I finally have the money to put a system in my truck I am going to make a sub box using MDF and fiberglass. I will be using 2 subs. I will be using these components.
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...-SPS-610C.html
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...e-SPS-610.html
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...-R2SD4-10.html

The way I understand it I have a total RMS of 720 watts and a total peak power of 1760 watts. I really need help finding an amp. I would like to have a 4-channel, class D an want is to be fairly small. Also what installation kit do I need? Please help me and thank you in advance.

I found these two amps. What do yall think about them.
http://soundstream.com/store/car-aud...x3/x3-2k4.html
http://www.lanzar.com/sku/RDA754D/Re...ange-Amplifier

 

None of your links work

 

Should be fixed now.

 

Anyone?

 

Things are different in the car audio world now. Good car audio costs less now than it did 10 years ago but most all of it is made overseas, and many amps are made in China now. Lots of different brands of amps all come from the same few factories now, the only difference is there may be some variance between internal components. It used to be that the best amps were built here in the USA and the best head units came from Japan.

That being said, you don't really need 1700 watts of power from your amp. If using only 2 of those Rockford subs you should be fine with an amp rated at 150 to 200 watts stereo into 4 ohms. The power will be rated higher when bridged and that is fine too. Sure the specs will say it puts out 1000 watts peak power but that is not important. 50 to 150 watts pewr channel RMS stereo will be fine, plus the amp will be smaller than other higher rated amps. Get a good amp from a reputable manufacturer.

The Autotek amps from Sonic do very well but don't cost a lot. If you look at one you will see on the input and output ends it looks exactly like the Lanzar in your link. They come from the same factory in China but have different looks to the chassis. I had an Autotek amp driving front and rear Alpine mids and highs and a single Alpine 10" sub and it did fine, was good and loud and did not cost a whole lot, it was $89.00 from Sonic. I also like the Sound Ordinance amps from Crutchfield. SO is Crutchfield's house brand, some say they are built in the same factory that builds Rockford. I had a SO 4 channel amp for a while last year and it did a good job too. The downside to SO is they are pretty big, may be larger than what you are looking for.

Best thing to do on selecting your amp is talk to friends and see what they use and how it sounds, whether they like it. Read the reviews online and buy from a reputable retailer that has at least a 60 day return policy in case you want something different. Lanzar was popular here in Florida back in the day but I always thought they had about the same reputation as Pyramid and Legacy, not really all that good.

As for the dash installation kit you need a Metra 99-6503. If buying form Amazon, here is a link for it:


You can get the same kit from Sonic. Autozone sells it too. The amp installation wiring kit depends on the current draw of the amp. Sonic and Crutchfield both offer deals on amp kits and may even throw in a kit for free when you buy from them. The amp specs online will usually tell you what size wire you need, but you have to watch it. The Autotek amp I had recommended 4 gauge wire but the power and ground inputs were only big enough for 8 gauge. There are 4 to 8 gauge adapters you can buy but the amp worked perfectly fine with the existing 8 gauge wire I already have in my truck. Also be careful of the wire you buy, try to get 100% oxygen free copper. A lot of car audio brands use wire that is part copper and part aluminum now, I guess that is because the price of copper has shot up so high in the last few years. 100% OFC wire will deliver the best power but if you can find it it will be more expensive than the cheaper wire.

Talk to the guys in tech support at Sonic and Crutchfield, they can help steer you in the right direction. The best way to tell what to buy is by seeing what other guys have in their own truck or car. The Alpine mids and highs you picked out will do fine, Alpine speakers have a real smooth sound and are usually pretty high quality. The JVC deck has MOSFET outputs so will be fairly loud on its own, and they do sound good. I had one in my truck a few years ago. That is the other thing to consider, if using the deck power for your mids and highs, you will not need a 10,000 jiggawatt bass amp because it will overpower the mids and highs so you can't hear them. So you don't need a super expensive big power bass amp with that system.

Jimmy

 

So you're using a 4 channel cause you also wanted to run your speakers through your amp?

I run my speakers (Kicker KS60's) through the head unit and they sound great, and I have a mono amp pushing 400 rms at 2 ohms powering my single sub.

If you wanna save a bit of money, look into mono amps if youre just wanting to run your subs through them.

 

How many doors is your Dakota and why do you specify class D? I'm running a 5 channel class A/B amp which handles all four door speakers, plus the sub-woofer channel. The power is so much that I have to keep the gain at a very low level. The amp accepts line level speaker inputs too but I'm feeding a single channel (RCA) from the HU, into an old equalizer which splits it into all the channels, including sub, going into the amp.

Here is the AMP:

Kenwood HU (love the bluetooth phone) with EQ down below....




You can build a custom box. In my case, I wanted my Quad cab's rear seating ability preserved. I bought a cheap 8" bandpass box, promptly ripped out the subwoofer and installed an *** kicking Cerwin Vega sub with a huge magnet. Yeah, a single 8" but this thing kicks (rattles everything in my garage) and with the quick disconnct plug, I can quickly remove it for full seating in the rear.

Tip for installing... Velcro sticks great under the seats but will not work on the floor carpeting. The mounting plates are lightweight aluminum (salvaged from a data center rack, LOL) screwed into the metal tubing skeleton - underside of the seat.



Seat down....

 

I'll third what they said. I'm running a pair of Visonic VB101PK amps- rated 70 watts RMS/300 peak at 4 ohms. Yes, you read that right.

I have one driving a Sony 8" sub in a self-made enclosure that is pinned between the front seat and back seat (ext cab). The other drives a 6.5" GM/"Monsoon" subwoofer in an even smaller self-made box pinned between the center console and back seat.

You wouldn't believe what that low power and 2 small subs will do.

I have the factory infiniti amp running the 4 speakers and 2 tweeters per the factory config, powered by I don't even remember what brand head unit. But lately as I approach volume levels 40 and up (lately i've been going to 45/50) the infinity amp has been cutting out my front doors whilst I can no longer use my left or center mirrors due to shaking.

 

Yep, a single small QUALITY sub, will do wonders... especially if said sub is enclosed in a bandpass box, which inherently amplifies the bass. The bandpass is a bit boomy but I've now adjusted it to a tight hit by lowering the frequency fed to it.

I replaced all the factory speakers with JBLs and ran new wiring from the HU to all door speakers. I had the headliner out anyway as I was replacing the sagger, so I ran most of the wiring in the roof.

 

I specified class D because the amp will be completely enclosed with some vents cut into the box. It is a club cab and I am building a custom sob box that replaces the tool tray under the back seat. Will running the speakers through the head unit make any difference in sound? I will look into mono amps. I have about $500 to spend on the amp.