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Replacement door for 2000 Quad Cab

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  #11  
Old 02-02-2019, 10:23 PM
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Originally Posted by HulkVonSmash

Bad photo, but basically part of the door is bowed out, another part is split and what was connected to it is pushed inward.
Take a hammer and gently hit that part in the right flat. If you want to get it completely flat put a piece of flat metal behind it. As the for the crack buy this
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?m...2F192449295800
they will fix your door for you
 
  #12  
Old 02-03-2019, 09:27 AM
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Originally Posted by MoparFanatic21
Take a hammer and gently hit that part in the right flat. If you want to get it completely flat put a piece of flat metal behind it. As the for the crack buy this
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?m...2F192449295800
they will fix your door for you
Wow, wish I would have known about those a couple years back, when I changed the door because mine was trashed.
 
  #13  
Old 02-03-2019, 12:27 PM
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Originally Posted by HeyYou
Wow, wish I would have known about those a couple years back, when I changed the door because mine was trashed.
Yeah I ran into them a couple years back. I bought the set for my truck. Pretty neat and easy to make
 
  #14  
Old 02-03-2019, 12:58 PM
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Originally Posted by MoparFanatic21
Yeah I ran into them a couple years back. I bought the set for my truck. Pretty neat and easy to make
Installing them as a preventative measure may not be such a bad plan.....
 
  #15  
Old 02-03-2019, 01:16 PM
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I'd rather have stainless steel, thinking the aluminum might be crack prone.
 
  #16  
Old 02-03-2019, 03:39 PM
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Originally Posted by MoparFanatic21
How did you code your door lock cylinders? I want to do that
I took apart the passenger cylinder to figure out the number sequence of the pins then took apart the old one and both new ones to recode to match. Each pin is numbered so it just has to go in the right sequence. It's good to have a couple extra cylinders (I was just fixing my driver's side) so there's enough numbers to play with.
 
  #17  
Old 02-04-2019, 01:09 AM
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Originally Posted by HeyYou
Installing them as a preventative measure may not be such a bad plan.....
I would
Originally Posted by fj5gtx
I'd rather have stainless steel, thinking the aluminum might be crack prone.
I don't think they are really thick
Originally Posted by Ramman18
I took apart the passenger cylinder to figure out the number sequence of the pins then took apart the old one and both new ones to recode to match. Each pin is numbered so it just has to go in the right sequence. It's good to have a couple extra cylinders (I was just fixing my driver's side) so there's enough numbers to play with.
Good to know but I don't think that method would work for me
 
  #18  
Old 02-04-2019, 01:29 PM
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Figured I'd post this. This is how I fixed my other truck's driver's side door until I can weld it in the summer. My b one let wasn't bent but you get the idea. Now my other truck's got that reinforcement plate like this one will get once it is welded.
 
  #19  
Old 02-04-2019, 02:04 PM
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Originally Posted by MoparFanatic21
Figured I'd post this. This is how I fixed my other truck's driver's side door until I can weld it in the summer. My b one let wasn't bent but you get the idea. Now my other truck's got that reinforcement plate like this one will get once it is welded.
Yeah, I did the same thing on my 96. The stock bolts could stand to be just a bit longer for that exercise though.
 
  #20  
Old 02-04-2019, 02:06 PM
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Originally Posted by HeyYou
Yeah, I did the same thing on my 96. The stock bolts could stand to be just a bit longer for that exercise though.
True. Like I said it's temperary until summer hits and I can weld both sides then I'll buy them plates.
 



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