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Uppers and Lowers need replaced

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  #21  
Old 02-10-2014, 01:34 PM
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Originally Posted by 00DakDan
Robbadodge, the pickle fork should be able to separate the ball joint.
All this is detailed in the first sticky on this forum.

https://dodgeforum.com/forum/2nd-gen...ta-cc-4wd.html

 
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  #22  
Old 02-10-2014, 01:38 PM
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In one of my posts: "Purchased 2 MOOG during drive home and rented the "wedge removal tool"." (aka, pickle fork)

Originally Posted by 01SilverCC
That happened on my truck too. I believe I used a 4 1/2" electric cut off wheel to cut the nut off.
GREAT IDEA!

Originally Posted by Robbadodge
Stupid question: now that I've grind off the nut, how do I press it out?
What an idiot, cutting the nut off is the same as removing it like you did on the passenger side. Use the wedge removal tool, you buthead!

Originally Posted by 01SilverCC
When I removed mine I just used a pickle fork and a BFH to loosen the ball joint out of the hole.
That's the ticket! ~light bulb ignition~

Originally Posted by 00DakDan
Robbadodge, the pickle fork should be able to separate the ball joint.
Yup, I missed the obvious!

Thanks a ton y'all! Next time (if there ever is a next time), why use a dang hammer at all, cut off wheel was like cutting through butter. Then, use the dang pickle fork, ya dork, Robb!

Whew!!!!!
 
  #23  
Old 02-10-2014, 01:49 PM
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Originally Posted by Dodgevity
All this is detailed in the first sticky on this forum.
That is actually the one I studied, then I found a video on youtube to get more comfortable. Quite a peace of cake, once the obvious comes to you by way of this forum
 
  #24  
Old 02-11-2014, 06:18 PM
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I'm not sure how many people in this forum know this, but you really don't need a pickle fork to get the ball joint loose from the steering knuckle...... might be an old school way, but i learned to just hit the steering knuckle where the stud of the ball joint goes in, and after a few good smacks it pops right out....... my opinion is quicker than a pickle fork, i know i've popped them out with one or two hits with the hammer...... just don't miss, lol. same thing with tie-rod ends if you don't want to tear the rubber boot if your not changing the tie rod or ball joint, i know pickle forks are notorious for tearing the boots, just for future ref. i know it's a little late now, but might be a good piece of info. for somebody....... that $25 for a new tie rod because you tore the boot with a pickle fork might come handy for gas, or another part down the road.
 
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Old 02-12-2014, 03:08 PM
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Originally Posted by rebeltaz83
I'm not sure how many people in this forum know this, but you really don't need a pickle fork to get the ball joint loose from the steering knuckle......
Saw that in some videos for the ball joint, but I've never worked on tie rods or any other suspension type item. You're saying it works the same, must be a nut to remove first, then bop on the top ball side?

The seals do get useless when using the fork.
 
  #26  
Old 02-14-2014, 09:19 AM
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yup, take the nut off like normal, then where the stud goes down in on the steering knuckle, hit the steering knuckle it's self, and the ball joint, or the tie rod will pop right out. works better on tie rods where you have more room to swing the hammer, but it saves the boot. don't hit the stud, but the part the stud goes into. nice and flat with a big hammer. give it a few smacks, and a tug with your hand to see if it's loose. saves the boot if your not gonna replace the part...... and putting it back together with a torn boot means your gonna be doing it again, but this time to fix either the tie rod, or the ball joint, lol. just an fyi for future work..... might save you a few bucks from renting a pickle fork.
 



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