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Dodge Neon Part Numbers, Maintenance Intervals and Fluid Capacities
3 Attachment(s)
SHIFTER BUSHINGS FOR MTX
http://www.boogerracing.com/boogerbushings.html MFS (MULTIFUNCTION SWITCH) CONNECTOR 05183442AA MFS (MULTIFUNCTION SWITCH) No foglights: 05073044AA With foglights: 05073045AA INTERMITTENT WIPER SWITCH 05019567AA OIL PRESSURE SWITCH 4608303AB MOUNTS Engine Mount (a.k.a. Rear Engine Mount)
FRONT END ACCESSORY DRIVE COMPONENTS Alternator
TIMING BELTS AND COMPONENTS Timing Component Kit; W/Mech. Tensioner; Includes Bracket
PROTHANE POLYURETHANE BUSHINGS Chrysler Dodge/Plymouth/Neon, PT Cruiser BUMP STOPS 01-06 Rear Bump Stop Kit 4-1301 Chrysler Dodge/Plymouth/Neon, PT Cruiser CONTROL ARM BUSHINGS 95-99 Front C-Arm Bushing Kit 4-209 00-06 Front C-Arm Bushing Kit 4-214 01-06 Front C-Arm Bushing Kit 4-214 Chrysler Dodge/Plymouth/Neon, PT Cruiser END LINK BUSHINGS, FRONT & REAR 95-99 Front End Link Kit 4-401 95-99 Rear End Link Kit (sport package only) 4-402 00-06 Front End Link Kit 4-401 00-06 Rear End Link Kit 19-413 01-06 Front End Link Kit 4-401 01-06 Rear End Link Kit 4-403 Chrysler Dodge/Plymouth/Neon, PT Cruiser SHIFTER BUSHINGS 95-06 Shifter Bushing Kit 4-1605 03-06 SRT-4 Shifter Bushing Kit 4-1606 Chrysler Dodge/Plymouth/Neon, PT Cruiser SWAY BAR BUSHINGS. FRONT & REAR 95-06 Front Sway Bar Bushing Kit, 20mm Bar 4-1118 95-99 Front Sway Bar Bushing Kit, 22mm Bar 4-1119 00-06 Front Sway Bar Bushing Kit, 24mm Bar 4-1120 95-99 Rear Sway Bar Bushing Kit, 16mm Bar 4-1111 00-06 Rear Sway Bar Bushing Kit, 12mm Bar 4-1130 00-06 Rear Sway Bar Bushing Kit, 14mm Bar 4-1131 00-06 Rear Sway Bar Bushing Kit, 17mm Bar 4-1137 01-06 Front Sway Bar Bushing Kit, 22mm Bar 4-1119 01-06 Front Sway Bar Bushing Kit, 24mm Bar 4-1120 01-06 Rear Sway Bar Bushing Kit, 18mm 4-1136 Chrysler Dodge/Plymouth/Neon, PT Cruiser TOTAL KITS 95-99 Total Kit (Includes Sport Package) 4-2002 00-06 Total Kit (Neon, SRT-4) 4-2007 01-06 Total Kit (Includes Touring Edition) 4-2006 Chrysler Dodge/Plymouth/Neon, PT Cruiser COIL SPRING ISOLATORS 01-06 Front Coil Spring Isolator Kit, Lower 4-1704 01-06 Rear Coil Spring Isolator Kit, Upper & Lower 4-1705 Chrysler Dodge/Plymouth/Neon, PT Cruiser CONTROL ARM BUSHINGS, REAR 95-99 Rear C-Arm Bushing Kit 4-301 00-06 Rear Trailing Arm Bushing Kit 4-304 01-06 Rear Trailing Arm Bushing Kit 4-302 01-06 Rear Watts Linkage Bushing Kit 4-303 Chrysler Dodge/Plymouth/Neon, PT Cruiser MOTOR MOUNT INSERTS 95-99 Engine Mount Insert Kit, Front 4-501 95-99 Engine Mount Insert Kit, Right 4-502 95-99 Transmission Mount Insert Kit, Left 4-503 95-99 All 3 Mounts, Kit 4-1901 95-99 All 3 Mounts, Kit (Softer Street Style) 4-1902 00-06 Upper & Lower Mount Insert Kit (Race) 4-1905 00-06 Upper & Lower Mount Insert Kit (Street) 4-1906 Chrysler Dodge/Plymouth/Neon, PT Cruiser STRUT ROD BUSHINGS 95-99 Rear Strut Rod Bushing Kit 4-1204 00-06 Rear Strut Rod Bushing Kit 4-1206 Chrysler Dodge/Plymouth/Neon, PT Cruiser TIE ROD BOOTS 95-99 Tie Rod Boot Kit (2) 19-1711 AIR FILTERS https://dodgeforum.com/forum/attachm...ine=1359277008 OIL FILTERS https://dodgeforum.com/forum/attachm...ine=1359277008 Mopar- 04105409AB SPARK PLUGS https://dodgeforum.com/forum/attachm...ine=1359277008 Question: What spark plug should I put in the Neon?
Originally Posted by darthroush
(Post 2412508)
Here's from a local engine shop (a sponsor on another forum) that regularly builds 500HP-1,000HP+ engines that outlast and outperform most everyone else's around:
Copper: Best heat dissipation, shortest life, cheap Platinum: Poor heat dissipation (burns hotter), 100K life, more expensive Iridium: VERY poor heat dissipation (burns the hottest), 100K+ life, Extremely expensive On boosted setups, it is a very bad idea to run platinum and iridium core plugs due to the lack of heat dissipation. The spark plug can actually become a Glow Plug and cause detonation, regardless of octane used. This is a real issue in 2V heads as the poor head design already has a hard time dissipating the heat at the spark plug. FYI, the hotter the spark, the more complete the burn of the A/F. This is why the driveability is better with an iridium vs copper. My wife's 2001 VW Passat requires Premium fuel (I think the owners manual calls for 93 or 94 octane actually). Stock the thing came with Platinum plugs. The motor has knock sensors. Every Passat we test drove had tip-in detonation with heavy throttle input, then the knock sensors would pull timing & it'd go away. I installed Autolite $1.95 Copper spark plugs of the exact same heat range and the detonation is GONE. No other changes were made. Platinum & Iridium = NOT a performance plug. These should be reserved for the Daily Drivers that don't require high octane fuel. Copper = BEST performance plug. I will not tune a boosted motor with Platinum or Iridium plugs. Only Copper. |
When should I change ______?
Plugs [Gapped to 0.035"] Every 30,000 miles (with copper plugs) Wires Every 60,000 miles, or, every other plug change. Oil and Filter [4.5qts with filter] Every 5,000 (with conventional or synthetic blend). Every 3,000 if frequently driven less than 15-20 minutes when the engine is cold. *Don't forget to check the drain plug gasket at each change* Air Filter Every 15,000-30,000 miles (for dusty and non-dusty conditions, respectively) for a regular, paper filter. Make-Up Air Filter Every 30,000 miles (this is that little square piece of foam in the air filter box). Brake Fluid [DOT 3 or higher] I like to give the system a flush every brake pad/shoe change. Brake fluid wears like engine oil and should be changed every so often. A flush when you are already under the car doing the brakes will only take about 10 minutes tops. Just don't ever let the master cylinder run dry! Top it off throughout the process. Engine Coolant [6.5qts; 1/2 distilled water and 1/2 coolant] Regular G-05 (the bright green coolant): flush and refill every 2 or 3 years or 30,000 miles. "Long-Life" coolants, such as the Mopar coolant, calls for 5 years or 100,000 miles. Power Steering Fluid [ATF+4] Change every 2 or 3 years or 30,000 miles. Automatic Transmission Fluid and Filter [ATF+4; 4.0 qts] Every 48,000-60,000 miles Manual Transmission Fluid [ATF+4; 2.5-2.8 qts] Every 48,000-60,000 miles (Mobil 1 High Mileage 10W30 is becoming a popular replacement for the ATF+4 in manual transmissions, and manual transmissions only!) Accessory Belts Every 60,000 miles Timing Belt, Water Pump and Tensioner Every 100,000 miles *NOTE: It would not be a bad idea to replace the cam and crank seals, accessory belt tensioner pulley and possibly the engine mount. Be sure to use an OEM engine mount as they are fluid-filled unlike aftermarket parts. Using a non-filled mount can cause excess vibration in the cabin of the vehicle.* PCV Valve Every 30,000 miles |
FSM's
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Excellent info,especially for a new owner like myself.Thank you.
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any reason the Mopar branded oil filter is not listed in the above chart??
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No particular reason, no. They are relabled Purolators (which I have listed), but you are going to pay a premium because they say Mopar on the side and you get 'em from the dealer. The Purolators are roughly $4.
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only asking b/c you can now get Mopar branded filters @ wallyworld, amazon, and other parts shops. just looking for the part number.
why not add one more brand to the listing in case something happens to be sold out in your neck of the woods? according to this PDF the part number appears to be 04105409AB who would have thought it would take me the better part of an evening to find a simple part number online?... |
Added it under the chart. I no longer have those Excel files to add it in to.
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Two things
1. You should also annotate on the spark plugs bit, for people reading this that you shouldn't buy 4-prong or anything that burns hotter than Copper, because you'll warp the spark plug wells and then when driving suddenly it'll start bogging hard and you'll have 0 power. Spitting and choking.
It warps and loosens up the holes and then spits the plug out. It costs anywhere from 300 to 800 to tap and die new heater cores. D; (from experience) 2. Do you have any manuals or anything that has a good explanation (better than this ****ty Haynes manual) for replacing the right motor mount? (not 2 torque mounts or tranx mount -- I see a lot of confusion with this) The Haynes manual is like a 4-step, DUH "pull out, put it - mark it". Without any explanation and the transx mount was a nightmare to fix. |
Originally Posted by Exodyus
(Post 2734929)
1. You should also annotate on the spark plugs bit, for people reading this that you shouldn't buy 4-prong or anything that burns hotter than Copper, because you'll warp the spark plug wells and then when driving suddenly it'll start bogging hard and you'll have 0 power. Spitting and choking.
It warps and loosens up the holes and then spits the plug out. It costs anywhere from 300 to 800 to tap and die new heater cores. D; (from experience) 2. Do you have any manuals or anything that has a good explanation (better than this ****ty Haynes manual) for replacing the right motor mount? (not 2 torque mounts or tranx mount -- I see a lot of confusion with this) The Haynes manual is like a 4-step, DUH "pull out, put it - mark it". Without any explanation and the transx mount was a nightmare to fix. Manuals...links are in my signature for the factory shop manuals. |
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