truss it and 3 link she will be fine

 

What size coilovers are those?

 

Punk. You know that's been the plan for a good long while. Just going to keep an eye on the height is all.

It will resemble this setup. I already have the truss. Really like that Tbar mount.




2.5 x 14"

 

Are you gonna go for hydraulic assist with this set up. My Redhead steering box had already developed a leak at the Pittman seal. Hydro assist might be in my future, I think I'll warranty the box at least once

 

So what are the benefits of trussing it? Exactly

 

Strengthens the axle. Will take more punishment before bending the tubes.

 

Not right away. For sure will be needed when new axle with front ARB engaged.... lol

That's not right that your Redhead went kaput already. Did you add a larger cooler like I suggested?

How steep is your drag link angle? I don't remember if you have the TRE on the bottom. I'll go check your thread for pics. Perhaps we compare some triangulation! hehe

 

You truss when you will be jumping the shiz out of it.

haha

The truss, while provides extra strength, it also mitigates spinning the axle tubes. That can happen, but not likely with my style.

The man pro for a truss is running a 3 link suspension. So that means 2 lower control arms and 1 upper control arm. You can put the upper on passenger side or driver side. Picking a side will be mainly determined by room available. The hardest part is ensuring you design in sufficient vertical separation, which is the distance b/t upper and lower joint in height. That distance is significant for suspension behavior (difference b/t staying planted or lifting up under load).

Putting on non-diff side will mean making a high mount to get separation. Or use a truss and put on diff side to obtain similar, but added help of truss now.

3 link has another degree of freedom available when articulated and that is axle rotation. This can really help for staying planted and keeping traction vs. slipping and hopping. *******ly no binding at all b/c of this.

Con: Packaging space. reduced onroad performance. not very common to use b/c of uncertainties.

4link is still very very good. It's main issue is enough vertical separation at the frame w/o compromising ground clearance. This is b/c you want to have them as parallel to the ground at ride height as possible.

This truss is for the 3link effienciency over strength. I mean, it's a Dana high pinion 60 already.

 

I can't wait to see how this turns out. I'm going to 3 link my mine eventually when I get tons. I don't look forward to welding that cast. I hear it's a bit of a challenge.

 

There is no need to weld to the cast housing, at least not in my setup. If you're going to weld on cast, then be sure to use a someone that knows how to weld with high nickle content wire and ability to preheat and slow cool.

Can you do this in your garage, yes but with the above know how.


I should mention that the 4 link remains a very efficient design. It can perform just as well as a 3 link. I don't want to give the impression that a 4 link is inferior. It really depends on your application and usage.

My plan is to actually have a removable upper. This is b/c I want good, safe onroad stability. I don't believe a single person that has done shared their 3link setup experienced stable onroad.... lol