I messed it up. It is totally my fault.

These are the "key dance" codes:
0325, 0300, 0304, 0522, 0340

Car was running ok: Once every 500-1000 miles, it threw a 0304 code while sitting at a light along with a rough idle.
So
Put new spark plugs and wires
Car ran fine, the 0304 code was not fixed but everything else was great.
So
I changed the coil pack
Bad mistake.
25 minutes later: Above 2000 RPM the whole cars jerks, bad misfires, error codes.
Turn the car off-takes about 30 seconds of starter to get the engine to catch.
Rev the engine in park- misfire, jerking car, error codes.
I replaced the new coil pack with the old one. Problem did not go away.
The next morning:
Car starts with no problem.
after 15 minutes: Misfire. Jerking. error codes.
I drove it for an hour on low RPM. the car is fine in slow acceleration. Gear changes are smooth. It goes 55mph on the highway. But above 55mph- Misfires. Codes. Jerking. Chaos...

I was thinking: Could be the wire connector to the coil pack. Once it gets heated up, the resistance is too high for the power draw?
Could be that something else was about to go anyways and this is just a coincidence.
Could be a grounding issue-when I change the new coil I did not ground it correctly? is that even possible?
I have a new camshaft position sensor on order anyways. Should I even bother?

the 0304 problem has never actually been resolved has it?
This is a repost on the neons.org forums

Thanks in advance

Red

 

wow man. do you have a multimeter? you could do a resistance test on the connector plug for the coil. You could also test the wiring the coil plugs into. Make sure that the coil wire ( the one coming off the harness) is not touching the valve cover. It could ground out. If you have the CPS. change it and see if it helps. what brand was the new Coil Pack??

 

Don't ignore the other codes...

Start with Camshaft sensor, and you should really look into that knock sensor.


Cam/Crank sensors tend to fail when they get hot. Another good possibility is that you have a base engine concern. Head gasket/block/head crack etc... that shows up when warm. I'm not convinced that spark is your problem.

 

Took it out for a spin this weekend
for the first 15-20 minutes, it does just fine. 70mph on the highway, high revs with no problem, starts in seconds.

Once the car warms up: troubles return.
It is not a grounding issue: I jerry rigged a ground wire from the new coil pack to the body and the problem persists.

The new coil pack is a "United Automotive Products" C-810 from
RockAuto.com See attachment

Engine has problems at higher RPM only and only after warming up. What can cause this?

 

Fuel filter or pump?? I really do not know. but I'm just throwing out possibles. Change that cam sensor then see whats up. after that check Cylinder compression. You can rent the tester from Oriellys for $40 and you get your money back when yuou return it.

 

Things I learned from replacing the camshaft position sensor (A how-to Guide):
Tools needed:
New camshaft position sensor
Socket wrench with a long extension
8mm, 10mm and 13mm Sockets (at least)
Shop towels.
Not 100% needed: Universal joint. Telescoping magnet. Light.

Before you start:
Park the car on a flat surface
Let the car cool off overnigt. You are going to be touching the engine directly.
Wear a long sleeve shirt
Step 1:
disconnect the battery terminals.
Disconnect the battery thermo wrap elctric connector
Unscrew (13mm) the battery holder and remove the battery
Step 2:
There are two hoses coming from around the front of the engine that partially block the access to the bolts holding the sensor. They are fastened to the engine with a 10mm bolt and a bracket located above the sensor. Remove the bolt to give the hoses more room to move.
Step 3:
Us the 8mm socket to remove the 4 bolts of the camshaft sensor.
You will drop a bolt/socket/universal joint/something if you are not careful.
Use the magnet to pick things up, but it is better to be exremely careful because you will have to take apart half the car to retreive a fallen bolt.
Step 4:
After removing the fourth bolt, the sensor should come off with no problem. Oil will seep out as soon as you remove it, be prepared with your shop towel. Also use the towel to clean the area from left-over seal material. You might have to scrape some of the seal off, I used an old house key.
Step 5:
Disconnect the electrical connector from the old camshaft sensor and hook up the ne sensor.
Step 6:
Hold the new sensor in place and gently screw the four bolts into place. All of this will be frustrating and take some dexterity. The place is not easily accessible and you will be leaning over the car the whole time. There are several hoses and electrical wires in the way also and the angle is weird. Each one of the four bolts can be accessed if you take the time to align your tools correctly.
Step 7:
After the bolts are all lined up, tighten them up.
Reconnect the metal bracket for the two hoses with the bolt.
Put the battery in place, connect the thermal wrap, bolt down the battery holder, reconnect the battery poles.
Step 8:
start the car. If it runs well-sucess. If it does not run well or won't strat-epic fail

 

Final update.
All is well. the car is ok. Except...
The cylinder compression has gone way down.
Mechanic took a look, He says it's probably a head gasket somewhere between #3 and 4
or could be inside the head.
Due to it being a piece of junk...I am now selling a 2004 neon, any takers?