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-   -   grinding noise only after bump (https://dodgeforum.com/forum/2nd-gen-ram-tech/200639-grinding-noise-only-after-bump.html)

general1 05-14-2009 12:27 PM

grinding noise only after bump
 
OK, I have a 96 Ram 4x. There is a grinding noise coming from the front end after I hit a bump. The noise is coming from the passanger side near the centerline. It does not do it every bump, sometimes it lasts 1-2 seconds and other times I nearly have to stop for the noise to stop. Along with the noise I get a vibration I can feel through the pedals. I have read that many people having a similar noise had bad t-case snap rings but noone has described the noise only occuring after bumps.

I had the wheel bearings and brakes checked. No other noticeable problems.

could this be the t-case? where can i get a good master rebuild kit?

Aubrey 05-14-2009 05:26 PM

Does your 4wheel light on the dash come on when it does it? It might not. My first guess is that your CAD is not fully disengaged or is moving some. When you hit the bump, the collar is barely moving over where the splines are rubbing but it is not over far enough to fully engage.
Being a 96, I'd be more inclined that it is the diaphram going out and not something in the t-case.

general1 05-15-2009 06:44 AM

No the light does not come on.

This is my first 4x so forgive me. What is the CAD? and is there any way to check the diaphram?

dhvaughan 05-15-2009 07:05 AM

i also think the cad is not fully disengaged, and the axle halves/coupler is rubbing.

here's a good article on how it works.
the main thing to understand is that there are 2 vac lines from t-case to cad. vac on one should couple, vac on the other should uncouple.
sounds like you have in-between, which is probably due to a rusty/sticky shaft inside the cad. take it off, connect vac, and test it. then take it apart and clean/fix it, or replace it with a posi-lok (manual cable).

http://www.dodgeram.org/tech/repair/..._engagment.htm

general1 05-15-2009 05:16 PM

dhvaughan, thanks for that info, exactly what I was looking for.

checked 4 wheel drive today and still works perfectly with no grinding noise, so I think I ruled out the t-case.

I will be checking this next.

dblj16380 05-15-2009 10:49 PM

+1 on the CAD engagement/dis-engagement suspect. I know on my truck that it takes my truck about 10 seconds to fully disengage from 4X4 after I shift it back to 2WD. My CAD or T-Case is probably on the way out. But if you are hearing a noise near the center of your truck but more towards the passenger side then that sounds like the culprit!

Good Luck!

general1 05-15-2009 11:34 PM

thanks for the help, I will be pulling the vacuum motor off in the next few days to check it (truck is not a daily driver).

If it is beyond repair, would it be worth the extra $80 or so for the posi-lock conversion?

dhvaughan 05-15-2009 11:46 PM

the cad is actually very simple with only a couple of moving parts. the most common problem is a rusty shaft or fallen off e-clip. but, i just thought the whole contraption was too unreliable, subject to a broken vac line or indicator light when you really needed it. so i replaced mine with a posilok. i like pulling the cable and feeling it engage.

B0NECRACKER 05-15-2009 11:49 PM

Hey I had the exact same problem and it was the transfer case snap ring. When my suspension flexed the drive shaft would push the transfer case gears together causing that grinding noise. An easy way to check is to pull the 4x4 shifter towards the seat and see if it stops. Don't drive it too long like this if it is the problem. you dont need a rebuiild kit, if it is you just need the new ring or an after market repair thingy that stops it from happening again.

general1 05-16-2009 08:32 PM

So I pulled the vacuum motor off today just to have a look. Either the previous owner would grind the mess out of it every time he put it in 4x, or this is where the noise is coming from.
There are very fine metal shavings in the tube and the edge of the collar is chewed a bit (the shaft must be much harder than the collar, cause not a scratch on it).

This also leads to another quest. The vacuum motor seems to be functioning. there is no rust on the shaft, no missing e-clip, and it moves freely when I blow/suck the vacuum ports.

Off to auto store tomorrow to get a vacuum tester, maybe the vacuum is off in the t-case or maybe the diaphram in the motor is just worn allowing it to move the collar just enough under the right conditions. ANY THOUGHTS?

-Bonecracker, I don't think it is the t-case because it only does it when the front passanger tire hits a bump and even then not on every bump. I have hit some good holes with the driver side and rear and nothing.

dhvaughan 05-16-2009 10:01 PM

in addition to testing the vac motor and its ability to slide the shift fork back and forth,
also check that the collar slides easily on and off the inner shaft.

there is a bearing and a bushing on the end of the 2 shafts at the cad. i think its a bushing on the inside and a bearing on the outer. make sure everything is tight and lines up properly.

if you had a vac leak not pulling the collar to the unlock position, it might drift around and grind. those vac lines between cad and t-case are in a vulnerable position.

the hard part about troubleshooting it, is that once installed, you can't see what the damn thing is doing.

general1 05-18-2009 01:46 PM

Got the vac tester. Vac coming to the shifter is working perfectly.
I took the vac shifter apart, cleaned everything, put it back together, put in new oil and.. no more noise. I drove it for 40 miles and no grinding.
I did not replace anything but the gear oil (when I took it off there was no oil in it).
All I can figure is the lack of oil and the metal dust was causing a poor vacuum seal in the motor. Any better ideas?

cuaco_ortiz 05-18-2009 03:34 PM

dude, I had the same problem on mine, mine is also a 96.

It turned out to be that the front axle needed more oil. Check the oil level in your front axle.

When I had that sound I had to pull the 4x lever to try and engage it but not really doing it and it went away for a while at least. I took everything appart and could not find a damm thing wrong.

At the end, it was just the oil level in the axle that was missing about 1 or 1ス quarts.

try it and give it a shot, you'll be surprised...

dhvaughan 05-18-2009 08:32 PM


Originally Posted by general1 (Post 1671273)
I did not replace anything but the gear oil (when I took it off there was no oil in it).

you mean there was no oil in the front diff ? that's not good.
the cad was probably just stuck in no-man's land, and needed a good cleaning.

Josh Graham 09-19-2017 12:06 PM


Originally Posted by B0NECRACKER (Post 1669003)
Hey I had the exact same problem and it was the transfer case snap ring. When my suspension flexed the drive shaft would push the transfer case gears together causing that grinding noise. An easy way to check is to pull the 4x4 shifter towards the seat and see if it stops. Don't drive it too long like this if it is the problem. you dont need a rebuiild kit, if it is you just need the new ring or an after market repair thingy that stops it from happening again.

part number ring?

HeyYou 09-19-2017 07:00 PM

Get the transfer case saver.

Dodgemitch07 10-23-2018 08:49 PM

I have this same grinding issue with my 07 ram. I知 pretty sure it has the CAD design as well. Where is this so called CAD located and is this an easy fix. I thought it was my actuator and now I知 having second thoughts after reading this thread

HeyYou 10-23-2018 09:00 PM


Originally Posted by Dodgemitch07 (Post 3415216)
I have this same grinding issue with my 07 ram. I知 pretty sure it has the CAD design as well. Where is this so called CAD located and is this an easy fix. I thought it was my actuator and now I知 having second thoughts after reading this thread

Your truck is a third gen, and completely different than ours. You need to be in the 3rd gen ram tech section. Start your own thread there please.

Ztjohn 10-26-2020 05:30 PM


Originally Posted by Aubrey (Post 1667596)
Does your 4wheel light on the dash come on when it does it? It might not. My first guess is that your CAD is not fully disengaged or is moving some. When you hit the bump, the collar is barely moving over where the splines are rubbing but it is not over far enough to fully engage.
Being a 96, I'd be more inclined that it is the diaphram going out and not something in the t-case.

I知 having the same exact problem on my 03 dodge Dakota all tho I have found if I engage 4 wheel it sometimes goes away sometimes it doesn稚 tho

HeyYou 10-26-2020 08:36 PM


Originally Posted by Ztjohn (Post 3496696)
I知 having the same exact problem on my 03 dodge Dakota all tho I have found if I engage 4 wheel it sometimes goes away sometimes it doesn稚 tho

You wanna be in the Second Gen Dakota section, your front suspension isn't anything like our either. :D


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