Anyone with H.I.D.s
#41
Bi-Xenon bulbs (highs and lows) are highly recommended, and the housings then need proper alignment. The actual proper way of doing it is different housings (ex. projectors), as ours have no beam cut-off like the newer vehicles and are prone to blinding oncoming traffic even with higher wattage bulbs, let alone HIDs.
#42
So, basically, you are blinding oncoming traffic with the equivalent of high beam intensity bulbs that are not properly aligned.
Bi-Xenon bulbs (highs and lows) are highly recommended, and the housings then need proper alignment. The actual proper way of doing it is different housings (ex. projectors), as ours have no beam cut-off like the newer vehicles and are prone to blinding oncoming traffic even with higher wattage bulbs, let alone HIDs.
Bi-Xenon bulbs (highs and lows) are highly recommended, and the housings then need proper alignment. The actual proper way of doing it is different housings (ex. projectors), as ours have no beam cut-off like the newer vehicles and are prone to blinding oncoming traffic even with higher wattage bulbs, let alone HIDs.
#43
#45
Well since this thread has been bumped, I will ask my question..LOL..I have a '94 Ram 1500 that I use as my daily..When I tried to order HID's for it sometime ago, DDM said that there was problems with using HID's in that year Ram.But I see here that people are having success in running them.
I have/had them in all my cars/trucks I have owned since the existence of aftermarket HID's. So am I good to go on the DDM for highs and fogs? Do we need a load balancer or anything outside of the kit? I know most kits now come with the load balancer built in.
I have/had them in all my cars/trucks I have owned since the existence of aftermarket HID's. So am I good to go on the DDM for highs and fogs? Do we need a load balancer or anything outside of the kit? I know most kits now come with the load balancer built in.
#46
#48
Hey pep, sorry i need help. I have a 2011 Ram 1500. The bulb type I got is H13, guy said it was good for high/low (non quad light system). I have the plugs connected for the high/low from the ballasts. The lows work perfect but when i go to highbeams, the lows shut off and no high beams (im in the dark) Switch back to low beams and bam they come on. Think this guy sold me the wrong kit? At first I thought i missed a connection but double checked. Any input would be great, thanks for your help.
#49
Hey pep, sorry i need help. I have a 2011 Ram 1500. The bulb type I got is H13, guy said it was good for high/low (non quad light system). I have the plugs connected for the high/low from the ballasts. The lows work perfect but when i go to highbeams, the lows shut off and no high beams (im in the dark) Switch back to low beams and bam they come on. Think this guy sold me the wrong kit? At first I thought i missed a connection but double checked. Any input would be great, thanks for your help.
Has anyone ever totally bypassed the stock lighting system? I believe that there is so much more to be said and understood about the relays involved. In other words, use the regular stock wiring for RDLs and low beams, but have 2 additional illuminated toggle switches for brights and fogs (I mean really bright fogs, each tipped slightly lateral to light up not only the ditches, but half of the field too.)
I've hit 3 deer in the past year and I think this could have been avoided. I'm developing a housing unit for the Stanley HID 3000 Spotlight that's water proof and each will emit 2500-3000 lumens that I can mount to my bull bar and not look stupid. I tossed the battery and switch in each since I will toggle it from inside. I know I have to be careful because it may look like sunrise to an oncomming car if I don't flip it off. Any suggestions?
Formerking
#50
Exact same thing happens on my 1999.
Has anyone ever totally bypassed the stock lighting system? I believe that there is so much more to be said and understood about the relays involved. In other words, use the regular stock wiring for RDLs and low beams, but have 2 additional illuminated toggle switches for brights and fogs (I mean really bright fogs, each tipped slightly lateral to light up not only the ditches, but half of the field too.)
I've hit 3 deer in the past year and I think this could have been avoided. I'm developing a housing unit for the Stanley HID 3000 Spotlight that's water proof and each will emit 2500-3000 lumens that I can mount to my bull bar and not look stupid. I tossed the battery and switch in each since I will toggle it from inside. I know I have to be careful because it may look like sunrise to an oncomming car if I don't flip it off. Any suggestions?
Formerking
Has anyone ever totally bypassed the stock lighting system? I believe that there is so much more to be said and understood about the relays involved. In other words, use the regular stock wiring for RDLs and low beams, but have 2 additional illuminated toggle switches for brights and fogs (I mean really bright fogs, each tipped slightly lateral to light up not only the ditches, but half of the field too.)
I've hit 3 deer in the past year and I think this could have been avoided. I'm developing a housing unit for the Stanley HID 3000 Spotlight that's water proof and each will emit 2500-3000 lumens that I can mount to my bull bar and not look stupid. I tossed the battery and switch in each since I will toggle it from inside. I know I have to be careful because it may look like sunrise to an oncomming car if I don't flip it off. Any suggestions?
Formerking
hmmm, that sounds more complicated then i'd like to do myself. They are working fine cept the highbeam and i notice durning the daytime no flicker but when you activate a turn signal both lights go out. Sorry guys not the best pic, but i love em.
http://img714.imageshack.us/img714/8309/imag0112ex.jpg
Last edited by Tperk; 01-17-2012 at 06:02 PM.