SOOooo Tired of Exhaust leaks at the manifold...
#1
SOOooo Tired of Exhaust leaks at the manifold...
I just paid more for a set of bolts than I EVER anticipated I EVER would...
$60 after shipping...
I'm thinking, though, this will be the end of header bolts letting loose their grip.. I also have some straight up copper gaskets, as well as donuts...
Can you tell I've had it with this?
Here is a pic of the bolts... Has anyone used them yet?
$60 after shipping...
I'm thinking, though, this will be the end of header bolts letting loose their grip.. I also have some straight up copper gaskets, as well as donuts...
Can you tell I've had it with this?
Here is a pic of the bolts... Has anyone used them yet?
#4
I actually chose these bad bears:
OVER the Remflex.... do you think that is/was a mistake?
funny... I went with the headers before I got rid of that dang Y pipe.. People are going to think me nuts, but the gains were with getting rid of the OE junction, NOT the headers.. Had I opportunity to do it over, shorties wouldn't be on my rig, the stock mani's, or LT's would be.. Shorties, by themselves, don't account for much- and in my opinion, are NOT worth it.. swapping out the OE Y for a magnaflow, or Jegs offroad, IS..
these bolts should be the bombdigadee.. I was hoping someone else had used them.. If not, I'll report back on them..
OVER the Remflex.... do you think that is/was a mistake?
these bolts should be the bombdigadee.. I was hoping someone else had used them.. If not, I'll report back on them..
Last edited by drewactual; 11-07-2011 at 04:41 PM.
#6
It'll be a mistake if your bolts don't maintain compression on the gaskets right from the get-go. Unless there's some magic that's been invented since my last experience with copper gaskets, you get only one good go at the squishy-squishy, and if you somehow end up with too much (gasket) compression or a creased dent from mishandling it's game over. They won't burn through -- they'll just leak.
Well, yeah... nothing you might do upstream of the factory WHY? pipe is going to show much improvement, ya know?
I've never fooled around with the Split-Lock bolts but I like the idea of 'em. My only concern is how easily removable they'll be after four or five years. Is it possible to sneak some anti-seize between the locking widget and the main bolt? If so I might just give 'em a whirl myself.
I've never fooled around with the Split-Lock bolts but I like the idea of 'em. My only concern is how easily removable they'll be after four or five years. Is it possible to sneak some anti-seize between the locking widget and the main bolt? If so I might just give 'em a whirl myself.
#7
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#8
root cause? - paper gaskets, and the nature of headers.. plus, I didn't use stage 8's from the get-go.. mistake..
the nature of headers I speak of is the design of the shorties.. they are DAMN difficult to torque properly.. I mean, after you crawl between the transmission and floor pan, and shimmy out to where you can balance a little on a wheel well (best performed by wrapping yourself around the cross-over pipe, and place your tools within grasp, it's not that hard.. my present hex heads are 10mm.. I need at least three wrenches to get to them- a socket is out of the question because the proximity of the primary tubes to the bolts head.. I need a regular wrench, then a 90* off set wrench, then a tiny wrench about 2~3" long.. you struggle to get the dang wrench on the head, then turn it about 5 mils (there are 6800 mils in a 360* circle)... then you swap wrenches and do it again, because teh points are in such an alignment that you can't get on them with the first wrench.. then you continue.. no less than 78.1 hours later, you have properly torqued headers.. or, so it seems.. I may be exaggerating, but not by much..
point is: paper gaskets, non-locking chromolly bolts, hard to get at to torque properly, equals leaks over time.. the paper simply can't hold up..
the design of bolt I purchased has a head actually smaller than the shaft.. I should be able to get a socket on it.. (glory to allah).. and the little sinker thingies, well, we'll see about those.. Unreg: I'll take a few close pics when I land them, and will check out some anti-seize..
I've never used straight copper gaskets.. ever.. I hope I didn't make a mistake, but I fear I should have just went with aluminum over felt.. the thick gooey kind.. a remflex, in other words.. I won't hesitate to swap them again if the dang thing give me grief.. it's been annoying me for far too long..
sheriff: the option you presented may yet be on the table.. these things are tweaking me, dude..
the nature of headers I speak of is the design of the shorties.. they are DAMN difficult to torque properly.. I mean, after you crawl between the transmission and floor pan, and shimmy out to where you can balance a little on a wheel well (best performed by wrapping yourself around the cross-over pipe, and place your tools within grasp, it's not that hard.. my present hex heads are 10mm.. I need at least three wrenches to get to them- a socket is out of the question because the proximity of the primary tubes to the bolts head.. I need a regular wrench, then a 90* off set wrench, then a tiny wrench about 2~3" long.. you struggle to get the dang wrench on the head, then turn it about 5 mils (there are 6800 mils in a 360* circle)... then you swap wrenches and do it again, because teh points are in such an alignment that you can't get on them with the first wrench.. then you continue.. no less than 78.1 hours later, you have properly torqued headers.. or, so it seems.. I may be exaggerating, but not by much..
point is: paper gaskets, non-locking chromolly bolts, hard to get at to torque properly, equals leaks over time.. the paper simply can't hold up..
the design of bolt I purchased has a head actually smaller than the shaft.. I should be able to get a socket on it.. (glory to allah).. and the little sinker thingies, well, we'll see about those.. Unreg: I'll take a few close pics when I land them, and will check out some anti-seize..
I've never used straight copper gaskets.. ever.. I hope I didn't make a mistake, but I fear I should have just went with aluminum over felt.. the thick gooey kind.. a remflex, in other words.. I won't hesitate to swap them again if the dang thing give me grief.. it's been annoying me for far too long..
sheriff: the option you presented may yet be on the table.. these things are tweaking me, dude..
#9
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I hear ya on the wrench trouble deal. When I installed mine I had a Craftsman wrench that's designed to remove rounded off bolts and a regular combination wrench and millimetered it along (switching wrenches for each millimeter) until they were tight. When I took one off to fix a leak I modified a wrench and it made it ten times easier.
I got it fixed today. At least I hope I did. And now I feel like frosty the snowman.
I put my old Champion truck plugs back in there and ditched the heat shields too because I get spark knock every now and then depending on the tune and the gas I get. I assumed that the .065 gap on the Bosch Platinum +4 might have something to do with it.
I also figured that there would never be a better time to change the plugs then when the header was off on the hard side of the engine.
I modified a wrench and anyone that is thinking of getting shorty headers should do this to a wrench because it made things so much easier.
Oh, and it's really easy to hang out in one spot a second too long and blow a hole in that paper thin metal, you can see where I did it twice in the picture.
If you're going to modify a wrench yourself then either wear a gas mask while you do it or hold your breath, weld quickly, get away then breath. When you weld chrome vanadium it puts off toxic fumes.
I put my old Champion truck plugs back in there and ditched the heat shields too because I get spark knock every now and then depending on the tune and the gas I get. I assumed that the .065 gap on the Bosch Platinum +4 might have something to do with it.
I also figured that there would never be a better time to change the plugs then when the header was off on the hard side of the engine.
I modified a wrench and anyone that is thinking of getting shorty headers should do this to a wrench because it made things so much easier.
Oh, and it's really easy to hang out in one spot a second too long and blow a hole in that paper thin metal, you can see where I did it twice in the picture.
If you're going to modify a wrench yourself then either wear a gas mask while you do it or hold your breath, weld quickly, get away then breath. When you weld chrome vanadium it puts off toxic fumes.
Last edited by Sheriff420; 11-07-2011 at 08:09 PM.