As my immobiliser is not functioning, my 1997 Neon is effectively scrap metal.

Before any one suggests; yes I have replaced the batteries in the keyfob etc.

I was just about to leave my works last Friday so I opened the car doors as normal. I then decided to go to the toilet but since then, I dropped the keyfob/keys on the floor.

When I returned to the car, I pressed the keyfob switch again as you have to do it again to 'release the ignition', so to speak. However, nothing would happen. Despite several checks, the immobiliser would not respond.

I need urgent help here. As it stands, the immobiliser has not preventing a theft but, preventing the rightful owner of driving his car.

Worse still, this car is stuck some 125 miles from my home.

Is there any 'frigs' I can do to bypass the immobiliser? I managed to turn the engine today by putting 12V onto the solenoid. But the second keypress that I cannot do is preventing the ignition of the engine.

PLEASE HELP !!!!

Mark

England.

 

Do you know where the other keyfob is? Each car was supposed to have 2 of them...

The immobilizer does more than just block the starter (yellow wire from the ignition switch), it decodes the crank position signal for the PCM. If you want to get to the unit, it should be located under the dash where the center air vents are - you'd have to pop up the top portion and also remove that upper dash portion. You can also try holding the kefob right up in that area and see if being closer helps... The battery for those is a Duracell DL2016 (or equivalent), might give that a shot, and make sure the connection is actually being made in there...

If you order a new keyfob from the dealer, they have to prgram the new keyfob security code into the unit with a DRB scantool, so you'd have to have the car actually at the dealer$hip... Worth considering, although towing, dealer maintenance fees, the new part, etc. will add up pretty quick.

Pinout for the immobilizer:
1 - Door switch ground (yellow/black wire)
2 - Starter relay in (yellow wire)
3 - Signal in (grey/black)
4 - Signal out (grey)
5 - Sensor ground (black/light blue)
6 - 8 volt supply (orange)
7-10 - empty
11 - Ground (black/light green)
12 - Door unlock out (pink/violet)
13 - Door lock in (orange/violet)
14 - Starter relay out (yellow)
15 - empty
16 - Fused ignition (dark blue/white)
17-23 - empty
24 - Fused main power (red/yellow)
25 - Door unlock in (pink/violet)
26 - Door lock out (orange/violet)

I'm sure you can cut and splice the starter in/out wires to get the starter working. The crankshaft sensor that comes with the immobilizer equipped cars is encoded though, according to the FSM. If that's the case (read below), you'd have to get a regular crank sensor from a non-immobilizer equipped car and install it, then cut and splice the signal in/out wires or you'll never get spark... The immobilizer unit, of course, would have to be unplugged from the connector, and you won't have remote door lock/unlock (not that you do currently, I realize...).

This is all based on what I'm reading in the Factory Service Manual, I've never had to deal with one in person... Looking at the wiring diagrams, I'm not so sure the crank signal sensor is actually different... There's an "immobilizer engine sensor" that gets hooked up in there, but that's the one that connects to the signal in/out wires (round plug, only 2 wires). The crank sensor on my car is more square and has 3 wires (power, ground, signal), so maybe bypassing that "immobilizer engine sensor" (cut and splice) would be needed as well (instead of buying and installing a new crank sensor). Finding it could be a trick, one part of the FSM says it's behind a kick panel, another says it's behind a fender... Tracing the signal in/out wires from the main immobilizer unit would probably be the best bet.

Without a service manual, you're probably going to have a rough time of it... Best bet (just not cheap), assuming your current fob is actually damaged, is probably to contact the dealer and get the new fob ordered and the new code scanned in.

Best of luck!

 

I know this is a very oldthread but if you do come back send me a PM and I'll tell you how to 'fix' it.

 

How do you fix?

 

I would like to know also how to fix I'm having the same problem but mine is a 1500 ram 2007 how would I bypass the system key fob don't work and security light is flashing what would I cut and splice to jump the starter

 

I was wondering if you can help me out with this I had a key break off in the ignition had to replace the lock cylinder and I don't have the money to go to the dealer. I went and pulled a lock cylinder out of a junkyard with the key I can return back and get the immobilizer computer if that would work can you help me

 

. how am i able to "fix " it. My immobilizer is giving me a no crank no start issue. I can jump my starter. But its not allowing my crank sensor to give fire.

 

could you tell me please how to fix this I have been without a car for over a month now and no one seems to know how I can fix this problem there's nothing wrong with my car except it keeps telling the locksmith that it can't communicate with the immobilizer. It's plugged in I've checked everything they want hundreds of dollars to fix this please help me