2001 01 Dakota 3.9L Crank no start No fuel No spark Replaced PCM, TPS
#1
2001 01 Dakota 3.9L Crank no start No fuel No spark Replaced PCM, TPS
It died in an intersection. I had 1/2 tank of gas, but gauge shows empty. Putting gas and starter fluid into the carb did nothing. It doesn't appear to have a spark. I replaced the PCM and the TPS. It did start up later for no known reason. I drove it up and down the street. Next day it died again.
Any solutions are very welcome. I'm parked in a no-park zone.
Any solutions are very welcome. I'm parked in a no-park zone.
#2
#3
Replaced the Crank Position Sensor. Local dealer couldn't get the part until next week. He said an aftermarket part would work fine. Put it in and get a flashing odometer with a No buS code. What should I try next? Still parked in a no-park area.
#4
#5
It died in an intersection. I had 1/2 tank of gas, but gauge shows empty. Putting gas and starter fluid into the carb did nothing. It doesn't appear to have a spark. I replaced the PCM and the TPS. It did start up later for no known reason. I drove it up and down the street. Next day it died again.
Any solutions are very welcome. I'm parked in a no-park zone.
Any solutions are very welcome. I'm parked in a no-park zone.
The nobus code is something shorting and overloading the PCM causing it to safe-shutdown or a loss of connection to one of the 5v sensors. This is why it worked after awhile, then died again (likely after it cooled down it unshorted, then when it heated back up, reshorted) hopefully you haven't blown the new PCM. Although with the failsafes in place, you shouldn't. Unplug the TPS and Crank sensor and see if the nobus comes back. If it does, then those sensors aren't shorted it might be a grounding issue. Check and clean your body grounds (grounds are actually my current bane, most of my issues have been bad grounds).
EDIT: Did a bit of researching and it seems about even between crank sensor and loose/broken ground.
Last edited by Skreelink; 01-14-2018 at 02:40 PM.
#7
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#8
You have a faulty sensor then, return it to the store you got it from and get one from another place. If you manage to get it running with one from somewhere else, I would suggest parking it at home until you can get the OEM sensor.
#9
....Carb? You have a throttle body, not a carburetor. Double check all your connections for spark, distributor, coil, spark plugs. One might have come lose or corroded a bit. HeyYou's suggestion of crank position sensor is the next step, you HAVE to get a mopar one. I can attest that 3rd party ones do not meet specs very well. I had to grab one for $4 from a junkyard for my truck as there's no dealerships near me. Otherwise the 3rd party ones gave me false codes and stumbling, even the BWD which some people say are alright (was actually the worst in my truck). Even a new 3rd party crank sensor could be the issue, especially since you mentioned nobus AFTER replacing it.
The nobus code is something shorting and overloading the PCM causing it to safe-shutdown or a loss of connection to one of the 5v sensors. This is why it worked after awhile, then died again (likely after it cooled down it unshorted, then when it heated back up, reshorted) hopefully you haven't blown the new PCM. Although with the failsafes in place, you shouldn't. Unplug the TPS and Crank sensor and see if the nobus comes back. If it does, then those sensors aren't shorted it might be a grounding issue. Check and clean your body grounds (grounds are actually my current bane, most of my issues have been bad grounds).
EDIT: Did a bit of researching and it seems about even between crank sensor and loose/broken ground.
The nobus code is something shorting and overloading the PCM causing it to safe-shutdown or a loss of connection to one of the 5v sensors. This is why it worked after awhile, then died again (likely after it cooled down it unshorted, then when it heated back up, reshorted) hopefully you haven't blown the new PCM. Although with the failsafes in place, you shouldn't. Unplug the TPS and Crank sensor and see if the nobus comes back. If it does, then those sensors aren't shorted it might be a grounding issue. Check and clean your body grounds (grounds are actually my current bane, most of my issues have been bad grounds).
EDIT: Did a bit of researching and it seems about even between crank sensor and loose/broken ground.
Disconnected the TPS and Crank Sensor. The 'No buS' did NOT show up.
Codes that did show are
0123 Throttle Pos Sens Voltage Hi
0320 No Crank Ref Signal at PCM
Autozone will only give me another crank sensor to try per guarantee. I may get good at replacing it.
If the replacement doesn't work, I'll get a mopar part and try it.
Any more suggestions?
#10
Thank you for helping me out.
Disconnected the TPS and Crank Sensor. The 'No buS' did NOT show up.
Codes that did show are
0123 Throttle Pos Sens Voltage Hi
0320 No Crank Ref Signal at PCM
Autozone will only give me another crank sensor to try per guarantee. I may get good at replacing it.
If the replacement doesn't work, I'll get a mopar part and try it.
Any more suggestions?
Disconnected the TPS and Crank Sensor. The 'No buS' did NOT show up.
Codes that did show are
0123 Throttle Pos Sens Voltage Hi
0320 No Crank Ref Signal at PCM
Autozone will only give me another crank sensor to try per guarantee. I may get good at replacing it.
If the replacement doesn't work, I'll get a mopar part and try it.
Any more suggestions?
Anyway, since the nobus didn't pop back up, that's a good sign it's a bad sensor, definitely return it.