No more Dak
#1
No more Dak
...for now. Blew the trans up for a 3rd time.
Balancing a couple different ideas, one of which being a Martin Saine setup, so I will be turn-key ready for a V8 swap down the road.
Looking to completely ditch the ABS computer and system, as well as EVAP. Trying to find out what flare and fitting size the master cylinder line ports are- looking to change them over to 3AN and plumb in the line locks.
Already did the over the frame exhaust dump and the spare is in the bed, next move is to reloc the battery to the bed and put a fuel cell where the spare belongs.
Balancing a couple different ideas, one of which being a Martin Saine setup, so I will be turn-key ready for a V8 swap down the road.
Looking to completely ditch the ABS computer and system, as well as EVAP. Trying to find out what flare and fitting size the master cylinder line ports are- looking to change them over to 3AN and plumb in the line locks.
Already did the over the frame exhaust dump and the spare is in the bed, next move is to reloc the battery to the bed and put a fuel cell where the spare belongs.
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#7
Sorry to hear about the tranny, mine had periodic slippage issues before I sold it.
Oh side note, HI GUYS! I swear I didn't die. Life got busy and I ended up having to sell Dakota, ran out of money and couldn't find a reputable shop to work on it. 3 shops and they burned up all my money to fix the poor truck. 3 years later and I still never had enough to fix the a/c. So it was time to cut my losses. So ya.... I don't have my Dakota anymore , 4 months later and I still miss it.
Oh side note, HI GUYS! I swear I didn't die. Life got busy and I ended up having to sell Dakota, ran out of money and couldn't find a reputable shop to work on it. 3 shops and they burned up all my money to fix the poor truck. 3 years later and I still never had enough to fix the a/c. So it was time to cut my losses. So ya.... I don't have my Dakota anymore , 4 months later and I still miss it.
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#8
Sorry to hear about the tranny, mine had periodic slippage issues before I sold it.
Oh side note, HI GUYS! I swear I didn't die. Life got busy and I ended up having to sell Dakota, ran out of money and couldn't find a reputable shop to work on it. 3 shops and they burned up all my money to fix the poor truck. 3 years later and I still never had enough to fix the a/c. So it was time to cut my losses. So ya.... I don't have my Dakota anymore , 4 months later and I still miss it.
Oh side note, HI GUYS! I swear I didn't die. Life got busy and I ended up having to sell Dakota, ran out of money and couldn't find a reputable shop to work on it. 3 shops and they burned up all my money to fix the poor truck. 3 years later and I still never had enough to fix the a/c. So it was time to cut my losses. So ya.... I don't have my Dakota anymore , 4 months later and I still miss it.
Title Was lost long ago, and it just isnt worth much, other than the 4.10'd mostly fresh axle and the stuff I've built up under the hood. I already sold the MSD ignition. Going to tow it home this weekend. Kinda hard to do anything with it.
Well, other than finish the fuel system relocation i was planning on doing anyways (but with a smaller tank), move the radiator to the bed, buy a Powerglide with mopar bell from local BTE dealer......
Lets just say the motor build will have me in debt for awhile. Yes, I will at least keep that part mopar. Right now I'm looking at about 15K under the hood, and the radiator relocation is required to make it all fit. Signature should give you an idea.
Last edited by magnethead; 08-11-2015 at 10:58 PM.
#9
Talking to a certain company about what I want to do. Apparently it's popular in Australia (who knew?) with mopar A bodies but I would be the first that they've done with a truck, period. I'll have to do some supporting mods, most of which were already planned, other than having to go to a 4 bolt mopar LA block instead of using a junkyard 2 bolt stock block. THAT eats up a ton of money.
Fuel system idea also gets nixxed, so first thing to do when I get the truck home is work on the bed mounted radiator system. Plan is to go back to the tried and true Lincoln Mark 8 fan, but get the radiator to go with it. That will keep things simple and easy to service, and I already have the fan, just have to get a new shroud since mine is trimmed for the fluid bottles. I just have to get adapters to go from rubber hose to AN fitting (Jegs has them: http://www.jegs.com/p/JEGS-Performan...62649/10002/-1 ). Luckily, the Mk8 radiator uses 1-1/2" fittings. (If you're wondering, a race radiator w/ AN bungs is over $800...the Mk8 radiator from o'reily's is $130)
First issue I have is that the hoses I have now are 1-3/8 upper and 1-3/4 lower, and the LA block water pumps are 1-1/4 and 1-1/2. But if I can get a Mezeire electric unit to fit, then I can just run AN off the pump and make something work on the top. I'll just have to run a set of -16 hoses and see what I can make happen.
Removing the battery and battery tray will make room for a small fuel tank, shouldn't be a problem.
Where I will have an issue is the computer. My plan is to use the computer and all the sensors and switch them over to the new motor, as well as the starter circuit. The only thing that won't work will be the tach, since the LA block doesn't have provisions for the magnum crank sensor. But the computer looks for a crank signal to keep awake and stay communicating with the cluster and OBDII. The crank and cam sensor is a 3-wire, so it won't really be easy to do much of anything with it. If it was a 2-wire, I could wire it to an MSD crank sensor. The next best thing I can do is find a dual-sensor distributor that will work with a 3 wire output. Perfect world, I can install a magnum dizzy to the LA manifold/block/cam and hope that the PCM stays alive from the active cam circuit, with or without (or possibly spliced) a crank signal.
My thought is that if I can keep a chunk of the OE systems working, even though it wouldn't be able to pass inspection, it would be cool as hell. And who knows, if I can hack the cam/crank sensors well enough and do something to prevent a code for unplugged injectors and misfiring O2's, maybe, just maybe I'd be able to get it to turn the CEL long enough to pass inspection.
Fuel system idea also gets nixxed, so first thing to do when I get the truck home is work on the bed mounted radiator system. Plan is to go back to the tried and true Lincoln Mark 8 fan, but get the radiator to go with it. That will keep things simple and easy to service, and I already have the fan, just have to get a new shroud since mine is trimmed for the fluid bottles. I just have to get adapters to go from rubber hose to AN fitting (Jegs has them: http://www.jegs.com/p/JEGS-Performan...62649/10002/-1 ). Luckily, the Mk8 radiator uses 1-1/2" fittings. (If you're wondering, a race radiator w/ AN bungs is over $800...the Mk8 radiator from o'reily's is $130)
First issue I have is that the hoses I have now are 1-3/8 upper and 1-3/4 lower, and the LA block water pumps are 1-1/4 and 1-1/2. But if I can get a Mezeire electric unit to fit, then I can just run AN off the pump and make something work on the top. I'll just have to run a set of -16 hoses and see what I can make happen.
Removing the battery and battery tray will make room for a small fuel tank, shouldn't be a problem.
Where I will have an issue is the computer. My plan is to use the computer and all the sensors and switch them over to the new motor, as well as the starter circuit. The only thing that won't work will be the tach, since the LA block doesn't have provisions for the magnum crank sensor. But the computer looks for a crank signal to keep awake and stay communicating with the cluster and OBDII. The crank and cam sensor is a 3-wire, so it won't really be easy to do much of anything with it. If it was a 2-wire, I could wire it to an MSD crank sensor. The next best thing I can do is find a dual-sensor distributor that will work with a 3 wire output. Perfect world, I can install a magnum dizzy to the LA manifold/block/cam and hope that the PCM stays alive from the active cam circuit, with or without (or possibly spliced) a crank signal.
My thought is that if I can keep a chunk of the OE systems working, even though it wouldn't be able to pass inspection, it would be cool as hell. And who knows, if I can hack the cam/crank sensors well enough and do something to prevent a code for unplugged injectors and misfiring O2's, maybe, just maybe I'd be able to get it to turn the CEL long enough to pass inspection.