i have changed the starter, the ignition switch, the battery, the neutral safety switch, the crank shaft position sensor(there was a code for this), checked the fuses, ground cables, battery terminal and looked for loose connections all to no avail.

it started about 3 months ago when i would go to start it nothing would happen the first couple tries then it would just start. and the problem would come and go starting fine for a few days then nothing. for a while putting the car in neutral and moving it a foot or so would get to start. that hasn't worked in a while. i did get it to start once by jumping the relay but that doesn't work anymore. i have tried all i can think of and just don't no where to go from here. any help would be appriciated.

thanks

 

Welcome to the 2nd Gen Neon forum.
Good trouble shooting suspect list so far.
Might be helpful to know what year model vehicle you have, the mileage on it, any after market add-on equipt., or mods, or any wiring taps made?
Rescan the computer with a upscale scan tool, like the ELM & post up All set, or pending trouble code Number clues, as they can help focus a trouble shoot.
Were the items replaced checking bad, or borderline, or were you just tossing suspect parts at the problem on a hunch?
Have you tried a thump/wiggle test on the start relay in the under hood power distribution center, or tried swapping it for a like, known good relay, not needed to run the engine?
EDIT: Did you have the new/replacement starter bench tested before leaving the store, so you know it's good?

 

it is a 2004 sxt 65000 miles it might be worth to note that my grandmother purchased this vehicle then latter found out it was in a wreck and had the engine swapped but it did run for a couple years before she passed and willed it to me and it started not starting randomly also when i changed the ignition switch i could tell i was not the first person to do it because there were missing screws and broken wire harness locks

will it give error codes if it won't start cause there are none now, i only have a simple bluetooth scanner

yes i was just tossing parts at it

swapped relays with the other five next it (like the horn) testing each as i went all good

i figure the starter is good if jumping the relay will get it to crank

i volt checked the battery aswell 12.4 i think its below 12.6 because of manually cranking the engine and turning all the electronics on about a hundred times

i could give it a jump but i really don't think its the battery if all the sudden it starts just fine then will not do anything the next time

its been sitting in my driveway for five weeks now and i try it every day and about once every couple weeks it will start let me drive it turn it around in the driveway then nothing not even a click from the starter but if i go under the hood and jump the starter it cranks like there is no tomorrow

 

Ok, good feedback, so lets think about this some more. I'm not completely clear on how your "jumping the relay" & the starter motor will run. Are you jumping the solenoid 12 volt winding, so the solenoid will pull in, to run the starter motor?

Or are you jumping/bypassing the solenoid & making contact to it's high amp output connection to the starter motor/the large diameter/wire gauge that runs the starter motor?

If your having to bypass the starter motor solenoid, it suggests the solenoid or it's internal high amp contacts that run the starter motor, have a problem, so maybe give it a thump & see if it'll wake up & run the starter motor when your helper holds the ignition key is in the Start position. If a thump wakes it up, put the solenoid on the suspect list. Was the old solenoid reused when you replaced the starter motor?

I agree, when it's in one of it's no start fits, if the starter motor will respond every time & run when you jump the relay, how ever your doing it, the starter motor is probably ok & can be moved down to the bottom of the suspect list.

SO, depending on how your "jumping the relay/starter solenoid", that sorta leaves you looking at whether or not the "S" terminal on the starter is getting a B+ voltage when the ignition key is turned to "Start" & the starter won't run? SO, use your multi-meter to probe the "S" terminal for B+ 12 volts, to a good ground, when it won't crank & your helper turns the ignition key to "Start".

If you don't have at least 10 volts B+ to the "S" terminal when trying to start, perform a under load voltage drop test between the battery B+ post & the B+ battery cable clamp, then at the B+ cable connection at the starter solenoid.
If under load voltage is dropping below 10 volts when trying to crank the engine, you have a problem with a high resistance connection at the battery posts, cables, or their connection to the starter Solenoid, or a intermittent bad B- ground between the engine & battery, so use your multi-meter to check the B- connection across the post to clamp & at the other end of it's run at it's connection to the engine block, for under load voltage drop.

If that checks out ok, you have ok B+ at the "S" terminal but the solenoid won't pull in to run the starter & crank the engine, suspect faulty contacts in the starter solenoid, so when your helper holds the key in the start position, try giving the starter solenoid a thump with a piece of wood & see if it'll wake up & make contact to run the starter motor. If it does, suspect the starter solenoid has a internal contact problem.

If when in one of it's no crank fits & there is No B+ to the "S" terminal, back up to the ignition switch & check it's "S" output terminal to see if voltage is making it through the ignition switch when the key is in the "Start" position.
If it has voltage on the output side of the ignition switch "S" terminal but it's not making it to the starter solenoid "S" terminal, you have a intermittent wiring run between the ignition switch "S" terminal, the tranny Neutral Start switch if it's auto tranny, or the Clutch switch if a manual tranny & the starter solenoid "S" terminal. So, give the neutral, or clutch switch a test with the multi-meter & give it's wiring a good visual inspection & or wiggle/thump test. If you have voltage to & through those switches, then there is a wiring problem between them & the starter solenoid "S" terminal.

If there isn't any voltage on the ignition switch output "S" terminal when the key is in the "Start" position, you have an intermittent internal contact problem around the ignition switch, or with one of it's wiring lugs, or crimp to a wiring connector, or internal, with one of it's internal contacts. Maybe try & give the ignition switch & or it's wiring connections a thump/wiggle test to see if you can wake it up to crank the engine.

A bunch of thoughts for consideration, just take them one at a time & try to narrow down what's not working when it's in one of it's no crank fits & let us know what you find.

 

BUMP:
Well Asmorpheus how is the intermittent no crank trouble shoot going, 255 curious minds would like to know?

 

I had a similar problem , what's the voltage at the fuel pump