just ordered 08.5-12 steering for my truck :)
#1
just ordered 08.5-12 steering for my truck :)
done a lot of reading on it, and the steering assembly for 08.5+ trucks seems to be the best bang for the buck steering upgrade for our trucks. helps tighten up front steering and improve front wheel alignment, and helps prevent/eliminate death wobble.
you can get it at your stealership, or for cheaper via http://www.chryslerpartsdirect.com/ mopar part number: 52122362AF (original number) or 52122362AH (newer number)
I have a commercial account at the stealership so I paid $295 for the assembly. comes with new drag link, new tie rod, new adjusters and comes assembled.
Its basically a direct bolt in upgrade for our trucks, but it does require either aftermarket, or 09+ steering stabilizer. I went with a Carli low mount Bilstein 7100 stabilizer.
now for stock or 16" wheels the tie rod stud that attaches to the steering knuckle on the right side is very very close clearance to the wheel. it will clear by like 1/8" I suggest grinding the top of the stud down for additional clearance. other than that its all direct bolt in OEM parts from newer improved steering trucks!
Once mine comes in I'll let you know how it goes, but if you want to do some reading on it, this thread has 33 pages on it from 2nd gen guys. there's pics in there too. http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/98...ver-spent.html
also important note: this is for 4x4 trucks only. sorry 2wd trucks, but it won't fit your trucks...
should fit all 2500 and 3500 trucks, possibly 1500's too?
you can get it at your stealership, or for cheaper via http://www.chryslerpartsdirect.com/ mopar part number: 52122362AF (original number) or 52122362AH (newer number)
I have a commercial account at the stealership so I paid $295 for the assembly. comes with new drag link, new tie rod, new adjusters and comes assembled.
Its basically a direct bolt in upgrade for our trucks, but it does require either aftermarket, or 09+ steering stabilizer. I went with a Carli low mount Bilstein 7100 stabilizer.
now for stock or 16" wheels the tie rod stud that attaches to the steering knuckle on the right side is very very close clearance to the wheel. it will clear by like 1/8" I suggest grinding the top of the stud down for additional clearance. other than that its all direct bolt in OEM parts from newer improved steering trucks!
Once mine comes in I'll let you know how it goes, but if you want to do some reading on it, this thread has 33 pages on it from 2nd gen guys. there's pics in there too. http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/98...ver-spent.html
also important note: this is for 4x4 trucks only. sorry 2wd trucks, but it won't fit your trucks...
should fit all 2500 and 3500 trucks, possibly 1500's too?
#2
You can also do the same thing with the 98.5-99 HD 1 ton steering. Replaces the factory Y setup and is a direct bolt in...and clears 16 inch rims easily. Also, it does not have to have the knuckles reamed on 2nd gen trucks.
I understand that the system the OP lists is a bit bigger...uses a 1.5 OD RH tie rod vs a 1.25 OD TRE on the earlier system. The 08.5 system comes pre assembled from Chrysler and the earlier system is sourced through the aftermarket. I find it ironic that the Chrysler system doesn't have grease zerks (?)
I've been running the earlier 98.5 steering for about 3 years...one of my best mods. Really tightens up the steering response and doesn't require constantly *&^%$*ing with the toe in.
I understand that the system the OP lists is a bit bigger...uses a 1.5 OD RH tie rod vs a 1.25 OD TRE on the earlier system. The 08.5 system comes pre assembled from Chrysler and the earlier system is sourced through the aftermarket. I find it ironic that the Chrysler system doesn't have grease zerks (?)
I've been running the earlier 98.5 steering for about 3 years...one of my best mods. Really tightens up the steering response and doesn't require constantly *&^%$*ing with the toe in.
Last edited by dsertdog56; 05-28-2012 at 07:36 PM.
#3
#4
exactly what this new dodge steering does
btw I like non grease-able as long as ford doesn't make them. grease-able = gotta grease every couple months or they start to wear out. non grease-able = maintenance free and sealed. far less likely to get mud and dirt inside the joints.
btw I like non grease-able as long as ford doesn't make them. grease-able = gotta grease every couple months or they start to wear out. non grease-able = maintenance free and sealed. far less likely to get mud and dirt inside the joints.
#5
Greasable joints will last longer - if properly maintained. It does not allow for failure to grease, forcing mud into joints and neglecting. If properly greased (and not over greased as most people tend to do) dirt and water cannot enter the joint. If you grease until grease comes out, you are over greasing the joint.
#6
exactly what this new dodge steering does
btw I like non grease-able as long as ford doesn't make them. grease-able = gotta grease every couple months or they start to wear out. non grease-able = maintenance free and sealed. far less likely to get mud and dirt inside the joints.
btw I like non grease-able as long as ford doesn't make them. grease-able = gotta grease every couple months or they start to wear out. non grease-able = maintenance free and sealed. far less likely to get mud and dirt inside the joints.
Both HD designs use a "T" setup rather than the OEM "Y" style. In the y style your toe in changes as the suspension cycles. This is because your RH tre and drag link are one and the same.* It also means setting your toe in each time you change your suspension heigth.
In the t setup, both outer t rods are connected. The drag link assembly is separate and attaches to the outer tie rods.*
In the t setup, once the toe is set, it remains the same as the suspension cycles. It reduces bump steer on rough terrain, and increases steering feel and input. I sometimes wonder if gearbox adjustments and funky steering shaft crossmember mods would be needed if the tie rods themselves are changed, since I have needed niether.
Rams OEM equipped with the t setup do not have provisions for a steering stabilizer and with highway tires still wouldn't. I run a stabilizer because mud tires tend to wander more... but have also run without one. The difference, even on our poor *** roads, is negledgable!
Here's a poor azz pic of the 98.5 setup...
* I realise this may be a bit simplistic The drag link assembly has two tres and an adjustment sleeve. On a t steering setup all you adjust is the steering wheel with that. Toe is adjusted at the LH TRE.
I prefer greasable joints but have to admit the OEM non greasbles lasted a fair amount of time.
Lastly, my appologies to the OP. I hope you'll post pics of your own install shortly.
Last edited by dsertdog56; 05-28-2012 at 09:21 PM.
#7
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#8
Here's a slightly better shot with the stabilizer installed. It's almost a crossover system.
Last edited by dsertdog56; 05-29-2012 at 02:32 PM.
#9
I'm not sure about the '08.5 system....but the earlier (98.5) is a direct bolt in. I would say the later steering would have to reamed. You'll wnt to buy the correct taper though, so hopefully the OP will give us that information.
Here's a slightly better shot with the stabilizer installed. It's almost a crossover system.
Here's a slightly better shot with the stabilizer installed. It's almost a crossover system.
#10
the 08.5+ stuff is supposedly direct bolt in as well with the only modification needed being the grinding of the stud on the tie rod end to clear 16" wheels since later model trucks come with 17" or larger wheels.. they do clear 16's but barely...my parts should be in tomorrow, but wont be till the weekend before i get to it.
I'll let ya'll know how it went, but according to the thread on cummins forum people that actually did the mod said it was all direct bolt in.
I'll let ya'll know how it went, but according to the thread on cummins forum people that actually did the mod said it was all direct bolt in.