We are still away for the Holidays and while we are here the CEL comes on....turns out it's reading the EGR. There is no reputable dealer in the area so I was going to do it myself since a local parts store can get it for me. My question is how hard is it to do and where is it located? I would prefer to do it before the 800 mile return trip since it will probably affect my gas mileage and it's stalled on me a couple times recently.

After talking to my local dealer on the phone he said i had to remove the wiper cowling, then the drivers wiper motor and get at it that way. I worked doing tuneups, brakes, custom exhaust, ect... in college so I think this shouldn't be a problem, but that was 10 years ago and I know my limits as well.

Any tips or pictures would greatly be appreciated so I know exactly what I am doing before I start in. I know what an EGR valve looks like generally, but spotting it on the engine can be another thing alltogether.

 

EGR = exhaust gas recirculation. Look for a line off of the exhaust manifold that feeds back to the intake.

 

It's usually mounted directly to the intake manifold, from what the dealer says its on the back. These engines are tucked way back in there, so be prepared for a fight! It will help if you have a mechanic's mirror (like on a telescoping stick) and flashlight to get it located. Sounds like you have to remove cowl and wiper motor to even get at the thing.

 

I talked to a tech from my local dealership. He said that removing the cowling, washer motor, wipers, ect... won't help. After looking over everything I agree with him, at least on my Durango (05 SLT 4.7) He said that you basically have to lay on the engine and do it blind so the mirror recommendation will def help.

 

Here are the pages for EGR removal and installation from the factory service manual. Only 7 pages in PDF format, file size is 277.88 KB

http://www.mediafire.com/?x4ezm0kwjwj

Alternate download locations:
http://drop.io/1r8312w
or
http://stashbox.org/418787/Dodge%20R...from%20FSM.pdf

I need to do mine next weekend. I also found this to be helpful:
http://www.justanswer.com/questions/...l-need-replace

Quote:
Its located on the rear of the driver's side head. Its actually very bad to change.
If you look at the left side of the plastic intake manifold, a bit to the rear of the throttle body you will find a metal tube coming off, it makes a 90 deree bend to the rear. Follow this tube to the rear of the left head, and you'll find the egr valve. Its in about the most horrible spot you could imagine. You'll have to lay on the engine to replace it. A drop light is a must.

The EGR tube comes into the left side of the valve. It has 2 8mm bolts that hold it on. I always use a 1/4" drive 8mm swivel socket and a 3" extension. There really isn't much of a choice. Be careful when you get about done removing it, the gasket may fall and your new valve won't come with one. There's an alternate way to get the tube off, I'll get to that.

To remove the valve from the head you have to remove 2 10mm bolts. The bolts go straight down from the top. Don't bother looking for them, you have to feel for them.

The other thing you can do is remove the 2 bolts that hold the valve to the head and remove the valve and tube together. When you put it back together you have to leave the tube loose from the valve or you'll never get the bolts back in the valve-to-head joint.

After you're done replacing it (if you even decide to once you find it!), disconnect the battery for a few minutes. This will clear out the false fuel adaptives that have been recorded in the engine controller's memory.

 

After reading all the posts I could find on EGR replacement, I decided to give it a shot. Really wasn't all that bad. Yes, you have to do most of it by feel and laying on the engine, but in reality, it's only four bolts. Proper tools are key here. Do not go in with a handful of adjustable wrenches and think you will get it. I am not an auto mechanic and managed to complete in about an hour. Make sure you have 1/4" drive swivel sockets (8mm and 10mm), a handful of extensions, and a comfortable something to lay on. You will be on your belly for a whole hour. One tip that I did not see posted is to remove ALL air hoses that are in the way. I did not do this until I was half done and it would have saved a lot of time. They just pull apart at the joints. Hardest part for me was scraping old gasket off.
1. Remove all air hoses that will be in the way.
2. Remove 2 bolts holding exhaust tube to EGR (use 8mm box end wrench on forward bolt and 8mm swivel socket with about 2" extentions on rear bolt.
3. Pull tube from EGR and intake. Don't worry about gasket. My EGR (from NAPA) came with both gaskets.
4. Remove 2 bolts securing EGR. (10mm swivel with enough extentions)
5. Remove EGR and clean ALL gasket material from surface. Keep in mind this is a metal gasket.
6. Pre-assemble new EGR, hose, and gaskets. Keep hose bolts loose enough for hose to move freely. Thread in EGR bolts far enough to just hold gasket in place.
7. Carefully put EGR in place while lining hose up with intake port.
8. Tighten EGR bolts first, then hose bolts.
9. Hook all air hoses up that were removed.
10. Reset check-engine light.
11. Have a beer and tend to all cuts and scratches on your forearms.
Hope this helps.

 

Just removed the egr on my 2005 ram 1500 4.7

8 mm socket to remove the tube and 13 mm socket to remove the egr valve


wire connector has a red clip that must be pushed to the side before removal


I had the fan and shroud out of the vehicle for a new water pump and that made enough room to place one foot on the drag link and frame while sitting on the radiator and support with some padding.


I found that removing the tube first made access to the egr bolts easier.

 

I just did this job this weekend and laid on my right side to get in there. I didn't pre-assemble the replacement because I couldn't maneuver my hand over the top curve of the tube to reach the rear bottom bolt. Then, I had a heck of a time bolting that tube to the new valve but was able to get my left hand in there to hold it still enough to start the 8mm bolts. Also pulled and cleaned the throttle body. When done, I turned key on/engine off for 15 seconds then started the truck right up and the CEL cleared itself.