY job, but that certainly makes for a lot more work.
 
  #20  
Old 03-25-2018, 01:18 PM
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Default i need a rear end

I have a 1997 dodge Dakota with a gear ratio of 3.92..... I need help finding a new one I tried everywhere
 


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