My 2004 intrepid SE with only 33,000 miles won't start. The dome light is on and thedash lights up when I open the door. When I try to start it all power goes out until I turn the key back(I also hear a little click). Then it powers back up and the dash anddome light back up. I'm definintely gonna take it in to the dealer but I was hoping to get some idea what to expect. I think the warranty is over and cash is tight. Any ideas anyone? Thanks.

 

Does your clock from the radio is resetting (like goes to 12:00) after you try to start? If yes is battery.
If not I would check also some relays from the box under the hood. You have there on the cover the schematics and you can switch the relays with same parameters (look carefully).

 

Yes it's you battery. I'm not too sure which relays Robert was talking about, but save your self some $ and charge the battery. Then drive it to an Auto Zone and they will check your charging system for free. They can also load test the battery (if after you charge it you still can't start it, remove the battery and bring it in, the cell platesmay be bowing under load only effectively shorting out the battery!). I'll say this again, make sure to get your charging system checked (even if you change the battery), or you may find yourself in the same position again.

 

Thanks Kurts, I looked at the battery and there is a white build up on the connector. Looks almost like lime. Could this have anything to do with the battery not being charged? Had a problem last year where the car would just turn off, even while driving. The dealership couldn't find anything but did install a new battery. By the way, this is the second time you've helped me. Thanks

 

No problem. BTW what ever happened with the 700 tranny code?

As for the build-up, yes it can interfere with the charging of the battery. It is not an indicator that the battery is actually bad though. You can clean it with a baking soda and water mixture, then treat the terminals with a protecting that you can buy at any auto parts store (less than a dollar). It is basically a grease used on electronics. You can also buy these felt pads to put around the terminals. I haven’t much luck with these though. Lastly there is a spray coating that is supposed to help (with a red tint), I have had limited success with all of these...I like the grease the best.

While at the Auto store, ask for a post cleaner tool, it will help clean up the most of it before you get to the messy part (it is a two part wire brush, one male and one female, to clean the posts ant the connector). Also don’t forget to have them check your charging system and have a load test on the battery. One more quick test they can do is a starter test (to see how many amps your starter is drawing). I must add though, if the starter is drawing too many amps, you would have to remove it to confirm it is the culprit (usually the case).

Good luck, and let me know how it turns out.

 

Hey Kurts, I sat my battery on a charger and it's fully charged(didn't overcharge). Now when I try to start the car as soon as I turn the key everything goes black then the dash lights slowly come up(flickering). When I try to turn it over there's some whining and another weird noise almost like a buzz. Another thing, it starts when I jump start it but when I turn it off it's done. I feel it's time to take her in but still wanted some feedback if have any. Thanks

Also, the tranny codes just went away a while ago and no problem since.

 

As I mentioned above the battery cells can bend, shorting out the battery. I had this happen on a truck a few years back, when I went to start, it acted like a bad battery (lights go dim ect), but the battery had a good charge and showed good volts. Under a load test however, it shorted out and went to zero volts! Did you try a load test at a parts store? I would also still check the starter syster (to see if it is drawing too many amps), have you tried this (also for free at an auto store, see above)?

 

This seems to be a common problem. Mine does this every year in the spring. All you need to do (get used to it) is to take out the air filter housing so you have access to the battery. Take off the positive pole (DO NOT touch the frame with the wrench). Put on a new clamp and use a steel brush on the cables. Now it'll work as good as new until next spring.

If you don't like unhooking the positive first, then jack it up, take off the wheel, remove the damn cover, remove the metal piece holding it down, remove the negative pole, remove the positive pole....see why I go straight for the positive?

 

Huh? Are you talking about the build up on the battery posts? I don't understand why you jack the car etc, just to remove the neg cable from the battery. Did they make it so difficult to access it on the 2004 (I own a 97 and all I need to do is open my hood)?