Hi everyone...ECM
#1
06-13-2018, 12:30 PM
Join Date: Jun 2018
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
#3
06-13-2018, 02:25 PM
Join Date: Jun 2018
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
#4
06-13-2018, 05:48 PM
P1492 is a battery temp sensor fault, either too high or open circuit.
https://www.engine-codes.com/p1492_chrysler.html
P0601 is a serial communication failure of the ECM
https://www.obd-codes.com/p0601
I would first suggest using a multimeter to check your alternator output. Put it in DC Voltage mode, start the truck, and see what the voltage is at idle by placing the probes on the battery terminals. It should be within the 13-14.5V range when idling. Either increase the RPM via the throttle connection, or have a friend raise the RPM from inside to see if the voltage goes up. Remaining steady at 14-1.4.5 is ideal, ~15V can still be safe. Anything above that means the voltage regulator in the alternator has gone out, replace alternator. I just went through this on a 2000 Nissan Sentra, at idle it was pumping 17.8V. Usually the alternator light or service engine light would come on when I stop or at high RPM.
I mention this as overvoltage from the alternator can overcharge the battery, and at the same time, drastically increase heat (tripping the battery temp code), and ruin the battery. Overvoltage can ALSO cause feedback in the ECM, which as of right now, could just having connection issues, but could lead to fully burning out the ECM.
So current steps I would say test the alternator and clean the ECM connectors with electrical connection cleaner.
https://www.engine-codes.com/p1492_chrysler.html
P0601 is a serial communication failure of the ECM
https://www.obd-codes.com/p0601
I would first suggest using a multimeter to check your alternator output. Put it in DC Voltage mode, start the truck, and see what the voltage is at idle by placing the probes on the battery terminals. It should be within the 13-14.5V range when idling. Either increase the RPM via the throttle connection, or have a friend raise the RPM from inside to see if the voltage goes up. Remaining steady at 14-1.4.5 is ideal, ~15V can still be safe. Anything above that means the voltage regulator in the alternator has gone out, replace alternator. I just went through this on a 2000 Nissan Sentra, at idle it was pumping 17.8V. Usually the alternator light or service engine light would come on when I stop or at high RPM.
I mention this as overvoltage from the alternator can overcharge the battery, and at the same time, drastically increase heat (tripping the battery temp code), and ruin the battery. Overvoltage can ALSO cause feedback in the ECM, which as of right now, could just having connection issues, but could lead to fully burning out the ECM.
So current steps I would say test the alternator and clean the ECM connectors with electrical connection cleaner.
#6
06-13-2018, 08:26 PM
Legend
and high voltage. and medium-low and medium-high voltage.
Actually, I think they hate every voltage except the exact amount of voltage that they want.
Now if only we knew what that was...
LOL
(OP - yes, the PCM's are incredibly picky)
Actually, I think they hate every voltage except the exact amount of voltage that they want.
Now if only we knew what that was...
LOL
(OP - yes, the PCM's are incredibly picky)
