Honestly if I were to do it again at the sign of the first crack I would have torn it out and done this project. When I first got the truck around a year ago it just had a couple small cracks where it looked like a CB radio was drilled into the dash. Within 6 months the entire thing was cracking from front to back and within a year it was garbage, it seemed to disintegrate fast and if you were able to pull it all in once piece the final product would turn out even better!

 

Just installed the HD T Steering replacement using the part numbers below off RockAuto and it was a direct bolt in replacemnent. Steering feels much more solid now and now I just need to get the rocksolid steering upgrade to get rid of some play I still have in the wheel


- Drag link: DS1459
- Long tie rod (passenger side: DS1456
- Left tie rod end (driver side): ES3496
- Drag link upper end (at pitman arm): ES3497 (ES3527 for '00-'02)
- Small adjusting sleeve (drag link): ES2012S
- Large adjusting sleeve (long tie rod): ES3498S

 

Nice! thanks for posting part numbers too!

Do you have any play in your steering box? Be sure to check that before doing the Rock Solid Steering Upgrade.

 

Are you reffering to this? TSB 19-10-97

http://dodgeram.info/tsb/1997/19-10-97.htm

This may be what my problem is since I can move the steering wheel a couple inches left and right even when parked.

 

I'm referring to a worn out steering box. I could turn my wheel in my truck a 1/4 turn with the wheels moving, I installed a RedHead steering box and that problem went away, the old box was worn out.

The Rock Solid Steering Upgrade replaces a steering bushing where your steering shaft comes out of your firewall. It's only needed if you can slide your steering wheel left to right. If the wheel doesn't slide like that, then you don't need it. If the turns and your truck wheels don't move, then the bushing isn't your problem.

Get a friend and have him turn the wheel in your truck, you watch the pitman arm and steering shaft when he does this. If the steering shaft going into your steering box moves, and the pitman arms doesn't move, then you need a new steering box.

 

Crank down on all the steering joints to ensure all seated completely. Most don't do that and the play is actually there, especially at the crossover joint or T.

Definitely check the gearbox like Jolly said.

Additionally the steering shaft, which has a ujoint, however, it's rare for that to go boom.

This will take 2 people to do.

 

Thanks! I will make sure to check all this next time I get a chance to get under it.

 

Nice to see another example of the HD T-steering. I have already checked all the part numbers and have it on the list whenever it stops raining.. .

2 Questions for you Schmitdp:

Which brand did you purchase from Rock Auto?

Did you have ANY fitment issues? I have read some trucks needed the TRs cut a bit to fully adjust and align them. Mainly where the adjuster sleeves mate the two ends. Any cutting involved? Any rubbing on the diff, track bar, knuckle, etc? I will be doing this myself with no help and it is my DD so I have to know it will work flawlessly. Thanks.

 

Hi Ramman,
I have attached my complete order so you can see the brand (Quick Steer) and the product number. I didn't go with Moog parts since this is a work truck and not a DD or off road truck. Saved about $200 and I believe you can just change out the joints going forward and whereas I needed all the metal rods this time. My truck is a 98 and I had zero fitment issues, so no cutting or rubbing. The large adjuster sleeve (toe) has no clearance issues, the small one that adjusts the steering wheel for me hit where the tightening nuts are so I had to keep it loose to keep the nuts towards the front. Let me know if you have any other questions. Excited to get my new ball joints in this next week as well!
Patrick

 

Thanks, schmidtp! I'm glad to see the stabilizer clamp still works on the new rods. There is some adjustment capability to the clamp but I suspect for use on the HDs since they used the same part. I will be getting Moog (would like Spicer as the stockers are still going strong). But I am concerned the Moog is thicker tubing than the 'regular' brands. Do you think (or anybody) the Moog uses thicker tubes along with the larger ball joints (Problem Solver)? I want it to bolt up exactly like yours did but don't want anything cheap as this is my DD and only rig. Thanks.