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Misfire cylinders 2,4 and 7

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  #1  
Old 04-15-2018, 11:31 AM
RYANJ86
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Default Misfire cylinders 2,4 and 7

Hello, I have a 2001 Dakota with an 5.9 engine Iíve been having a issue trying to figure out for a few days now. The symptoms Iíve been having are very ruff idle with a stumble. Then when I accelerate it hasatates for a second and gets going. Higher rpms are fine and runs fine then I come to a stop and 20 seconds later when the rpms settle to idle it starts to stumble.
When cold it idles fine only hot or I have been in traffic for a long time stop and go the issue will show. Fuel mileage is really bad 9-10 mpg. I have 190,000 miles and I have taken very good care since Iíve owned it. Iíve research a lot and trying to narrow this down. Idle has been 590-630
Codes: p0300 p0302 p0304 p0307 the work I have done recently
spark plugs, cap , rotor , bank 2 sensor 1 o2 sensor replaced
 
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Old 04-15-2018, 12:25 PM
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FYI....I have a 3.9L with misfires that I could not figure out as well as stumbling and sometimes stalling etc. Turned out to be crank sensor. Did not get any codes to this effect but after a long battle of replacing sensors and getting bad ones this is what it turned out to be. I was able to run live diags on the vehicle and the only indication I had was the timing was jumping around with large gaps. Not sure what type of timing sensors your truck has but I would look into it.
 
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Old 04-15-2018, 12:45 PM
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x2 on the crank sensor. It can be a cause of funky things. I had the infamous 1, 3, 5 misfire codes without any actual misfires while driving 70+, if I never exceeded 65, never got a code. When stopped at idle, however, it would occasionally lope and almost die (twice it actually died). Since you've done the basics, plugs, cap, rotor, and O2, I'd say the crank and cam sensors. Your idle range seems fine, my 3.9L idles at around 600-700. Clean your IAC as well, on the back of the throttle body, do not move the plunger, but clean it well, requires torx to remove. The crank sensor is on the back of the block at the transmission bellhousing, on the 3.9L removing the passenger front tire gives direct access, on the 5.2L, it was easier to come down from the top, passenger side of the distributor. The 5.9L should be the same as the 5.2, but check both ways to see what's easier for you. The cam sensor is in the distributor, it's the plastic plate under the rotor with a hall effect sensor, it comes right out after you pop the rotor off. Make sure to get mopar sensors. My problem was the previous owner put in a 3rd party crank sensor, put a junkyard mopar sensor for $4 in, never had a problem again. Hit a junkyard first, the crank sensor should be the same on any 3.9, 5.2, and 5.9 from a Ram, Dakota, Durango, etc. Easiest will be pulled from a 3.9L from the wheel well, 10mm socket and 1/4" drive ratchet, comes right out. Also, make sure it seats right in the rubber grommet, if it pushes it out a bit and isn't seated properly, it'll hit the flex plate and eat up the end of the sensor.
 
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Old 04-15-2018, 01:45 PM
RYANJ86
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Thanks guys. I think Iíll replace the crank sensor and clean the ICA same time clean the throttle body too. October last year I had the transmission replace and the shop said they had to replace the crank position sensor too. Maybe they didnít seat it correctly and the flex plate chewed it up. I was thinking a vacuum leak from the plenum. Looking down I donít really see oil but a slight film but I was thinking the pcv valve.
 
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Old 04-15-2018, 02:20 PM
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They might have simply used an inferior sensor from a local parts store instead of an actual mopar sensor. There's a ton of threads about how these trucks do not like 3rd party sensors.
 
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Old 04-15-2018, 02:58 PM
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Thanks. Iíll look around and try to find the Mopar crank sensor. Iím going to replace the two parts and do some cleaning and reply if that did the trick over all I love truck and its been good too me.
 
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Old 04-16-2018, 06:06 PM
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So removed the throttle body and fully cleaned it and the IAC. The ICA was full of carbon deposits and resemble everything they replaced the cam shaft position sensor and retested. Still same issue of the rough idle and spudering.
Just before replaceing the crank sensor I decided to pull the spark plugs out to check them for color and wetness thatís when I noticed the gap was way off being to small. All eight were like that. So I re gaped the plugs and sure enough that solved the issue. Ugh. I must have brain farted when I was replacing the plugs and miss read my feeler gauge. Haha. The old cap and rotor and plugs were pretty hammered from wear a tear and it was starting to run poor so thatís when I did a full tune up. Thanks for all the help much appreciate.
 
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