Hello everyone.. Kris from Iowa here. My Dodge is a 97 SLT DAKOTA 4x4 3.9.

I'm swapping a 3.9 to 3.9 in a 97 Dakota. It's my first swap so I need some instructions. I have the basic understanding of the steps. My first question is Do I need to take the top of the motor off to do the swap or can it be done with it on?

 

You talking about taking the intake manifold off? Heads? Valve covers? I don't see why you would have to do that.

 

Hello everyone. I'm swapping out my old engine for a used. Same year engines. Both 3.9. I was wondering if anyone has a step by step procedure as how to do it? I have a basic understanding of how it's done and I have the tools but it's the small details that I am lacking. So if anyone could give me a list of steps to follow or guide me to a web page that I can find the steps I would greatly appreciate it. I am very excited to get started on this project. I have 3 months vacation to get it done. My previous engine had 197 thousand miles on it. It had a misfire in cylinder 2 that would not go away. I did everything possible to correct the misfire I could by replacing parts on the exterior of the engine but no success. Finally I purchased a compression tester and cylinder 2 only had 60 lbs. the engine did not go through oil. Nor was there any leaks. So I presume it's a burnt valve. So I'm replacing it. And that's the story. I love the truck. Have owned it for 8 years and the misfire code has been there for 8 years. But the performance of the engine has declined rapidly in the last year. I've taken excellent care of the body. There is no rust on the body. So It was either go in debt and get a newer truck or replace the engine.

 

Ok. I have seen a lot of guy take that off on a Ram during a swap so I was not sure if I had to or not. Thank you.

 

The 3.9 should lift out and drop in with no problems, just be careful about the distributor in the back (don't **** it against the firewall and bend or break it.)

Before you put the new one in, something to consider (as in "Don't always need this" but "It'll be a right pain if you have to go in and fix this right after replacing!") are the following items.

1) Check the freeze plugs. If in doubt, replace them (including the two under the flexplate / flywheel at the back of the motor.)

2) Check the oil pickup and pump. Better now than after you drop the motor back in.

3) Check the timing chain / gears. If in doubt, replace while it's on the stand before dropping it in.

4) Check the intake plenum gasket. That may be why all the RAM guys take the top off - that's a known problem area, and they may be fixing it while doing the motor swap. The intake and the belly pan are of different materials (one's aluminum, one's steel) and they expand and contract at different rates, tearing the gasket. NOW is a perfect time to apply the Hughes Engine plenum fix ( http://www.hughesengines.com/Index/p...t&partid=26194 ).

NONE of those are probably needed, but while it's out it's a lot easier to do *grins*

If you do drop the pan, consider the rear seal also.

RwP

 

Thank you for the suggestions other than the timing chain I hadn't considered any of the things you suggested. 👍

 

Yah, at about 309,000 I just went through that set on my 1988's motor. Well, more accurately, I just paid for the mechanic to - I don't have any easy way to pull / reinstall a motor (I'd love for a tree to grow up so I could be a shade tree mechanic ... *grins* )

While he had it out to fix the freeze plugs (and he did all of them!), I also had him do the rear seal, the oil pan was off for the rear seal so the oil pump and pickup, it was easier to reattach the pan and timing chain cover and see note about 309,000 miles so the timing chain and gears and the tensioner also. Didn't have to worry about the plenum gasket being a 1988 and throttle body injected, but he did do the intake (didn't clean the EGR which is why I had the intake gasket set in the parts box ... oh, well, I didn't say he didn't ask.)

 

I ordered the plenum plate. I'm also getting a new oil pickup tube. Might as well get new gaskets for the valve covers too. I need a tree to grow too. I have to do all this stuff in my brothers garage and his wife don't like it lol too much because she has to park on the street for a little bit lol. 309,000 miles. Sound like its just about broke in.

 

Take lots of photos before dis-assembly of each area. You can refer back to them in times of need. Believe me when I say they will save your bacon, I speak from experience. Don't be afraid to label some sh*t, that will also save you time in the end. Pay attention the minor stuff like flushing the radiator, replacing worn hoses, belts ...etc. Don't re-use seals, o-rings, cotter pins ... etc. Trust me when I say you don't want to tear that baby apart two weeks later over a two dollar part. Those main seals are one piece designs and easy to replace on the bench, in the truck.... not so much. Have fun!!!!

 

I thought things were looking good but im back to square one. It now starts in 3rd and that's the only gear I have, no overdrive, no nothing. What could be causing this?